I'm getting ready to replace my front brake pads and rotors in the next week or two. 1991 3.1 RS. Is there anything I should be aware of? I have heard that I should replace the bearings as well. Again, anything out of the ordinary?
Not looking to upgrade, but any suggestions on pads and rotors? I've heard from others that ceramic pads need to be very hot to work...is this true? Should I stick to semi metalic?
Not looking to upgrade, but any suggestions on pads and rotors? I've heard from others that ceramic pads need to be very hot to work...is this true? Should I stick to semi metalic?
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If you are replacing the rotors, 9 out of 10 they do not come with bearings in them. You will need to get the bearings as well as grease for them. No preference on type of pads myself, so long as they work and I do not have to do the yaba daba do foot pads.
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ebmiller88
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Get a Haynes or Chiltons manual and you'll be fine. I strongly recommend replacing the calipers and hoses while you're in there. Odds are they haven't been replaced in a LONG time. Flush your fluid also.
Ceramics just dust less, they don't need to be hot. I used Raybestos QS Ceramics on my wife's Accord and they aer a great pad.
Ed
Ceramics just dust less, they don't need to be hot. I used Raybestos QS Ceramics on my wife's Accord and they aer a great pad.
Ed
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Don't try carbon-metallic pads. It increased my stopping distance noticably. They suck IMO.
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GTA4ME
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Go with Raybestos Ceramic Pads. They work good and don't leave a brake dust residue on your rims!

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Speaking of QS's, I'm putting a set on my old lady's Impala this weekend. Cost about 60 bucks...I was heading to the bank today, and those F'in PG's on the Impala where getting on my nerves, with the low speed squealing. awww
Few things that pop in my head about the rotor swap; Take special attention to the preload on the bearings. Off hand I don't have the specs, and if you don't have a inch pound torque wrench you'll need to try the spin and torque method. Someone here can probably feel you in.
I'm not even sure if lateral runout is an issue with 3rd gens? I know my Vette does (hours cleaning hubs!!! to get it < .003)
I guess the runout relies on the bearings with 3rd gens, and if there sloppy then so will the runout.
Agreed with flushing out the brake fluid. It's so over looked!!! A lot of times people blame brake fade on the rotors or pads, when it turns out there brake fluid is so contaminated that it boils at a very low temp, and you’re lucky to get one firm 60-0 stop out of them. (yes to DOT 3 or 4, no to DOT 5)
Ron
Few things that pop in my head about the rotor swap; Take special attention to the preload on the bearings. Off hand I don't have the specs, and if you don't have a inch pound torque wrench you'll need to try the spin and torque method. Someone here can probably feel you in.
I'm not even sure if lateral runout is an issue with 3rd gens? I know my Vette does (hours cleaning hubs!!! to get it < .003)
I guess the runout relies on the bearings with 3rd gens, and if there sloppy then so will the runout.
Agreed with flushing out the brake fluid. It's so over looked!!! A lot of times people blame brake fade on the rotors or pads, when it turns out there brake fluid is so contaminated that it boils at a very low temp, and you’re lucky to get one firm 60-0 stop out of them. (yes to DOT 3 or 4, no to DOT 5)
Ron
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Just thought I'd let you guys know I got a killer price on a set of bosch ceramic brake pads from a seller on ebay. I got the 1le style pads for the front for $65 and the pbr pads for the rear for about $60. I looked up the bosch ceramic pads on checker auto's website, and just the fronts were $145 a set! The guy's ebay ID is ecaronline.