I just ordered a set of spohns Lca relocation brackets, anyone got any good installation advice?

I also plan on getting the lakewood Lca's. I hope this will pick up my 60 ft times. Plus I am going from 2.72's to 3.73's on my posi rear.

 

Just follow the instructions. Mine were installed a few years back and I cannot quit remeber how to do it but I am pretty sure you just bolt it up to the exesting LCA holes and then just weld where it tells you to (around the perimeter of it). Here is a pic if that helps. Kinda hard to see the welds but you can get an idea.

 

thanks for the pic.

Did you notice any difference after the install?

 

i got the bmr lca relocators. they are the bolt in ones. I think that is the best bet , then their is no chance or welding them in wrong and its less work too.

 

Well not really because I got the car lowered, and got the wheels and tires put on at the same time. So my first test drive was with all of that stuff. I can say that I barely get a second gear chirp, but then again I am limited by the massive power of the 305 TBI.

 

Make sure to measure before you weld them in so that both sides are positioned the same.

 

Thanks guys for the info. The best I can tell, everyone is picking up a tenth in there 60ft time. Is that about right?

 

Get the Global West ones and you don't have to worry about that.

 

The ones from spohn are already ordered and probably shipped out. They look like a good product, I guess I will see for myself.

 

Dont the spohn brackets bolt in first, and then you weld them?

If they bolt in first, then they should be in the right place. Or am I wrong?

 

You are right. Even if you aren't sure you can bolt a lower control arm to it and swing it up and mark it with a pencil. That way you know it is in the right spot.

 

Sounds great, I cant wait to get them. Now I just need to order the lakewood LCA's.

thanks.

 

Id get an adjustable LCA...Not a fixed one... On mine and many others with spohn LCAbrackets from what I read/experienced the hole geometry is OFF and thus you need to be able to correct it...Otherwise you run the risk of negatively affecting your pinion angle..

 

I thought that the adjustable ones were mainly for lowered cars. Mine is at stock ride height. Shouldnt it be ok with the fixed LCA's.

 

Get the back end up in the air with the front wheels chocked. If you're lucky you can remove the rear pivots of the LCA's without changing the axle's relationship to the car. One bolt will go through the original pivot bolt hole and the bracket. It's lined up right when you either push it all the way forward or back with the pivot bolt in it (I forgot which, but it's fairly obvious when you do it), when it's right the distance between the front pivot, the original pivot and the 2 new pivot holes is the same. It's much more important to get the 2 sides the same then to get them lined up perfectly though. Scribe the outline on the original bracket where you're going to weld, pull it apart, grind that area clean on the original bracket on the axle, reassemble and weld. It's really much easier then it sounds, and with the heavy plate that everything is made of you can run a big heavy bead without worrying about burning through, even with a stick welder.

As far as performance… I feel they're worthless on the street or road racing, even on a car that is lowered quite a bit. At the dragstrip they'll hurt your times with radials or drag radials (they'll hit and grab HARD off the line, but your suspension will unload about 10' out or so, unless you've got no power to start with), but work well on a car running SOFT tires like real slicks. I've run low 1.7's 60's on 275 40 17 GSC's with a stock suspension and air bags in the rear springs with a manual tranny, and wasn't able to manage better then a 1.94 (all the runs were in the 1.94-2.11 range) with the brackets using either of the lowered holes. It would hook so hard off the line that it felt like someone hit the back of your helmet with a brick, and then start spinning 10-20' out.

 

Thanks crossfire for the advice. I think I will try them and see what happens.

thanks

 

What's different about the gw ones from spohn or bmr?

 

does any one have any better pics? or even of the bmr ones

 

the GW ones bolt to 2 locations, kinda around the shock mount so that it's easier to line up.

Pictures of what?

 

bluegrassz, please let everyone know if you notice any improvment after the install. I considered buying them. Are you going to do your mods 1 at a time? Doing them 1 at a time would be ideal to see what improvments they make. Does anyone else think they make a difference for a car that is not lowered? The probably make a little difference, right? Are they worth the time and $? Im sure a lot of other people are asking the same question. Id love to hear any other opinions of people who have them. Good luck bluegrassz!

 

Oh, don't get me wrong, they make a big difference, it's just not a difference that is really usable by most people. You will feel a big difference, but you won't be able to run faster with it unless you're running soft slicks at the track

 

Yeah, I will post the results. Although, I am going from 2.73's to 3.73's at the same time. If the track was open now, I would do a few test passes. Although, I can put the LCA's back in the stock location and see what happens with the 3.73's. Then put them in say the bottom hole and see it that pics my 60ft times up.

I will try this and see what happens. I will post the results. I think the track will be opening in march.

 

Not sure if these are of interest... I have posted them before...




These are the Spohn brackets. My car is lowered and the both of the bolt holes matched up fine with the lca's without any adjustment required (i.e. stock length). I did manage to pull a 1.96 60ft on street tires (5 speed car) which is a considerable improvement for me anyway. I look forward to using some drag radials at some point this year.

-Schultzy

 

What were your 60ft times before the relocation brackets?

 

Nice welds (Mine were the first things I ever welded, and did them with flux core, making them not he prettiest welds I've ever made).

Like I said, I ran low 1.7's on radials in my 6speed car before then, best I could do with them was mid/high 1.9's.