does anyone know of anything that will help me get a little better traction short of moving the engine and drive train back a foot or more? Would the after market torque are help any?, is there something else that would help?

Im running a 427 small block chevy, with a 700R4, 4.11 gears with a detroit locker.

~Nick~

um...suspension work...tires....moving the engine/trans back a foot seems a bit extreme....

I'm fighting traction probs myself, but moving engine back is the wrong idea. That's great for a tube chassis car thats still being build, but for a door slammer no way. Too much work cutting out the floor pan, firewall, adding a full cage, tube type engine crossmember, etc etc

You need to look for the real fix not a bandaid.

Weight transfer and placement

non flexing chassis and suspension

sticky tires

Remove as much nose weight as you can, add move more weight to the rear if you can.. (glass hood, battery in rear, alum engine parts, etc ect)

Bind free front A- arm bushings, no front sway bar, "drag" type front shocks, "drag" type rear shocks

Sub frame conn., poly lower controll arm bushings, aftermarket lower controll arms, lower controll arm brackets, stronger flex free aftermarket torque arm, poly TQ arm mount/bushing, set pinion angle right so it's at 0* when you launch (to do that it has to be -2-4* sitting still)

Tires, tires tires, and tires again. Just a point.. I went from BFG t/a street tires to yoko avid s/t street tires. Both the same size, and my 60' times went down .03 sec.

Later i'm gonna try some nitto 555R drag radials. Those should drop my 60' atlest .2-.3 sec, being i'm still spinning the yokos for alittle over 60' and rolling into the throttle too

If you have to keep a "street tire" on it then look into the drag radials like the nitto, BFG, etc

If it's not a street car then look into like M/T streets, or hoosier quicktimes

If you don't race in a D.O.T tire class go all out and get a set of slicks

Pretty much what nightrider said. IMO running that 427sbc with goobs of torque, combined with the 700r4's deep first gear and 4.11 cogs your in a extreme case of pushing any traction to the limits. That's an awuful lotta power to send to a granny first gear set-up and I bet your shift light comes on about as soon as youo react to the tree turning green.