Is anyone using Ground controls non-weldin weight jacks with linear Eibach springs? If so what front rate spring did you choose with what height spring?

I'm also wondering what the stock height(uncompressed)/rate is of our springs. Anyone know? More specifically for a 90-92 Z28.

 

HI, I have the jacks on my third gen race race car.
Stock fronts run about a 550# weight, but I could be totally wrong.
I'm running 1q000## front springs which are probably a bit much for the street but it's hard to tell with metal bushings and Konis.

I lightened my car considerable and was going to go to a softer spring. Email me if you want the 1000# fronts
Evan

 

I think you're right about the stock spring rate being around 550. I think 1000 would be a bit much for what I want at the moment. Think I'm gonna start off with a rate of about 800 for the front and 225 for the rear. Gonna talk to the guys at ground control first and see what their opinions are.

How much adjustment in height do you get and what unsprung height of spring do you get?

 

... I'm running the 850's in the front an 175 out back, all with the ride height adjusters from Ground Control.

 

PF Flyer,

How much of a drop did you go with(which exact springs did you choose.. p/n?) and how much travel do you have left? I'm worried if I want an approx. 2in drop that I wont have much suspension travel left with the weight jacks in there also.

 

i would call GC, those guys are there to help you get the right springs.

what do you plan to use your car for, 850# will be a STIFF ride, if this is a street only car, you may want a lower rate, like 750.

 

Mine is no longer a street car. I instruct with N.A.S.A. - VA in their Hi Perf Driving Events, so it's strictly my track car and trailered to events.

It's modelled after an A/Sedan car that I used to crew for.

No there is not a lot of travel with this setup. The springs are an ERS (Eibach Race Spring) with a 9.50" free length, 5.50" outside diamater and are rated at 850 lbs/". With the ride height adjusters, they are almost as tall as the stock springs.

Go to MY T/A photos and you'll be able to see them next to the WS6 springs.

 

PF Flyer,

Thanks for the pics and helps so far, much appreciated.

From looking at your pics it doesn't look like one could go to any smaller of a spring than the 9.5" free length you choose. When you have the adjusters all the way down how low is the car?

I have a line on some Belltech 2" drop spindles for our cars and was considering just using those in the front and ground controls weight jacks in the rear. Then later on adding weld-in weight jacks to the k-member for the front. This would work and give me more travel would it not?

I am going to call Ground Control today and see what they have to say but I'd still like your opinion on how well it's working for you.

 

... since I use the height adjusters to adjust for corner weights, they've not gone all the way down. They'd be on the rubber bumper on the A-arm by then.


Currently the way it's set-up, I'm at ~920 lbs on each of the front corners and 730 lbs on each of the rear corners. That's with a full tank of gas and w/o me. Total the car weights almost 3300 lbs.

My entire suspension is adjustable for whatever track I'm going to, be it high banks at Charlotte or the full course at Watkins Glen.

 

cool, thx for all your help PF Flyer.

 

If you know where we can buy the 2" drop spindles, please let me know. I'm very interested.

 

I've only found the one set of drop spindles. I know we've gone through all this on the board before but when I went to a local speedshop a couple months back the belltech drop spindles were still listed in the shops online ordering catalog. I told him they didn't sell them anymore for our cars so he called and the lady said they were special order only... guess that means bulk buys only??? I didnt ask more details than that.

 

Do you run set screws? I'm having problems with the front rising. I'm running 800# front, tokiko ilumina.

 

Set screws?

Is the front end rising the faster you go? It may just be the air coming in thru your radiator has no where to go. If the hood is not vented, that air will tend to help lighten your front end.

 

There are threaded holes in the collar for set screws. What I meant to say was over a period of time they self adjusted up.

 

Hey PF Flyer, I was at VIR 2 weeks ago with NASA at the HPDE. I saw your car. I even passed you on the road Monday morning on the way home. I had the red 85 IROC, car #71.

Maybe I'll see you at the track again sometime. I'm going to Watkins Glen with Trackmasters on Labor Day. Are you going by any chance?

I have considered these weight jacks for my car too. Maybe this winter.

 

z28cdoyle - yes, I remember that car. I think we talked about a front brake upgrade on the false grid on Sunday? No, I do the Glen in May. My next event could be Summit in Oct, definately Lime Rock in Nov.

subsonic - OK. No my set screws haven't moved since I set them using Loctite 'blue'

 

We did talk PF Flyer...small world huh?

BTW, I will be doing a front brake upgrade this winter. I'll see you around.

 

z28cdoyle - let me know which upgrade you're thinking of doing - 1LE, LS1 or Z06. I may be able to get you a good deal on the brake parts.

 

I am still considering my options but I plan to go the LS1 route.

I would be very interested in the parts and any technical expertise you can offer so I can avoid the trouble that often arises from a custom fabrication job.

Would you e mail me info on any parts you can offer? I have not purchased any parts yet so I need everything to do the swap.

I will wait to hear from you.

Chuck

 

... if you need to run 16" wheels, the LS1 brake upgrade is the way to go, or 1LE. If you have, or want to run 17" wheels, the Z06 brake upgrade is best.
I can get you the complete brake parts kit, new, for the LS1 or Z06 for about 500 bux, shipped. For the 1LE, I can get just about everything but the ever elusive pad carrier/caliper mounting bracket. Check out Spohn for those parts.