best sfc?
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From: Point Marion PA.
Car: 1982 CAMARO;
Engine: 1985 LB9;
Transmission: T-5/
I am currently looking into this for the same Purpose. Canyon Carver application, I Have looked a Sphon, S&W, Hotchkis, Mac, competition engineering, South Side Machine, Jegsters, Alston. They all Have their good and Bad Points, I will Reply With my results and comparison as soon as research is done.
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
that would be great so far from what i've been reading sphon is great for the track and hotchkis is a great all round sfc
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From: Point Marion PA.
Car: 1982 CAMARO;
Engine: 1985 LB9;
Transmission: T-5/
I like the Hotchkis, but the fact that they dont triangulate the front togeather bothers me. These are the ones I preferr At this moment. The Hotchkis, Sphon ,competition engineering one of these Three Will Make it on to my car.
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
spohn seems to be a good choice, i like the way it has lots of room and people seem to be satisfyied with it
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From: Point Marion PA.
Car: 1982 CAMARO;
Engine: 1985 LB9;
Transmission: T-5/
Ok It is to late and my vision is getting blury So I am just going to make the Smart Decision and Say The Spohn will be what I go With, I will Just make sure to Weld them In The Entire Length Of them Every Where.
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From: Las Vegas, NV
Car: 1990 Iroc-Z
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
No no don't do that. You have to space out the welds or it will be a weak weld-bond. THe welds should be about 1" each and 3 to 4 inches apart. There is a lot of variance, room for preference so just make sure to space them out and don't make them too long.
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From: Point Marion PA.
Car: 1982 CAMARO;
Engine: 1985 LB9;
Transmission: T-5/
Originally posted by D Stroy H8
No no don't do that. You have to space out the welds or it will be a weak weld-bond. THe welds should be about 1" each and 3 to 4 inches apart. There is a lot of variance, room for preference so just make sure to space them out and don't make them too long.
No no don't do that. You have to space out the welds or it will be a weak weld-bond. THe welds should be about 1" each and 3 to 4 inches apart. There is a lot of variance, room for preference so just make sure to space them out and don't make them too long.
Thanks for catching that. I am very tired and what I ment to say was Tack weld them the length of the SFC but didn't Come out that Way. Any brand of SFC's will make 100 % improvement for body stiffness on 3rd Gen car. Just make sure you have the ones that require welding. I have the Sphon SFC's on my car.
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
Originally posted by DJP87Z28
Any brand of SFC's will make 100 % improvement for body stiffness on 3rd Gen car. Just make sure you have the ones that require welding. I have the Sphon SFC's on my car.
Any brand of SFC's will make 100 % improvement for body stiffness on 3rd Gen car. Just make sure you have the ones that require welding. I have the Sphon SFC's on my car.
Like I said All SFC's are bacically the same. however Spohn are of a very good quality. I am the original owner of my IROC and after the install two years ago the car is now tighter then when it was new.
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From: Moving to non emission state
Car: 86 Camaro
Engine: L98 350 bore .060 out, Carb power
Transmission: slusher 700 beatbox
i used hotchiks subs in my camaro, i should have done BMR though. have you looked at theirs yet?
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
I like the sphons because you can stitch weld them down the length of the sub frame. Many others only weld at the fron and rear mouting spots of the sub frame. Any sub frame connector will be a drastic improvement but I like the fact that the spohns will help distribute the stress throughout the entire length of the car and not just in 2 places per side.
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
Originally posted by Kontrax
i used hotchiks subs in my camaro, i should have done BMR though. have you looked at theirs yet?
i used hotchiks subs in my camaro, i should have done BMR though. have you looked at theirs yet?
bmr huh where would i go about finding these?
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,748
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by kretos
bmr huh where would i go about finding these?
bmr huh where would i go about finding these?
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 5,225
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From: Buffalo, NY
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 427 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 Bolt / 3.73 TrueTrac
Any of you guys start getting wheel hop after the install of your sfc's? Read something about that a while ago.
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From: Lehigh Valley, PA
Car: 00 T/A Firehawk
Engine: 346ci LS1
Transmission: MN6
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LSD
very informative post guys!! Thanks a lot for the research info! I've been really looking into SFCs lately and I've been leaning towards the Spohn ones as well, and this more or less confirmed my feelings. I hope to be ordering them soon!
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
Originally posted by IROCThe5.7L
Any of you guys start getting wheel hop after the install of your sfc's? Read something about that a while ago.
Any of you guys start getting wheel hop after the install of your sfc's? Read something about that a while ago.
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
Originally posted by WWasem
very informative post guys!! Thanks a lot for the research info! I've been really looking into SFCs lately and I've been leaning towards the Spohn ones as well, and this more or less confirmed my feelings. I hope to be ordering them soon!
very informative post guys!! Thanks a lot for the research info! I've been really looking into SFCs lately and I've been leaning towards the Spohn ones as well, and this more or less confirmed my feelings. I hope to be ordering them soon!
looks like i'll be getting the spohn though
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From: Moving to non emission state
Car: 86 Camaro
Engine: L98 350 bore .060 out, Carb power
Transmission: slusher 700 beatbox
Originally posted by ShiftyCapone
They don't make them anymore. You will have to find a set on ebay or classifieds. Look for bolt in ones that way you know they haven't ben welded on and ripped off.
They don't make them anymore. You will have to find a set on ebay or classifieds. Look for bolt in ones that way you know they haven't ben welded on and ripped off.
dont make them anymore?! www.bmrfabrication.com thats where you find them. awesome company. hmmm i dont see any in the 3rd gen page... hell, i bet if you mail them they will sell some to you
i just got some for my brothers 4thgen hawk. they are THICK. i was very happy with them. and never buy bolt in's. you want the weld in connectors. unless he was saying get the bolt ons and weld them in... Last edited by Kontrax; Feb 19, 2004 at 06:56 AM.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,748
Likes: 560
From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by Kontrax
dont make them anymore?! www.bmrfabrication.com thats where you find them. awesome company
dont make them anymore?! www.bmrfabrication.com thats where you find them. awesome company
Just check out that site. No sub frames to be found for 3rd gens. My buddy found some on ebay after a few phone calls to bmr for varification. They said they don't make them anymore.
Last edited by ShiftyCapone; Feb 19, 2004 at 06:57 AM.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,748
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by Kontrax
do you know why?! im gonna have to mail them demanding reproduction.
do you know why?! im gonna have to mail them demanding reproduction.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,748
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by Kontrax
unless he was saying get the bolt ons and weld them in...
unless he was saying get the bolt ons and weld them in...
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From: Moving to non emission state
Car: 86 Camaro
Engine: L98 350 bore .060 out, Carb power
Transmission: slusher 700 beatbox
i agree. bolt ins are a waste of time. dang, i cant believe they dont make them anymore. its rediculous that they make everything else BUT subs for 3rd gens. they make TONS of forthgen stuff. if i ever get a 4thgen, thats the 1st place im going
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 13,748
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by Kontrax
i agree. bolt ins are a waste of time. dang, i cant believe they dont make them anymore. its rediculous that they make everything else
i agree. bolt ins are a waste of time. dang, i cant believe they dont make them anymore. its rediculous that they make everything else
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Posts: 3,383
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
i found a set of bmr but they were welded in and ripped out
lol
not gonna even bother, i think spohn will be getting some cash from me
lol
not gonna even bother, i think spohn will be getting some cash from me
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From: Moving to non emission state
Car: 86 Camaro
Engine: L98 350 bore .060 out, Carb power
Transmission: slusher 700 beatbox
AWESOME NEWS! i mailed BMR and they said they are going to start making them in the summer when they release their version of the tubular k member and a arms for 3rdgens! HA! i told you they wouldnt stop making them. now i have to tear out my hotchiks and get the BMR's. my advice is wait till they re-release their subs and get those.
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From: Moving to non emission state
Car: 86 Camaro
Engine: L98 350 bore .060 out, Carb power
Transmission: slusher 700 beatbox
well frames are pretty much a like with the welds and such. some weld to different areas of the unibody. i just prefer the bmr products because of the price and the fact my whole car is bmr. they have a nice selection of suspension parts and thats all they do. they were working on an 8 second turbo camaro and used all their own stuff on it. they also offer xtreme parts which are larger then all the other aftermarket products offered. plus, their sales reps are really nice. see for yourself at www.bmrfabrication.com ive never had a problem with anything they have sent me. my brother also uses bmr on his 95 hawk and loves them as well. if your going to get subs, get the boxed. i feel they are more stable then the tubular versions. people have said you lose ground clearence, i havent lost any nor has my brother. maybe you do with other companies boxed versions.....not sure. check them out though, im sure you will like what they have to offer.
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Posts: 255
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From: indiana
Car: 91 Z-28
Engine: 420 sbc
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt/4.10 gears
check out the kenny brown super subs. they are of excellent quality and also really lightweight.(13 lbs per side i think). they are tubular which is way stronger than square tubing and they box in the control arm mounts. best suspension mod you can do if you have t-tops.
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Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Moving to non emission state
Car: 86 Camaro
Engine: L98 350 bore .060 out, Carb power
Transmission: slusher 700 beatbox
KB is very nice. i disagree with you on the boxed idea. i think boxed is much stronger then the round subs.
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
personally i like the tubular ones but the box ones should be stronger.
i'll call around and see what i can find out
i'll call around and see what i can find out
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From: Point Marion PA.
Car: 1982 CAMARO;
Engine: 1985 LB9;
Transmission: T-5/
Originally posted by 92RSZ
check out the kenny brown super subs. they are of excellent quality and also really lightweight.(13 lbs per side i think). they are tubular which is way stronger than square tubing and they box in the control arm mounts. best suspension mod you can do if you have t-tops.
check out the kenny brown super subs. they are of excellent quality and also really lightweight.(13 lbs per side i think). they are tubular which is way stronger than square tubing and they box in the control arm mounts. best suspension mod you can do if you have t-tops.
either design is equally as strong for the load that the F-body chassis places on them. Because the F-body uses a control arm/torque-arm combination, very little lateral loading is placed on the control arms themselves. The torque-arm takes the lateral loading while the control arms are subjected mainly to a "compression" loading as the rear tries to push them forward into the chassis under acceleration. While an excessive lateral load would dictate the use of stronger(laterally) rectangular tubing, compression loading is much easier to handle and round tubing(of appropriate size)is more than sufficient. Bottom line: if you are an overkill nut and are willing to spend a little more then go with the boxed design, otherwise save a little money and get the tubular arms.
Last edited by MTPFI-MAF; Feb 21, 2004 at 04:17 PM.
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Posts: 3,383
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
the way i look at things is do it right the first time, if you need to kill a rat get a shotgun,not a stick.
in other words, i tend to go with overkill
in other words, i tend to go with overkill
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From: Dayton, O.
Car: 91 Camaro Z28
Engine: LS7
Transmission: M12/T56
Axle/Gears: 3.79
I have the bmr's on my car, found a set that was bolted in and had them welded in. They're thick, but the arm that came off and went above the y-pipe was hitting the y-pipe so I had to have them welded to the exhaust to get rid of the rattle. Now it makes some noise at real low rpms but nothing that makes the car any less driveable than my other mods ha.
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