Just wondering what tire gives the most traction at the strip. The car in question weighs 2550 wet and has 600 hp at the crank. 15x10 wheels in the back currently with street tires measuring 295 50 15. Currently the car traps at low 120's on the street tires and spins them through 1st, 2nd and the first part of third. 60 fts are inconsistant and anywhere from 1.7 - 2+ seconds. It goes through the traps just shy of redline in fourth (5 speed manual tranny). There is little room for any bigger of a tire, diameter or width. We're pretty much set on MT's, but we aren't sure whether we'd be better off with a drag radial, an ET street, or an ET drag. Any opinions on this, MT or other??



Thanks in advance

 

Let me get this straight....

You have a car that you have setup to that magnitude of performance level for strictly drag racing and with all that knowledge and talent you somewhere along the lines or after the fact have lost the ability to pick a tire?

You my friend are full of crap. Take your Mustang bragging stories elsewhere.

 

Whoa, easy there killer. I didn't realize someone had appointed you as the all mighty gatekeeper of TGO when you registered a month ago. I'm just looking for some opinions on track only tires, not a tounge lashing from some newb who thinks he's hot **** for some unknown reason. Hows about you find somewhere else on this forum to waste space with your presence other than my thread.



For the record, this car is NOT setup "for strictly drag racing". In fact it is just the opposite. It's a street car and is actually kind of embarising at the strip because of how hard it is to launch on street tires, hence the reason for this post. And by the way, we drag race strictly for fun, so I am by no means a pro and never claimed to be. Not sure where whats-his-name got that from anyways. I'm just looking for a tire that can hook up this power.

Opinions on TIRES are appreciated.

 

28x10.50 MT ET streets. They should help a great deal. why buy drag radials for the track when slicks work better?

 

Bit more than a month ago actually He's been here a while and does know his stuff.

 

Just what type of car are we keeping so secret that weighs 2550 lbs?
Edit: and as for tires, what is anyone else at the track you frequent running that works.

 

Judging by his sig, I assume he is talking about the cobra kit.

BTW Dean, we are going to have to change your name to RTFCFNG, you freakin' newbie.

 

You want to go as tall as you can fit for the most rubber on the track. With that I'm running the same size rim on my car and ran Hoosier quik Time Pro's 28x11.5 for 3 years with excellent results and longevity unitl '04 with the new mill and stock suspension, it was pushing these tires to the limit. I switched to M/T with tubes after the the first month in '04 I had the Hoosiers wore out. These M/T are 29.5x9 and worked great and required a very very small burnout. If I see smoke coming off the tires the tires are too hot, I acutually had the best consistent traction just cleaning the tires and pulling out as soon as any smoke was seen.

But the taller tire hurt performance since I was not geared for that tall of meat and now that I have the suspension worked out I am going back to the shorter tire.

Stay away from drag radials, you wont be in any better position than your in right now with on again off again traction issues unless you hve the chasis and suspension tweaked to the max.

1 bad thing about M/T and the reason I went with a inner tubes when I bought them is the fact they have a very thin sidewall. I've heard from numerious racers you can actually see air bubbles coming through the sidewall if you check for seal. All the Hoosiers I've run have stayed aired up no matter what.

Before you screw the rims, when you have the tires mountd have the shop install some bead glue, silicone, or dawn dish soap around the bead, many have had luck sticking the tire to the rim with this method. Just be sure to mark the rim/tire and keep an eye out for rim spinning, if it still spins rims then just screw them.

 

Thanks for the suggestions xpndbl3 and IHI, for a second there I thought this thread was gonna go down the tubes. And no offence RTFC, but when someone that registered last month (Jan. 2005 was last month, right? ) comes into a post running his mouth about an unrelated topic that they obviously know nothing about I get a we bit anoyed. I don't think anyone can blame me.

Yes, these are for the superformance, and no, I didn't come out and say that before because non-thirdgen stuff gets shunned around here pretty quickly. I think this type of disccussion is good to have around regardless of what type of car you want to apply it to.

IHI - I believe you failed to mention what type of M/T's. I assume you were reffering to ET Streets?? Correct???

 

The date may show that, but Dean has been on boards for a LONG time.

Does it really matter how long someone has been here. Since, I have been here longer than you. If I had said what he said, would that change the way you took the comment.

 

Um, no. It would however change how I react to it. For example, you repeatedly responding to this thread with no intention of even addressing the original question annoys me just the same. I just may not go off on you as quick because I am ***uming you realize that taking a thread off on a useless tangent is a good way to cause problems in any forum. I guess it is also a good way to get over 5000 posts tho, keep up the good work. Sorry fellas, I'm not going to get into the sandbox with you on this one. I really don't care how long your buddy dean has been on this board. I just noticed he uses a screen name that was registered last month (probobly because his last one got banned, hmmm wonder why?) after he made a post on my thread that was not only completely unrelated but also out of line and extremely ignorent, which I feel is now more than obvious.

Just to save everyones time, I am not going to respond to or even fully read any new replys to this post that don't at least in some little way relate to the original topic. And, let me be the first to appologize for all this garbage to anyone who is offering or trying to get something usefull out of this thread.

 

This is a tech board for 3rd gen Camaros and Firebirds- did you miss that when you registered?

Find a board for you Ford project and ask about it there. I have never, nor will I ever be silly enough to ask a question about another type of vehicle regardless it being a tire question on a board not fit for that car specific. What was the whole point and who could learn from a tire choice in a size we can not use unless the car is tubbed.

But you'll still think I'm an ***, hence why I get inarguements with people like you and say kind words to get myself banned- the mods like my info but not my attitude hence why they allow me back under different names.

 

This M/T I have now are actual slicks (I have too much money in the car and goals set too high to bother with Street/Sportsman class racing at this point) I AM GOING back to the Hoosier Quicik Time Pro's 28x11.5 when I finish off this set of slicks I bought late last spring. The Hoosiers I've found are alot more predictable off the line than the M/T are, but that's getting into a whole nother can of worms that's bracket rac related.

Either way DOT stamped slicks or full slicks, you wont have any trouble, just try to fit as tall a tire as possible and gear the car accordingly.

 

Since when do you need to tubb a third gen to fit a 15x10 inch wheel/tire combo?

 

I've run MT, Hoosier and Good Year slicks. I just depends what tire size I've wanted. I found the Hoosiers to be the stickiest but also wore out the fastest. MT slicks need tubes. I have a new set on my car. They were filled up just over a month ago and are both flat now. As mentioned above, you can see air bubbles coming through the sidewalls when they're wet. I may decide to put my tubes back in them soon.

I'm currently up to MT ET Drag 29.5 x 10.5 slicks. They're actually just under 30" tall and that's the limit to what I can stuff into the fenders without doing a lot more sheet metal work on the inner corners. If I used a rim with less backspace and pushed the wheels outward, I could go with a wider slick but 10.5" is enough.

Like IHI just mentioned. You want a tire as tall as possible then gear it to use the taller tire. A tall tire gives more of a footprint from front to rear. Traction just isn't about having the widest tire.

 

This was not directed towards you. Yes you can squeese a certain 15x 10 rim and tire combo in a third gen based on ride height and tire size limitation.

What I refered to was the size of tire he could stuff under that Cobra on a 15x10 rim is larger than what we could stuff under our 3rdgens without wheelwell modifications.

I hope you now have a better understanding- If not, I can no further enlighten you. His question was non 3rd gen specific and the response of the "best " would not pertain to "3rd gen sizes" but yet for "cobra sizes"