Are Koni Yellows the harsh ones?
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: www.thirdgentech.com
Car: 2004 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T-56
Are Koni Yellows the harsh ones?
I am getting a set of used Koni Yellows and Eibach Pro-Kit springs with one mile (yes, 1 mile) on them before the car was thrown off a trailer and totaled.
I am concerned with them being too harsh and could not remember if the Reds or the Yellows were the harsher units.
I will check them over to make sure they were not damaged when the car came off the trailer.
Not bad for $500 total?
Thanks,
Dylan
I am concerned with them being too harsh and could not remember if the Reds or the Yellows were the harsher units.
I will check them over to make sure they were not damaged when the car came off the trailer.
Not bad for $500 total?

Thanks,
Dylan
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 896
Likes: 1
From: Coquitlam, BC
Car: 86\92 Mutant
Engine: 355CI 430HP
Transmission: T-5 with mods
Axle/Gears: 7.625", Eaton Posi, 3.73
The Koni Yellows are the Sport shocks. They have a stiffer valving than the Red Koni's...but not overly so. GET THEM!!!
Most people who complain of harsh Koni's do not bother to read the instructions. They install them, then immediately increase the standard settings.
Koni's are meant to set to Full Soft when new. Only after the intial breakin period of about 1,000 miles should any further adjsutment be made. They may ride at bit harsh at first but will soften after the break-in period.
Harsh ride is subjective. I have Koni Yellow and used to drive my car daily to work. Firm ride but certainly not Harsh...at least not to me.
Most people who complain of harsh Koni's do not bother to read the instructions. They install them, then immediately increase the standard settings.
Koni's are meant to set to Full Soft when new. Only after the intial breakin period of about 1,000 miles should any further adjsutment be made. They may ride at bit harsh at first but will soften after the break-in period.
Harsh ride is subjective. I have Koni Yellow and used to drive my car daily to work. Firm ride but certainly not Harsh...at least not to me.
Last edited by Chickenman35; Sep 29, 2003 at 01:36 PM.
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Posts: 1,059
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From: Woodbury, NJ
Car: 87' Iroc
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Whats a harsh ride? I found my Iroc to have a pretty unforgiving suspension, but this is probably due to the fact that I have 17 year old springs and shocks/struts in there. I like the fact my car doesn't "give"...nice and firm...
When I finally have the money I want to make sure I can keep the same type of suspension....
When I finally have the money I want to make sure I can keep the same type of suspension....
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Wow, 17 year old stuff? You're not on an unforgiving suspension, you're on a forgiving one- it's a weakling to every bump! It feels harsh because the tires have no control over anything... the car's falling into every bump in the road.
Once you get some new stuff on there, the ride might seem "easier", but it'll grip the road like nothing you've ever felt.
Until June, I had original '86 springs and bushings, 7 year old struts, and 5 year old air shocks. I did a complete rebuild with all ES poly bushings and SST lowering springs and KYB struts/shocks, and the ride did become smoother- like you, I was used to a harsh ride. But it's definately not luxury-car smooth. I took my import-driving friend for a ride, and he was amazed at two things- 1, he said it handled and 2, was smoother than, his old lowered acura integra. Apparently I did something right...
So harshness doesn't always equal performance...
Even if you can't afford Koni's now, put any shock/strut on your car. The difference will be amazing- and you'll probably be safer driving, too. (replace the front brake lines too!)
Thanks for the tip on the break-in procedure for the Koni's, CM35.
Once you get some new stuff on there, the ride might seem "easier", but it'll grip the road like nothing you've ever felt.
Until June, I had original '86 springs and bushings, 7 year old struts, and 5 year old air shocks. I did a complete rebuild with all ES poly bushings and SST lowering springs and KYB struts/shocks, and the ride did become smoother- like you, I was used to a harsh ride. But it's definately not luxury-car smooth. I took my import-driving friend for a ride, and he was amazed at two things- 1, he said it handled and 2, was smoother than, his old lowered acura integra. Apparently I did something right...
So harshness doesn't always equal performance...Even if you can't afford Koni's now, put any shock/strut on your car. The difference will be amazing- and you'll probably be safer driving, too. (replace the front brake lines too!)
Thanks for the tip on the break-in procedure for the Koni's, CM35.
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,059
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From: Woodbury, NJ
Car: 87' Iroc
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
The shocks/struts are fine, I checked that out before I bought the car (compared to the dying suspension on a 91' GTA I had looked at before I bought my camaro)
I think it's more the springs....but I mean, my car is still smoother then my bosses Explorer....it's more that the roads by me are not "flat" they are all distorted. So you feel the road and every little imperfection....compared to my moms Intrepid which coddles you on on the road.
I think it's more the springs....but I mean, my car is still smoother then my bosses Explorer....it's more that the roads by me are not "flat" they are all distorted. So you feel the road and every little imperfection....compared to my moms Intrepid which coddles you on on the road.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 896
Likes: 1
From: Coquitlam, BC
Car: 86\92 Mutant
Engine: 355CI 430HP
Transmission: T-5 with mods
Axle/Gears: 7.625", Eaton Posi, 3.73
Not externally adjustable if you mean by a small **** or screw.
To adjust the shock it must be fully extended. This engages the adjustment " dogs" Then you rotate the shaft ( or shock body ) which adjust the valving with a set of " Clicks".
When on the car, I usually just undo the lower mounting bolt, let the shock extend fully and then rotate the shock body. You must then push the shock body up about 1\4" to disengage the adjsutment "dogs" before you rotate the shock to install the mounting bolt.
To adjust the shock it must be fully extended. This engages the adjustment " dogs" Then you rotate the shaft ( or shock body ) which adjust the valving with a set of " Clicks".
When on the car, I usually just undo the lower mounting bolt, let the shock extend fully and then rotate the shock body. You must then push the shock body up about 1\4" to disengage the adjsutment "dogs" before you rotate the shock to install the mounting bolt.
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