With all this talk of upgrading brakes..
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From: Upland Pa
Car: Camaro Vert
Engine: 355 HSR
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 S60
With all this talk of upgrading brakes..
What is your favorite brake fulid? I happen to like Valvoline Sythetic. It gives the car a nice pedal feel and it is good up to about 500°.
Kat
Kat
Last edited by Kat; Oct 24, 2003 at 12:20 PM.
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
I used the Valvoline Syn, but I would have used pretty much what was on sale. If you change the fluid regularly, who cares what's in there, high perf or not.
Ed
Ed
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From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
Castrol SRF
but it is fairly expensive. and probably over kill on all our cars.
but it is fairly expensive. and probably over kill on all our cars.
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From: Greensburg, PA
Car: 85 IROC
Engine: 355
Transmission: Tremec 5 speed
I think I have something better, but you guys may not like where you have to go to get it.
I use Ford high performance brake fluid. It has a 550 degree dry boiling temp and costs a lot less than the racing brake fluids like AP. From what I remember it costs around $3.50 for a 12oz bottle.
For reference, the highest dry boiling temp I can remember seeing in a racing brake fluid is 570 degrees.
I use Ford high performance brake fluid. It has a 550 degree dry boiling temp and costs a lot less than the racing brake fluids like AP. From what I remember it costs around $3.50 for a 12oz bottle.
For reference, the highest dry boiling temp I can remember seeing in a racing brake fluid is 570 degrees.
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Yep, I.ve heard good things about the Ford stuff.....ya traitor..
Ed
Ed
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From: Portland, OR www.cascadecrew.org
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
here is a rundown of of brake fluid boiling points. go ahead and make your own descision. remeber wet boiling point is when the fluid has become saturated with water. if you bleed your brakes frequently, you shouldn't have to worry about the wet point.
Dry Boiling Point Wet Boiling Point Viscosity @ -40°C Viscosity @ 100°C
DOT 2 374°F N/A
DOT 3 401°F 284°F
DOT 4 446°F 311°F 1800 max 1.5 min
DOT 5 (silicone) 500°F 356°F
DOT 5.1 (non - silicone) 500°F 356°F
Castrol LMA DOT 3/4 446°F 311°F N/A N/A
Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 550°F 290°F N/A N/A
ATE Super Blue Racing 536°F 392°F N/A N/A
ATE TYP 200 536°F 392°F N/A N/A
Motul Racing RBF 600 593°F 420°F N/A N/A
Motul DOT 5.1 N/A 365°F N/A N/A
Motul DOT 4 473°F 316°F N/A N/A
Motul DOT 3 462°F N/A N/A N/A
Prospeed GS610 610°F 421°F 1525 2.5
Castrol SRF 590°F 518°F N/A N/A
Performance Friction 550°F 284°F N/A N/A
AP551 527°F 302°F N/A N/A
AP600
(not DOT approved and not compatible with any other fluids)
572°F 410°F N/A N/A
Ferodo DOT 4 446°F 311°F N/A N/A
Ferodo DOT 5.1 500°F 356°F N/A N/A
Wilwood 570 570°F N/A N/A N/A
Dry Boiling Point Wet Boiling Point Viscosity @ -40°C Viscosity @ 100°C
DOT 2 374°F N/A
DOT 3 401°F 284°F
DOT 4 446°F 311°F 1800 max 1.5 min
DOT 5 (silicone) 500°F 356°F
DOT 5.1 (non - silicone) 500°F 356°F
Castrol LMA DOT 3/4 446°F 311°F N/A N/A
Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 550°F 290°F N/A N/A
ATE Super Blue Racing 536°F 392°F N/A N/A
ATE TYP 200 536°F 392°F N/A N/A
Motul Racing RBF 600 593°F 420°F N/A N/A
Motul DOT 5.1 N/A 365°F N/A N/A
Motul DOT 4 473°F 316°F N/A N/A
Motul DOT 3 462°F N/A N/A N/A
Prospeed GS610 610°F 421°F 1525 2.5
Castrol SRF 590°F 518°F N/A N/A
Performance Friction 550°F 284°F N/A N/A
AP551 527°F 302°F N/A N/A
AP600
(not DOT approved and not compatible with any other fluids)
572°F 410°F N/A N/A
Ferodo DOT 4 446°F 311°F N/A N/A
Ferodo DOT 5.1 500°F 356°F N/A N/A
Wilwood 570 570°F N/A N/A N/A
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From: Montgomery, AL
Car: 1985 Trans Am
The nice thing about the ford fluid is the metal container. Brake fluids can take in water through the container itself, as plastic is a porus material (especially in hot/humid environments). And it's cheap.
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From: Greensburg, PA
Car: 85 IROC
Engine: 355
Transmission: Tremec 5 speed
Actually, Ford has switched to a plastic container for their brake fluid. All the stuff I have bought has been in the plastic bottle since last summer.
Hey...wait a minute...plastic is porous?
Is it really? I have never heard this.
Hey...wait a minute...plastic is porous?
Is it really? I have never heard this.
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From: northeast ohio
Car: 2000 astro
Engine: 4.3
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 7.5 with 3.42 gears
Originally posted by z28cdoyle
Actually, Ford has switched to a plastic container for their brake fluid. All the stuff I have bought has been in the plastic bottle since last summer.
Hey...wait a minute...plastic is porous?
Is it really? I have never heard this.
Actually, Ford has switched to a plastic container for their brake fluid. All the stuff I have bought has been in the plastic bottle since last summer.
Hey...wait a minute...plastic is porous?
Is it really? I have never heard this.
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From: Montgomery, AL
Car: 1985 Trans Am
Plastic is less dense than metal, which allows water vapor to transfer in and out of the container. The exception is that hard plastic that a lot of late model fuel lines and stuff are made out of. Chevy High Performance brought this up a while back,(obvioulsly before they changed the containers) they felt bad about reccomending ford fluid, but their main basis for this was the old (metal) container and the price.
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From: Woodland Hills, CA USA
Car: Yes...
Engine: Last time I checked...
Transmission: See "Engine"...
I've brought the subject of the plastic container up on this board before and some people thought I was nuts.
Baer also recommends only buying fluid that comes in a metal container since the plastic most bottles are made of will allow moisture in over time.
Baer also recommends only buying fluid that comes in a metal container since the plastic most bottles are made of will allow moisture in over time.
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From: Grand Island, NY
Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
The technical term used is water vapor transmission thru the material. Most containers are made of some form of (PE) Polyethelene useuslly HDPE. PE (thickness dependent)DEFINATELY is permabable to water vapor. However, bottles could be manufactured with multiple layers, One of which is sandwitched inbetween the other layers that is not succeptable to WVT. However, Cost per container becomes a factor.
Last edited by novass; Oct 28, 2003 at 09:43 AM.
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From: Victoria, Texas
Car: 90 RS
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3:23
How do you get the fluid from the contaner to the master cylinder without exposing it to the atmosphere? Also most master cylinder covers are plastic with a vent hole. Good info to know tough but I think that there is such a small benifit from a metal can that it is like brushing your teeth before a race to save weight.
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by MightyMouse
How do you get the fluid from the contaner to the master cylinder without exposing it to the atmosphere? Also most master cylinder covers are plastic with a vent hole. Good info to know tough but I think that there is such a small benifit from a metal can that it is like brushing your teeth before a race to save weight.
How do you get the fluid from the contaner to the master cylinder without exposing it to the atmosphere? Also most master cylinder covers are plastic with a vent hole. Good info to know tough but I think that there is such a small benifit from a metal can that it is like brushing your teeth before a race to save weight.
the plastic of the master cyl resorver doesnt let much water thru.
there is a seal and a diaphram to keep air out, even when the displacement inside the system changes.
the fluid does draw water out of the air, but its not instant.... so while you shouldnt leave it exposed for a long peroid of time, taking the cover off to check it and change/fill it isnt a issue....
and the system does let a lil in.... thats why you SHOULD change the brake fluid every 2 years or so... i usually do it whenever i bleed my brakes since it isnt really any more work when you have speedbleeders...
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From: Montgomery, AL
Car: 1985 Trans Am
Well, I know that the metal container thing was a big enough deal to the military that they changed the specifications of brake fluid containers from plastic to metal. All the fluid we get at the shop is in 1/2 gallon metal containers now, and when they made the change they even told us to dispose of the fluid in plastic containers no matter how new it was.
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