Eibach Sportlines look great
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Supreme Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Eibach Sportlines look great
Well, half way at least. I put them on the rear of the bird, and I was working on the fronts but I broke my 10mm 6-point socket tring to get the struts off. PB Blaster failed me. Yeah, I did this in the crappy Michigan weather (sleet/snow) and I was so frustrated.
To do the fronts, do I just pull the struts and 'whammy'? what else is there? I'm just pretty much playing as I see it. I don't want a spring to shoot out, as people have described before. What's the PROPER method? I have a spring compressor, yes.
Rear half lowered vs stock fronts:
To do the fronts, do I just pull the struts and 'whammy'? what else is there? I'm just pretty much playing as I see it. I don't want a spring to shoot out, as people have described before. What's the PROPER method? I have a spring compressor, yes.
Rear half lowered vs stock fronts:
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 8,494
Likes: 413
From: Sophia, NC
Car: 2016 Camaro SS + 1986 Z28
Well, you can use a sping compressor, but I found another method that worked. ( I did the prokit install this weekend!)
The first half I used the compressor, which was a pain, but it worked as advertised, no problems. For the other side, I (we) attached a safety chain around the spring and K-member and simply lowered the A arm with the Jack. By the time the spring finally "popped" it had hardly any load on it at all. This method was MUCH easier and quicker than the compressor.
Obviously you wouldn't want to do this without a safety chain because ya never know what will happen, but it turned out to not be necessary in my case. When it popped free it never actually went anywhere. The only popping was the spring pushing past the raised center portion of the A-arm that the spring goes around. does that make sense?
The first half I used the compressor, which was a pain, but it worked as advertised, no problems. For the other side, I (we) attached a safety chain around the spring and K-member and simply lowered the A arm with the Jack. By the time the spring finally "popped" it had hardly any load on it at all. This method was MUCH easier and quicker than the compressor.
Obviously you wouldn't want to do this without a safety chain because ya never know what will happen, but it turned out to not be necessary in my case. When it popped free it never actually went anywhere. The only popping was the spring pushing past the raised center portion of the A-arm that the spring goes around. does that make sense?
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,995
Likes: 0
From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by Abubaca
Well, you can use a sping compressor, but I found another method that worked. ( I did the prokit install this weekend!)
The first half I used the compressor, which was a pain, but it worked as advertised, no problems. For the other side, I (we) attached a safety chain around the spring and K-member and simply lowered the A arm with the Jack. By the time the spring finally "popped" it had hardly any load on it at all. This method was MUCH easier and quicker than the compressor.
Obviously you wouldn't want to do this without a safety chain because ya never know what will happen, but it turned out to not be necessary in my case. When it popped free it never actually went anywhere. The only popping was the spring pushing past the raised center portion of the A-arm that the spring goes around. does that make sense?
Well, you can use a sping compressor, but I found another method that worked. ( I did the prokit install this weekend!)
The first half I used the compressor, which was a pain, but it worked as advertised, no problems. For the other side, I (we) attached a safety chain around the spring and K-member and simply lowered the A arm with the Jack. By the time the spring finally "popped" it had hardly any load on it at all. This method was MUCH easier and quicker than the compressor.
Obviously you wouldn't want to do this without a safety chain because ya never know what will happen, but it turned out to not be necessary in my case. When it popped free it never actually went anywhere. The only popping was the spring pushing past the raised center portion of the A-arm that the spring goes around. does that make sense?
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 630
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Car: 83 Camaro
Engine: 350
Transmission: th350
just lower the jack down under the a-arm while the rest of the car is supported....if the spring does decide to fly away.....try not to be in its path
Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 230
Likes: 0
From: VA, USA
Car: '84 Camaro SC/ I-ROC Body Conversio
Engine: Rebuilt 350 5.7L, Edelbrock 750cfm
Transmission: Re-built 700-R4
Axle/Gears: Moser, 3.73
just lower the jack down under the a-arm while the rest of the car is supported....if the spring does decide to fly away.....try not to be in its path
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
From: New Zealand
Car: Modified 83 Berlinetta
Engine: 350 - 300hp
Transmission: 700R4
sportlines
How much clearance to you get with these installed? I have a lot of room in the wheel well , but not too much room under my custom Y-pipe.
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