LCA relocation brackets...
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From: Hawaii
Car: 1984 Chevy Camaro
Engine: Built L98
Transmission: T-56 6 speed
LCA relocation brackets...
Okay I know that my LCAs have a really bad angle. Their pointing up pretty good. I was considering picking up a set of LCA relocation brackets. But heres the thing I was wondering. Whats the difference that you notice? I'm more thinking about turn wise not really off the line traction. Does it grip the road better? Thanks
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
i drove a lowered 4thgen LS1 TA with stock hwy gears and stock LCA settings.. then 2 months later with a diff rear that had the relocation brackets..
i cant comment on accel because of the gears and the time diff between runs, but i do know that the rear of the car felt more "solidly" connected to the ground around some high speed sweepers... before it felt alot lighter.. and hitting a bump had cause some more rear drift then it did after the swap..
id assume since the rear suspesion is almost identical, the same would apply.
i cant comment on accel because of the gears and the time diff between runs, but i do know that the rear of the car felt more "solidly" connected to the ground around some high speed sweepers... before it felt alot lighter.. and hitting a bump had cause some more rear drift then it did after the swap..
id assume since the rear suspesion is almost identical, the same would apply.
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
You may not "feel" a difference but it is there. Even if your car is not lowered (it is essetial when it is) you change the angle of the LCA. Changing the angle in the mannor that they do distributes more net force in the downward direction and less in the horizontal.
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From: Mostly in water off So. Cal
Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Install LCA relocators and it will turn different when you lower the rear angle. The lowered angle will cause the rear to be more loose.
High in the front, low in the rear causes roll oversteer.
Low in the front high in the rear causes roll understeer (Rear wheels/axle steers towards the corner holding the rear of the car inward to the corner)
High in the front, low in the rear causes roll oversteer.
Low in the front high in the rear causes roll understeer (Rear wheels/axle steers towards the corner holding the rear of the car inward to the corner)
Last edited by AGood2.8; Sep 11, 2003 at 08:30 PM.
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yes, agood hit it there, if you get the axle side of the LCA lower than the front, you will have roll oversteer. but whether that is worse the the lack of grip coming out of the corner is debatable.
btw, since you car is SO low, you might try to PM cheezx, ask about brackets for cars that are extremely lowered
btw, since you car is SO low, you might try to PM cheezx, ask about brackets for cars that are extremely lowered
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Precisely..... but on the other hand, forward bite = the exact opposite of "loose", by definition..... this discussion and the proponent of this idea is familiar ground.
A car rolling through the corner under no power (the circumstance where the LAC angle causes roll oversteer) is not the real world condition of use. The guy that can get back in the gas sooner will come off the corner harder, go down the straight (if any) faster, and have the opportunity to wear out his brakes sooner than the guy whose car merely coasts through the corner until he reaches a straight and can get back to the gas. He will also win the race.
A car rolling through the corner under no power (the circumstance where the LAC angle causes roll oversteer) is not the real world condition of use. The guy that can get back in the gas sooner will come off the corner harder, go down the straight (if any) faster, and have the opportunity to wear out his brakes sooner than the guy whose car merely coasts through the corner until he reaches a straight and can get back to the gas. He will also win the race.
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From: WI,USA
Car: 89 FORMULA 350, 91 Z28 Convertible
Engine: ls1, LB9
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Axle/Gears: S60/ 3.73
I was thinking about using these too. I would only care about the traction out of the hole and was thinking that they might be agood Idea. the car is stock hight but, I have the whole spohn T/A comming next week
my control arms are boxed and have the poly bushings in them.
my control arms are boxed and have the poly bushings in them.
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From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
yes, but there are also other ways to get the anti-squat that gives you the forward bite, without cause unwanted roll steer. shortening the torque arm comes to mind. i think idealy if you could move the body side mount of the LCA inward, you would reduce the roll steer, and you could still keep an LCA angle that gives you good anti-squate properties. that in combination with shortening the torque arm, would really allow you to get out of the corner harder.
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From: Mostly in water off So. Cal
Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Originally posted by Dewey316
i think idealy if you could move the body side mount of the LCA inward, you would reduce the roll steer, and you could still keep an LCA angle that gives you good anti-squate properties.
i think idealy if you could move the body side mount of the LCA inward, you would reduce the roll steer, and you could still keep an LCA angle that gives you good anti-squate properties.
RB, What kind of corner exit speed are you talking? 5-10 mph? You are not going to have traction (wheelhop) problems above that, or you had better change your shock dampen.
Last edited by AGood2.8; Sep 11, 2003 at 09:41 PM.
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From: n.reading ma
Car: black on red 92 rs
Engine: 305
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Originally posted by Dewey316
yes, but there are also other ways to get the anti-squat that gives you the forward bite, without cause unwanted roll steer. shortening the torque arm comes to mind. i think idealy if you could move the body side mount of the LCA inward, you would reduce the roll steer, and you could still keep an LCA angle that gives you good anti-squate properties. that in combination with shortening the torque arm, would really allow you to get out of the corner harder.
yes, but there are also other ways to get the anti-squat that gives you the forward bite, without cause unwanted roll steer. shortening the torque arm comes to mind. i think idealy if you could move the body side mount of the LCA inward, you would reduce the roll steer, and you could still keep an LCA angle that gives you good anti-squate properties. that in combination with shortening the torque arm, would really allow you to get out of the corner harder.
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From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
Originally posted by AGood2.8
Dewey, It wouldn't change a thing. Side angle has no relation to toe on a solid axle car. The geometry of the LCA still lengthens as it come paralell and causes the outside wheel to turn outward.
Dewey, It wouldn't change a thing. Side angle has no relation to toe on a solid axle car. The geometry of the LCA still lengthens as it come paralell and causes the outside wheel to turn outward.
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From: Mostly in water off So. Cal
Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Originally posted by bubbareno
So than it would Make more sence to get the adjustable torque arm verses one thats non adjustable rite?
So than it would Make more sence to get the adjustable torque arm verses one thats non adjustable rite?
Last edited by AGood2.8; Sep 11, 2003 at 10:38 PM.
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From: n.reading ma
Car: black on red 92 rs
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One more thing. iput new eibachs in the back not up front yet. An the car does seem a bit looser. could be because of not puting the relocaton bracket on?
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From: Mostly in water off So. Cal
Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Originally posted by Dewey316
yes, but moving the forward mount inward minomizes that effect.
yes, but moving the forward mount inward minomizes that effect.
By moving the front mounts inboard, you are in essence shorting the distance of the front mount point to the axle (same priciple as just running a shorter LCA) it will cause a greater change in travel geometry than if they are a paralell front to rear mount (like current application).
It will go more towards maximising the effect. The longer the LCA length front mount point to rear axle, the less effect it would have.
Edit: as a side note- for general trivia- Porsche has always engineered roll understeer into the *** heavy 911's to hold the rear inward in a corner.
Last edited by AGood2.8; Sep 11, 2003 at 10:02 PM.
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From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
point taken,
but with the arm angled like that, for every bit of vertical travel, the front/rear travel is reduced by the angel inside.
but with the arm angled like that, for every bit of vertical travel, the front/rear travel is reduced by the angel inside.
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From: Mostly in water off So. Cal
Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Originally posted by Dewey316
point taken,
but with the arm angled like that, for every bit of vertical travel, the front/rear travel is reduced by the angel inside.
point taken,
but with the arm angled like that, for every bit of vertical travel, the front/rear travel is reduced by the angel inside.
We are getting into very advanced setups (kind seen in open wheel cars) and do not apply to our basic 3rdgen solid axle suspensions- I wish I had those settings
Last edited by AGood2.8; Sep 11, 2003 at 10:24 PM.
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From: Mostly in water off So. Cal
Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Here's a setup I am strongly debating altering my vette to. Am checking on rules and acceptability in the different orginizations.
I can run coilovers with this setup.
http://www.guldstrand.com/5bar.htm
I can run coilovers with this setup.
http://www.guldstrand.com/5bar.htm
is roll oversteer inherently bad? will it actually reduce the cars road holding ability? Can the extra traction generated by the anti squat geometry overcome the disadvantages of roll oversteer (if there are disadvantages). Can you use shocks/springs/antiroll bars to tune the bad (roll oversteer) tendencies out? I'm looking at raising my car closer to stock ride height ( slightly lower ) but i have the relocateing brackets and figured i would still use them. I'm also considering a track link. What are your opinions?
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