Is it TOO LATE for subframe connectors?!
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 796
Likes: 88
From: Northwest Chicago Suburbs
Car: 1991 Camaro Z-28 (Durango R/T)
Engine: 383 L98 W/ HSR
Transmission: 700R4 Tuned Shift 2600 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10Bolt Posi W/ Al Cover, Disks
Is it TOO LATE for subframe connectors?!
I have owned my camaro for about a year now and the pasenger side door has always been a little difficult to close all of the way. Well, new it is getting even harder, What a lot of my firends tell me is that my frame is just flexing and the doors are not lining up right. Of what my research has showed me sub frames are supposed to stop this flex from happening but if the frame is alredy slightly bent is it going to be too late or can it be bent back or at least stoped from beign bent any farther. The car is a dayly driver for now but i also do drag race it and as long as it is reasonably safe idont care about ride quolity as long as it can help my quarter mile times.
So what would every one suggest to me to stangthen up my chassis for my door problem and just to be better for dragracing in gerneral.
The attachment shows my car that was stock i now have full exhaust will that also cause any clearence issues with the subframe connectors or other strengthening mods?
Thanks for all of the respenses i know you are all great at giving a relativly new kid a good push in the right direction,
Eli Jacobson
Raptere
Thanks again!
So what would every one suggest to me to stangthen up my chassis for my door problem and just to be better for dragracing in gerneral.
The attachment shows my car that was stock i now have full exhaust will that also cause any clearence issues with the subframe connectors or other strengthening mods?
Thanks for all of the respenses i know you are all great at giving a relativly new kid a good push in the right direction,
Eli Jacobson
Raptere
Thanks again!
Senior Member
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 652
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From: Montgomery, AL
Car: 1985 Trans Am
I doubt your frame is bent. It's probably the door hinge pins being worn out. that's why it's hard to close all of the way, because the door sags until you shove it closed then it moves up onto the door striker bolt.
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 311
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From: las vegas
Car: '92 droptop bird
Engine: 5.7L,mild cam etc.
Transmission: modded 700r4 w/2600
the way i have done it costs extra but worth it,i use a freinds bodyshop,put the car on the frame machine to spec. then install the jegster subframe connectors,i guess you can tell i like jegs parts........
Thread Starter
Senior Member




Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 796
Likes: 88
From: Northwest Chicago Suburbs
Car: 1991 Camaro Z-28 (Durango R/T)
Engine: 383 L98 W/ HSR
Transmission: 700R4 Tuned Shift 2600 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10Bolt Posi W/ Al Cover, Disks
Thanks a lot for the info ever one which specific brands of SFCs would you all suggest highest qolity and most proce efficent, sry for the basic questions havnt done a lot with chasis stuff.
Is there any thing else that would really help my 1/4 mile times too or just help the car that i should get?
Thanks again,
Eli Jacobson
raptere
Is there any thing else that would really help my 1/4 mile times too or just help the car that i should get?
Thanks again,
Eli Jacobson
raptere
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iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,204
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
You might consider getting some lower control arm relocation mounts too. If you're gonna spend the time putting on SFC's might as well have those weld'd in also.
They'll let you adjust the angle of your lca's so you can hopefully get a little better traction.
They'll let you adjust the angle of your lca's so you can hopefully get a little better traction.
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Thread Starter
Senior Member




Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 796
Likes: 88
From: Northwest Chicago Suburbs
Car: 1991 Camaro Z-28 (Durango R/T)
Engine: 383 L98 W/ HSR
Transmission: 700R4 Tuned Shift 2600 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10Bolt Posi W/ Al Cover, Disks
thanks for the reasurance pablo, but how hard and what do i need to change solve this problem? Also is it very important i do this rite away or does it not really matter?
Member

Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
From: SW Ohio
Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27 BW 9-bolt
Here's a tech article that appeared in High Performance Pontiac about how to replace the pins and bushings.
http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...2hpp_fristaid/
I would recommend getting around to fixing it eventually. The door hinges in my '83 S-10 beater truck have oval shaped holes from nobody ever replacing the bushings, and those doors aren't even especially heavy. Eventually I'm going to either have to weld it up and redrill it or replace the hinge.
http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...2hpp_fristaid/
I would recommend getting around to fixing it eventually. The door hinges in my '83 S-10 beater truck have oval shaped holes from nobody ever replacing the bushings, and those doors aren't even especially heavy. Eventually I'm going to either have to weld it up and redrill it or replace the hinge.
Thread Starter
Senior Member




Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 796
Likes: 88
From: Northwest Chicago Suburbs
Car: 1991 Camaro Z-28 (Durango R/T)
Engine: 383 L98 W/ HSR
Transmission: 700R4 Tuned Shift 2600 Stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10Bolt Posi W/ Al Cover, Disks
thanks a lot that article explains every thing
Sweet!
Sweet!
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