Tubular A-arm broke!
#151
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Car: 86 Camaro Z28
Engine: 350 sbc goodwrench
Transmission: T-5 in the works
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.42 open
I guess I should put it on a different board.
I figured since you guys like to use aftermarket
tube suspension components,
This car is perfect for it you could build your track car..
I figured since you guys like to use aftermarket
tube suspension components,
This car is perfect for it you could build your track car..
#152
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by Larry Burd
you guys are playing with your life using that aftermarket garbage. at least the OEM stuff is proven.
you really think 2 lbs and a little "stiffer" arm is making a difference in a daily driver. get real.
I've seen the result of a tubular arm failing at the race track.
Car hit the cement barrier, then bounced off to the other cement barrier.
you guys are playing with your life using that aftermarket garbage. at least the OEM stuff is proven.
you really think 2 lbs and a little "stiffer" arm is making a difference in a daily driver. get real.
I've seen the result of a tubular arm failing at the race track.
Car hit the cement barrier, then bounced off to the other cement barrier.
Originally posted by AM91Camaro_RS
they work fine if they are built correctly. there shouldn't be any "playing with your life" involved.
they work fine if they are built correctly. there shouldn't be any "playing with your life" involved.
#153
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by AM91Camaro_RS
well, yes...potholes are hard on suspension. but, knowing how redraif's car is build and all (being a show car) i bet she does everything possible to avoid potholes!
well, yes...potholes are hard on suspension. but, knowing how redraif's car is build and all (being a show car) i bet she does everything possible to avoid potholes!
#154
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Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
Originally posted by redraif
Need a better handling set up as the car will soon enter autocrossing.
Need a better handling set up as the car will soon enter autocrossing.
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Car: 1987 Trans Am
Originally posted by Dewey316
With coil over and tubular a-arms, you are going to be in such an extreme class, it doesn't really matter, you won't be compative. (don't take that the wrong way, but the cars that you are going to be running against are going to be full on race cars.). If you really want to be competative, your best off with stock peices, and good springs/struts. So you can at least be in a class with cars that are remotely stock.
With coil over and tubular a-arms, you are going to be in such an extreme class, it doesn't really matter, you won't be compative. (don't take that the wrong way, but the cars that you are going to be running against are going to be full on race cars.). If you really want to be competative, your best off with stock peices, and good springs/struts. So you can at least be in a class with cars that are remotely stock.
#157
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Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
Originally posted by LT1guy
She's not planning on being competetive with this car; rather, its to go out and have fun with.
She's not planning on being competetive with this car; rather, its to go out and have fun with.
#159
Originally posted by MrDude_1
whoa, whos arms are thoes? updated PA or Profab design? more info?
whoa, whos arms are thoes? updated PA or Profab design? more info?
I would like to clear a few things up guys.
Our old design a arm was never intended for street use or road race use. The a arm was built to serve one purpose and that was for drag race classes where a stock style front suspension (factory location coil spring) was all that was allowed.
In this situation we are going to send the customer a new set of chromoly a-arms to resolve the situation @ our expense. We have sold literally thousands of sets of these a arms in the past 5 yrs and have honestly not had more than 3-4 sets have any problems. It was found to be a flaw in the tubing itself and not the welding process.
I read earlier in this post about someone claiming that PA Racing mixes mild steel and chromoly in part construction... there is no truth to that and if someone has a question on welding please notify us asap. Someone even said we mig weld our chromoly?! Also not true at all we have some of the best welders in the industry and if this was not true we would not be known for what we are today. We tig weld all of our chromoly and the majority our mild steel. We tig weld more of our parts that ANY company that builds these parts and we take pride in keeping ours the highest quality available on the market. There are a lot of members of this board that use our products and have had great success with them.
I would also like to bring up the fact that PA Racing and Pro Fab Racing are two different companies and have been that way for a couple years now and often guys that have had problems have had problems with the other party. Anyone with questions or concerns can contact Pa Racing or myself for more info.
I would also like to say that it is unfortunate that when a high profile user has a problem with a companies product, instead of contacting the company to resolve the problem (and giving them time to resolve it), they begin posting negatively about the manufacturer without even giving them a chance to resolve the issue at hand. Had we been given a sufficient time to fix the problem, we would have made it right on the items @ fault. I personally have never seen a company with better customer service than we have here.
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Car: 1993 GMC Typhoon
Engine: 4.3 Turbo
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.42
raif is going to auto cross her car??? with all the Neon, Ugly wheels, horrible lights, and other lame pieces on it???
damn you're a brave girl..
damn you're a brave girl..
#161
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Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 V8
Originally posted by Zack @ PA
Those are a picture of our current design a-arm. We have been making them for almost a year now.
I would like to clear a few things up guys.
Our old design a arm was never intended for street use or road race use. The a arm was built to serve one purpose and that was for drag race classes where a stock style front suspension (factory location coil spring) was all that was allowed.
In this situation we are going to send the customer a new set of chromoly a-arms to resolve the situation @ our expense. We have sold literally thousands of sets of these a arms in the past 5 yrs and have honestly not had more than 3-4 sets have any problems. It was found to be a flaw in the tubing itself and not the welding process.
I read earlier in this post about someone claiming that PA Racing mixes mild steel and chromoly in part construction... there is no truth to that and if someone has a question on welding please notify us asap. Someone even said we mig weld our chromoly?! Also not true at all we have some of the best welders in the industry and if this was not true we would not be known for what we are today. We tig weld all of our chromoly and the majority our mild steel. We tig weld more of our parts that ANY company that builds these parts and we take pride in keeping ours the highest quality available on the market. There are a lot of members of this board that use our products and have had great success with them.
I would also like to bring up the fact that PA Racing and Pro Fab Racing are two different companies and have been that way for a couple years now and often guys that have had problems have had problems with the other party. Anyone with questions or concerns can contact Pa Racing or myself for more info.
I would also like to say that it is unfortunate that when a high profile user has a problem with a companies product, instead of contacting the company to resolve the problem (and giving them time to resolve it), they begin posting negatively about the manufacturer without even giving them a chance to resolve the issue at hand. Had we been given a sufficient time to fix the problem, we would have made it right on the items @ fault. I personally have never seen a company with better customer service than we have here.
Those are a picture of our current design a-arm. We have been making them for almost a year now.
I would like to clear a few things up guys.
Our old design a arm was never intended for street use or road race use. The a arm was built to serve one purpose and that was for drag race classes where a stock style front suspension (factory location coil spring) was all that was allowed.
In this situation we are going to send the customer a new set of chromoly a-arms to resolve the situation @ our expense. We have sold literally thousands of sets of these a arms in the past 5 yrs and have honestly not had more than 3-4 sets have any problems. It was found to be a flaw in the tubing itself and not the welding process.
I read earlier in this post about someone claiming that PA Racing mixes mild steel and chromoly in part construction... there is no truth to that and if someone has a question on welding please notify us asap. Someone even said we mig weld our chromoly?! Also not true at all we have some of the best welders in the industry and if this was not true we would not be known for what we are today. We tig weld all of our chromoly and the majority our mild steel. We tig weld more of our parts that ANY company that builds these parts and we take pride in keeping ours the highest quality available on the market. There are a lot of members of this board that use our products and have had great success with them.
I would also like to bring up the fact that PA Racing and Pro Fab Racing are two different companies and have been that way for a couple years now and often guys that have had problems have had problems with the other party. Anyone with questions or concerns can contact Pa Racing or myself for more info.
I would also like to say that it is unfortunate that when a high profile user has a problem with a companies product, instead of contacting the company to resolve the problem (and giving them time to resolve it), they begin posting negatively about the manufacturer without even giving them a chance to resolve the issue at hand. Had we been given a sufficient time to fix the problem, we would have made it right on the items @ fault. I personally have never seen a company with better customer service than we have here.
That's good to hear. And to be honest, I didn't know there was a difference between profab and PA racing. I'll be looking to buy a K-member, A-arms, and LCA's in the next week so I'll definitely be giving you a call.
#162
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Originally posted by AM91Camaro_RS
look at any major racing division (nascar, kart, irl, ...), any of them running stamped suspension parts? not that i've ever seen! they work fine if they are built correctly. there shouldn't be any "playing with your life" involved.
look at any major racing division (nascar, kart, irl, ...), any of them running stamped suspension parts? not that i've ever seen! they work fine if they are built correctly. there shouldn't be any "playing with your life" involved.
Yes, a tubular LCA can be built that is both stiffer and more durable then the stock stamped steel ones (look at the a-arms that are used on some of the chevy trucks and similar applications), but they won’t look anything like that one and will most likely be heavier then a stock arm.
#163
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Car: 91 Camaro
Engine: 3.1...not hardly stock
Transmission: 700r4....not stock either
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by 83 Crossfire TA
In those applications there is a finite duty cycle for these parts before they get junked, they get regularly inspected before EVERY use, they are designed totally differently, they are built differently out of different materials, and finally, a smooth track and a 1500lb car is significantly different then a bumpy, pothole ridden street in a 4000LB car (and don’t tell me that your car is 3xxx… add a full tank of gas, trunk full of BS and 1-2 friends and you’ve got 4K in the lightest street going f-body).
Yes, a tubular LCA can be built that is both stiffer and more durable then the stock stamped steel ones (look at the a-arms that are used on some of the chevy trucks and similar applications), but they won’t look anything like that one and will most likely be heavier then a stock arm.
In those applications there is a finite duty cycle for these parts before they get junked, they get regularly inspected before EVERY use, they are designed totally differently, they are built differently out of different materials, and finally, a smooth track and a 1500lb car is significantly different then a bumpy, pothole ridden street in a 4000LB car (and don’t tell me that your car is 3xxx… add a full tank of gas, trunk full of BS and 1-2 friends and you’ve got 4K in the lightest street going f-body).
Yes, a tubular LCA can be built that is both stiffer and more durable then the stock stamped steel ones (look at the a-arms that are used on some of the chevy trucks and similar applications), but they won’t look anything like that one and will most likely be heavier then a stock arm.
i mentioned nascar running tube suspension....those cars weigh well over 3k lbs, not 1500. but, i do understand that those pieces get inspected regularly and replaced often. lets just give up on this arguement, okay??
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Car: Agood2.8,
Engine: V6rsr,
Transmission: Afrikingoodtime
Originally posted by Zack @ PA
I would also like to say that it is unfortunate that when a high profile user has a problem with a companies product, instead of contacting the company to resolve the problem (and giving them time to resolve it), they begin posting negatively about the manufacturer without even giving them a chance to resolve the issue at hand. Had we been given a sufficient time to fix the problem, we would have made it right on the items @ fault. I personally have never seen a company with better customer service than we have here.
I would also like to say that it is unfortunate that when a high profile user has a problem with a companies product, instead of contacting the company to resolve the problem (and giving them time to resolve it), they begin posting negatively about the manufacturer without even giving them a chance to resolve the issue at hand. Had we been given a sufficient time to fix the problem, we would have made it right on the items @ fault. I personally have never seen a company with better customer service than we have here.
If it doesn't come out here, you my friend are certainly not going to be telling others of the hazard- you'll be hiding that to yourself.
I have a friend that has your arms on his car that are just like the ones that broke,.I am not going to disclose his name. If it weren't for this post and me telling him he still would have no idea. I am not going to tell you his name. I will in fact keep this post updated as to when if ever he recieves a warning letter from you to check the product he bought from you for possible defects. Better start sending those letters- to everyone.
Yes I have had the same happen fto me on another vehicle from another aftermarket A-arm, AND YES, You pissed me off with the above commemt
Last edited by RTFC; 06-19-2005 at 01:50 PM.
#165
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Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 S60
What gets me is where the crack began on the tube. Rght where the weld started. That tells me two things, one, the wleder had too much heat in the tube, therefore making it brittle and easier to snap and two, they mig welded 4130. Just by looking at how the tube broke, it is more or less a clean break. MS will bend and distort before it snaps like that. Thats why I just said that they mig'ed 4130.
Then again I don't know a thing so dont listen to me.
Kat
Then again I don't know a thing so dont listen to me.
Kat
#166
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Car: 1987 Trans Am
Originally posted by Zack @ PA
Those are a picture of our current design a-arm. We have been making them for almost a year now.
Those are a picture of our current design a-arm. We have been making them for almost a year now.
[i]I would like to clear a few things up guys.
Our old design a arm was never intended for street use or road race use. The a arm was built to serve one purpose and that was for drag race classes where a stock style front suspension (factory location coil spring) was all that was allowed. .[/B]
Our old design a arm was never intended for street use or road race use. The a arm was built to serve one purpose and that was for drag race classes where a stock style front suspension (factory location coil spring) was all that was allowed. .[/B]
[i] In this situation we are going to send the customer a new set of chromoly a-arms to resolve the situation @ our expense. We have sold literally thousands of sets of these a arms in the past 5 yrs and have honestly not had more than 3-4 sets have any problems. It was found to be a flaw in the tubing itself and not the welding process. .[/B]
[i]I would also like to say that it is unfortunate that when a high profile user has a problem with a companies product, instead of contacting the company to resolve the problem (and giving them time to resolve it), they begin posting negatively about the manufacturer without even giving them a chance to resolve the issue at hand. Had we been given a sufficient time to fix the problem, we would have made it right on the items @ fault. I personally have never seen a company with better customer service than we have here. .[/B]
You speak of your great customer service, but when Shannon called to inform your company what happened, she was told to send the parts back and you would make a determination. No apology, no anything...not even a call tag to pick the parts up. My attorney advised against sending the parts back without gathering some information first, and deciding on an appropriate course of action. Personally, I would like to avoid legal complications, how about you? All you have to do is reimburse her in full for the cost of the parts, the towing bill, and the labor...about $600 total...and a LOT of hassle will be avoided. You can reach her at redraif@yahoo.com.
Last edited by LT1guy; 06-20-2005 at 12:52 PM.
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Car: 91 Mustang SS/O 10 tire car
Engine: 347 CI W/F3sc
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A-arm problem
Guys this will be my first and last post on this matter no need to bash Zach he was just posting some facts and info. If you wish to bash start with me ,I own Pa Racing. As for the the post from Kat I can assure you that there are NO arms made here in my building that are mig welded 4130, or let alone any a-arm that is mig welded period. All of our arms here are tig welded 100% of the time( it's been this was since day one). I'm not here to flame or get a bunch of BS started i'm here posting to figure out a problem and resolve it. I'm a busy guy and this isn't what I choose to do while @ work.
As for redraif(in which I still don't have a real name or phone number for), anytime there is a problem with any part our company policy is send pictures or parts to us to inspect and resolve the issue. First thing needed is a invoice showing when and where the parts was made/bought ( I get this alot believe it or not that say they have our parts but really come to find out they do not) second is you need to contact myself before anything will ever be settled on a problem @ Pa Racing not our sales staff (this was never done). Also posting problems on the net before anything is resolved isn't a very fair way to get things handled (atleast not in my book) so don't be upset if things are not handled as you would like them.
As for the main posting here is the arms @ fault we have had a problem with the old design(maybe 5 sets) in the past year that had come back with a problem (note the new design was made after the first one was returned) there is not a problem with every a-arm designed that way (there was just a batch of 10 or so that was made with this material by an outside source in Streator IL) that is the reason alot of buyers have not been sent anything (some have though from our records there was only eight sent out and of those eight seven was to shops that resold them) I can say if anyone feels there arms are unsafe send them back and get them exchanged (I've did this since I've started Pa Racing on any part I make. I've even exchanged for parts that were not made by myself with no hassle or questions) but keep in mind almost every other problem I've had and resolved I've delt with the customer before it's got to this point.
Another thing is the disclaimer has been on my web site since day one and it wasn't just added not that this any big thing (they don't do squat in court, I've been there before and it was with redraifs new suspension company choice but thats a whole new can of worms).
As for the testing the parts and not selling them as parts to be driven on the street cars. Last I checked the parts on most likely 95% of your cars are in the same boat, very few aftermarket parts are DOT approved (reason this is very costly) almost any part you bolt on your car is this way it's your chance/risk your taking when you decide to modify your DOT approved car/truck. We made this type of arm from 98-01 on just customers race cars we built and ran. Once i seen others wanted them (we never had the plan to sell them in mass production from the first day) with that being said we ran them on several cars not one being slower than a 8 sec 3200lb car with no failure's. Also if the arms were ever purchased from myself and you were talking to me I also said and still say I wouldn't run this arm on a true street car unless very few miles were planned.
This is all I have time to post on the matter if anyone would like further info e-mail me @ Jason@paracing.com or call the shop @ 877-550-8400 ask for myself if i'm not available leave a name and number to be reached and I will return it as I get the time.
As for redraif(in which I still don't have a real name or phone number for), anytime there is a problem with any part our company policy is send pictures or parts to us to inspect and resolve the issue. First thing needed is a invoice showing when and where the parts was made/bought ( I get this alot believe it or not that say they have our parts but really come to find out they do not) second is you need to contact myself before anything will ever be settled on a problem @ Pa Racing not our sales staff (this was never done). Also posting problems on the net before anything is resolved isn't a very fair way to get things handled (atleast not in my book) so don't be upset if things are not handled as you would like them.
As for the main posting here is the arms @ fault we have had a problem with the old design(maybe 5 sets) in the past year that had come back with a problem (note the new design was made after the first one was returned) there is not a problem with every a-arm designed that way (there was just a batch of 10 or so that was made with this material by an outside source in Streator IL) that is the reason alot of buyers have not been sent anything (some have though from our records there was only eight sent out and of those eight seven was to shops that resold them) I can say if anyone feels there arms are unsafe send them back and get them exchanged (I've did this since I've started Pa Racing on any part I make. I've even exchanged for parts that were not made by myself with no hassle or questions) but keep in mind almost every other problem I've had and resolved I've delt with the customer before it's got to this point.
Another thing is the disclaimer has been on my web site since day one and it wasn't just added not that this any big thing (they don't do squat in court, I've been there before and it was with redraifs new suspension company choice but thats a whole new can of worms).
As for the testing the parts and not selling them as parts to be driven on the street cars. Last I checked the parts on most likely 95% of your cars are in the same boat, very few aftermarket parts are DOT approved (reason this is very costly) almost any part you bolt on your car is this way it's your chance/risk your taking when you decide to modify your DOT approved car/truck. We made this type of arm from 98-01 on just customers race cars we built and ran. Once i seen others wanted them (we never had the plan to sell them in mass production from the first day) with that being said we ran them on several cars not one being slower than a 8 sec 3200lb car with no failure's. Also if the arms were ever purchased from myself and you were talking to me I also said and still say I wouldn't run this arm on a true street car unless very few miles were planned.
This is all I have time to post on the matter if anyone would like further info e-mail me @ Jason@paracing.com or call the shop @ 877-550-8400 ask for myself if i'm not available leave a name and number to be reached and I will return it as I get the time.
#169
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Originally posted by LT1guy
If that was the case, why isn't that stated in the product description on your website? It seems your enthusiasm for selling as many low quality suspension components to whomever will buy them is far more important to you than the lives and property of your customers and those around them. When these a-arms were ordered, no one asked if they were going on a street car.
If that was the case, why isn't that stated in the product description on your website? It seems your enthusiasm for selling as many low quality suspension components to whomever will buy them is far more important to you than the lives and property of your customers and those around them. When these a-arms were ordered, no one asked if they were going on a street car.
----------------------------------------
PA Racing Disclaimer
Use of this Product is acceptance of seller's disclaimer of warranty
The purchaser is responsible for inspections before installing products. Neither the seller nor PA Racing Inc. will be responsible for any loss or damage or injury from any cause including defects of PA Racing Inc. products. PA Racing Inc. products are NOT D.O.T. approved or intended for street use. Buyer agrees to indemnify and hold Sellers harmless from any claim,action or demand arising out of incident to the buyers installation or use of products purchased from PA Racing Inc.
----------------------------------------
There's a big difference between a car that sees only drag strip duty and car that's driven daily on the street. The street car will put much more stress on the suspension components.
A few years back I had the opportunity to meet with the people Hotchkis Performance and talked with them specifically about tubular A-arms for our cars. The reply I got was that they would not produce such a part.
Their reason being that our front A-arms see very high load/stress levels due to the suspension design. Furthermore, too much R&D would be required to get them D.O.T. approved and this would make them too expensive for the average consumer.
Hotchkis estimated their final cost to the consumer would be around $1200 per set and they wouldn't be abale to sell very many at the price.
Last edited by BretD 88GTA; 06-20-2005 at 06:18 PM.
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Car: Agood2.8,
Engine: V6rsr,
Transmission: Afrikingoodtime
Regardless of the typical disclaimer posted above-
Everyone has that same disclaimer, It is normal course of business in the aftermarket industry.
What is important is that everyone still buys products from every aftermarket company out there with theis disclaimer and does infact use the products on street cars. It is well known in the car industry that this is the very normal practice. If the company denies such knowledge, they are full of crap and damn well know that thier business profits rely mainly on 95% of their sales going onto a street driven vehicle.
What does matter is when someone such as what just happened with PA Racing using inferior tubing and engineering is they will in fact get bit in the *** if and when something like this happens to a customer. They have now had a significant problem that has bitten them in the *** and their reputation is bad due to there choice of poor quality product failing. I have heard this beforehand about them. This is the "second" such incident I personally have heard. People would be crazy to ever trust them again. They are putting profit above safety and now trying to stand on the disclaimer BS instead of your safety.
I choose to buy from companies that are well known and have never had such life threatening failures regardless of the typical disclaimer.
Everyone has that same disclaimer, It is normal course of business in the aftermarket industry.
What is important is that everyone still buys products from every aftermarket company out there with theis disclaimer and does infact use the products on street cars. It is well known in the car industry that this is the very normal practice. If the company denies such knowledge, they are full of crap and damn well know that thier business profits rely mainly on 95% of their sales going onto a street driven vehicle.
What does matter is when someone such as what just happened with PA Racing using inferior tubing and engineering is they will in fact get bit in the *** if and when something like this happens to a customer. They have now had a significant problem that has bitten them in the *** and their reputation is bad due to there choice of poor quality product failing. I have heard this beforehand about them. This is the "second" such incident I personally have heard. People would be crazy to ever trust them again. They are putting profit above safety and now trying to stand on the disclaimer BS instead of your safety.
I choose to buy from companies that are well known and have never had such life threatening failures regardless of the typical disclaimer.
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Originally posted by BretD 88GTA
Uh, this disclaimer has been on the PA Racing Web site for quite a while:
----------------------------------------
PA Racing Disclaimer
Use of this Product is acceptance of seller's disclaimer of warranty
The purchaser is responsible for inspections before installing products. Neither the seller nor PA Racing Inc. will be responsible for any loss or damage or injury from any cause including defects of PA Racing Inc. products. PA Racing Inc. products are NOT D.O.T. approved or intended for street use. Buyer agrees to indemnify and hold Sellers harmless from any claim,action or demand arising out of incident to the buyers installation or use of products purchased from PA Racing Inc.
----------------------------------------
There's a big difference between a car that sees only drag strip duty and car that's driven daily on the street. The street car will put much more stress on the suspension components.
A few years back I had the opportunity to meet with the people Hotchkis Performance and talked with them specifically about tubular A-arms for our cars. The reply I got was that they would not produce such a part.
Their reason being that our front A-arms see very high load/stress levels due to the suspension design. Furthermore, too much R&D would be required to get them D.O.T. approved and this would make them too expensive for the average consumer.
Hotchkis estimated their final cost to the consumer would be around $1200 per set and they wouldn't be abale to sell very many at the price.
Uh, this disclaimer has been on the PA Racing Web site for quite a while:
----------------------------------------
PA Racing Disclaimer
Use of this Product is acceptance of seller's disclaimer of warranty
The purchaser is responsible for inspections before installing products. Neither the seller nor PA Racing Inc. will be responsible for any loss or damage or injury from any cause including defects of PA Racing Inc. products. PA Racing Inc. products are NOT D.O.T. approved or intended for street use. Buyer agrees to indemnify and hold Sellers harmless from any claim,action or demand arising out of incident to the buyers installation or use of products purchased from PA Racing Inc.
----------------------------------------
There's a big difference between a car that sees only drag strip duty and car that's driven daily on the street. The street car will put much more stress on the suspension components.
A few years back I had the opportunity to meet with the people Hotchkis Performance and talked with them specifically about tubular A-arms for our cars. The reply I got was that they would not produce such a part.
Their reason being that our front A-arms see very high load/stress levels due to the suspension design. Furthermore, too much R&D would be required to get them D.O.T. approved and this would make them too expensive for the average consumer.
Hotchkis estimated their final cost to the consumer would be around $1200 per set and they wouldn't be abale to sell very many at the price.
Also, I highly doubt that a mildly lowered car, driven (carefully) on the street, puts more stress on an a-arm than a car doing this (from the PA website):
#172
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umm.. i dont know about you.. but i have never heard of a company with 100% non failure rate of a product..
the disclaimer says it all.. these parts are NOT DOT approved so it IS users discretion..
after all, no one made you buy the product.. no one made you use it on a daily driven car..
if you dont heed the warnings or just think "oh it will be OK" then the user is taking the risk.. we all are every time we "upgrade" something..
did anyone ever think that anyone tested this thing on a daily driven car and tested it for thousands and thousands of miles of daily driven, pot hole streets, speed bumps, taking fast corners and such? if they did they would claim its OK for street use.. but they didnt make that claim because they never tested it for that purpose..
Dean im not against you at all or anyone else on here, and im not putting your opinion down.. im not trying to start an argument or anything...
i just think that the manufacturer does make some valid points, they admit there was a few problems in manufacturing, and have revised things.
on a side note.. just for kicks.. my father works for Northrup/Grumman.. he is/has been the Chief Inspector quality control engineer for commercial and military aircraft for 34 years..
did you know that for the military there needs to be 95.50% success rate for parts passed... and 65.00% success rate for commercial aircraft such as the 747, 737 DC10 ect.?????
think about that next time you board an airplane.. i could go into alot more detail about this subject.. but then im off topic..
the disclaimer says it all.. these parts are NOT DOT approved so it IS users discretion..
after all, no one made you buy the product.. no one made you use it on a daily driven car..
if you dont heed the warnings or just think "oh it will be OK" then the user is taking the risk.. we all are every time we "upgrade" something..
did anyone ever think that anyone tested this thing on a daily driven car and tested it for thousands and thousands of miles of daily driven, pot hole streets, speed bumps, taking fast corners and such? if they did they would claim its OK for street use.. but they didnt make that claim because they never tested it for that purpose..
Dean im not against you at all or anyone else on here, and im not putting your opinion down.. im not trying to start an argument or anything...
i just think that the manufacturer does make some valid points, they admit there was a few problems in manufacturing, and have revised things.
on a side note.. just for kicks.. my father works for Northrup/Grumman.. he is/has been the Chief Inspector quality control engineer for commercial and military aircraft for 34 years..
did you know that for the military there needs to be 95.50% success rate for parts passed... and 65.00% success rate for commercial aircraft such as the 747, 737 DC10 ect.?????
think about that next time you board an airplane.. i could go into alot more detail about this subject.. but then im off topic..
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Originally posted by LT1guy
Also, I highly doubt that a mildly lowered car, driven (carefully) on the street, puts more stress on an a-arm than a car doing this (from the PA website):
Also, I highly doubt that a mildly lowered car, driven (carefully) on the street, puts more stress on an a-arm than a car doing this (from the PA website):
With that said, that is an extreme photo. By-the-way, how the heck does a car do a severe enough wheel-stand that it pulls the rear tires a good 8" off the ground and doesn't flip over or crunch the rear body work?
Anyway, that car is running a coilover drag race suspension. Odds are good those springs are very soft for weight transfer and, as a result, absorb a large portion of the impact.
A lowered street car, with stiff springs and suspension isn't going to absorb impact the same way. The springs will absorb much less of the blow. The force then has to go somewhere and if there is a weakness in the suspension, there's a good chance it will break.
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Car: 91 Camaro
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just FYI, I have seen a series of pictures from the launch... i can't remember where but, it is real. it actually happened at the 1/4 mile track that i go to.
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Originally posted by Kat
What gets me is where the crack began on the tube. Rght where the weld started. That tells me two things, one, the wleder had too much heat in the tube, therefore making it brittle and easier to snap and two, they mig welded 4130. Just by looking at how the tube broke, it is more or less a clean break. MS will bend and distort before it snaps like that. Thats why I just said that they mig'ed 4130.
Then again I don't know a thing so dont listen to me.
What gets me is where the crack began on the tube. Rght where the weld started. That tells me two things, one, the wleder had too much heat in the tube, therefore making it brittle and easier to snap and two, they mig welded 4130. Just by looking at how the tube broke, it is more or less a clean break. MS will bend and distort before it snaps like that. Thats why I just said that they mig'ed 4130.
Then again I don't know a thing so dont listen to me.
Originally posted by nyytrousboy
As for the main posting here is the arms @ fault we have had a problem with the old design(maybe 5 sets) in the past year that had come back with a problem (note the new design was made after the first one was returned) there is not a problem with every a-arm designed that way (there was just a batch of 10 or so that was made with this material by an outside source in Streator IL)
As for the main posting here is the arms @ fault we have had a problem with the old design(maybe 5 sets) in the past year that had come back with a problem (note the new design was made after the first one was returned) there is not a problem with every a-arm designed that way (there was just a batch of 10 or so that was made with this material by an outside source in Streator IL)
I think that a lot of people are misunderstanding this, and this is a good and a bad thing WRT to your product. The point is that you got some inferior steel, which was weaker and that is why the arm broke like that, not that there was a problem with that particular the material in that spot on both arms.
The fact is that getting a hold of some inferior product is not that uncommon, and I’m not sure that in most cases there is an easy way to differentiate (I don’t know exactly what the problem is, but in many cases the steel could look externally identical and still be inferior). That’s the good side. The bad side is that it also very clearly points out a design that puts too much stress in one area. That suggests that under harder use even when made out of the proper material you still have a design problem and it will most likely break in the same location.
Another thing is the disclaimer has been on my web site since day one and it wasn't just added not that this any big thing (they don't do squat in court, I've been there before and it was with redraifs new suspension company choice but thats a whole new can of worms).
As for the testing the parts and not selling them as parts to be driven on the street cars. Last I checked the parts on most likely 95% of your cars are in the same boat, very few aftermarket parts are DOT approved (reason this is very costly) almost any part you bolt on your car is this way it's your chance/risk your taking when you decide to modify your DOT approved car/truck.
As for the testing the parts and not selling them as parts to be driven on the street cars. Last I checked the parts on most likely 95% of your cars are in the same boat, very few aftermarket parts are DOT approved (reason this is very costly) almost any part you bolt on your car is this way it's your chance/risk your taking when you decide to modify your DOT approved car/truck.
Now this is the part that just sucks. The fact is that we have a clear case where the customer is doing something contrary to the manufacturor’s recommended use, and everyone is jumping all over the manufacturer for “screwing up.” Well, She decided to run these parts in a way that they were not intended, and guess what, is replacing them with a new set of parts that will again be misused.
I can see it coming already and I’ve heard of it in germany and some other countries, where all parts put on a car that will be in operation on the road will have to be DOT certified (or their equivalent). For the most part that actually results in nothing but making for another set of govt positions and one more source of unnecessary cost/drain on the system. The parts don’t end up significantly better since govt agencies rarely hire people that _really_ understand what to look for, but end up costing MUCH more because of the extra testing and hassle involved.
The end result is that the consumer (us) ends up paying much more if we want _anything_ and have to deal with much more government regulation/hassle to do anything at all to their car and destroys loads of small businesses.
I just hope that no matter how this turns out (and I mean even if PA totally blows her off), Shannon has the good sense not to sue for what essentially is her own fault, since in the long run the only people that it could possibly benefit is her and the lawyers at the rest of our expense.
Originally posted by RTFC
Regardless of the typical disclaimer posted above-
Everyone has that same disclaimer, It is normal course of business in the aftermarket industry.
What is important is that everyone still buys products from every aftermarket company out there with theis disclaimer and does infact use the products on street cars. It is well known in the car industry that this is the very normal practice. If the company denies such knowledge, they are full of crap and damn well know that thier business profits rely mainly on 95% of their sales going onto a street driven vehicle.
…
I choose to buy from companies that are well known and have never had such life threatening failures regardless of the typical disclaimer.
Regardless of the typical disclaimer posted above-
Everyone has that same disclaimer, It is normal course of business in the aftermarket industry.
What is important is that everyone still buys products from every aftermarket company out there with theis disclaimer and does infact use the products on street cars. It is well known in the car industry that this is the very normal practice. If the company denies such knowledge, they are full of crap and damn well know that thier business profits rely mainly on 95% of their sales going onto a street driven vehicle.
…
I choose to buy from companies that are well known and have never had such life threatening failures regardless of the typical disclaimer.
This is one of the reasons why I repeatedly recommend against most people changing over to whatever aftermarket suspension piece if the stock part can be made to work. If you look at the stock parts they are designed in a way that even if you could put this kind of strain on the part there isn’t one thin section or critical section that could or is at all likely to just let go. The stock parts may flex, and in extreme cases of abuse may bend, but they rarely break unless abused way beyond the call of duty.
For example (and I only chose this one because they're 'here" and are often used as an example of "superior" aftermarket suspension parts) Spohn may overbuild their products (and I _still_ argue in a lot of cases under engineer), but the fact is that a rod end or any threaded end can break and let go as can a single tube…, where the factory bushings are inserted through the actual structure that is pivoted and even if the bushing falls apart it still doesn’t go anywhere.
If you’re building a race car where saving a few oz here and there and some marginal stiffness changes will help, the go for it, but if you’re building a street car, then forget it or understand that you’re taking your own life in your hands.
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The sh*t broke.. end of subject.
I don't care what excuses they have or anyone else is giving them.
Build a part for a racecar, whatever, it should not break, it should be built never to break. If you are compromising design strength for lightness, you are wrong. Period!
I don't care what excuses they have or anyone else is giving them.
Build a part for a racecar, whatever, it should not break, it should be built never to break. If you are compromising design strength for lightness, you are wrong. Period!
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by 83 Crossfire TA
Now this is the part that just sucks. The fact is that we have a clear case where the customer is doing something contrary to the manufacturor’s recommended use, and everyone is jumping all over the manufacturer for “screwing up.” Well, She decided to run these parts in a way that they were not intended, and guess what, is replacing them with a new set of parts that will again be misused.
I just hope that no matter how this turns out (and I mean even if PA totally blows her off), Shannon has the good sense not to sue for what essentially is her own fault, since in the long run the only people that it could possibly benefit is her and the lawyers at the rest of our expense.
If someone is “dumb enough” (not exactly the right words or connotation) to use the products on the street it’s their own problem, and in a perfect world it will stay that way.
Now this is the part that just sucks. The fact is that we have a clear case where the customer is doing something contrary to the manufacturor’s recommended use, and everyone is jumping all over the manufacturer for “screwing up.” Well, She decided to run these parts in a way that they were not intended, and guess what, is replacing them with a new set of parts that will again be misused.
I just hope that no matter how this turns out (and I mean even if PA totally blows her off), Shannon has the good sense not to sue for what essentially is her own fault, since in the long run the only people that it could possibly benefit is her and the lawyers at the rest of our expense.
If someone is “dumb enough” (not exactly the right words or connotation) to use the products on the street it’s their own problem, and in a perfect world it will stay that way.
Direct from PA website:
"Expert Assistance: PA Racing is available to discuss your application to help you choose the right parts, the first time out. If you require assistance with your application, please contact us via e-mail or call our tech line at 812-524-7177"
Well I guess the experts need to listen more carfully when someone calls to say they are buying parts for a street driven car that will see "regular driving". A car that is both lowered and had suspension upgrades. That the car will be autocrossed and drag raced some. We even asked about the k member for my less uncommon v-6 application. I was told I should use mild steel, for street use. Assured the set with the spring perches would be fine & "safe" for my application. Never was I told PA racing products were only intened for drag race use only. So I then thought about it saved my $ and ordered them online.
Oh and about me doing it all over again with someone else... AJE is building a road race set up so that it will be strong enough for daily use!
Last edited by redraif; 06-21-2005 at 09:42 AM.
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Originally posted by 83 Crossfire TA
Now this is the part that just sucks. The fact is that we have a clear case where the customer is doing something contrary to the manufacturor’s recommended use, and everyone is jumping all over the manufacturer for “screwing up.” Well, She decided to run these parts in a way that they were not intended, and guess what, is replacing them with a new set of parts that will again be misused.
I can see it coming already and I’ve heard of it in germany and some other countries, where all parts put on a car that will be in operation on the road will have to be DOT certified (or their equivalent). For the most part that actually results in nothing but making for another set of govt positions and one more source of unnecessary cost/drain on the system. The parts don’t end up significantly better since govt agencies rarely hire people that _really_ understand what to look for, but end up costing MUCH more because of the extra testing and hassle involved.
The end result is that the consumer (us) ends up paying much more if we want _anything_ and have to deal with much more government regulation/hassle to do anything at all to their car and destroys loads of small businesses.
I just hope that no matter how this turns out (and I mean even if PA totally blows her off), Shannon has the good sense not to sue for what essentially is her own fault, since in the long run the only people that it could possibly benefit is her and the lawyers at the rest of our expense.
If someone is “dumb enough” (not exactly the right words or connotation) to use the products on the street it’s their own problem, and in a perfect world it will stay that way.
This is one of the reasons why I repeatedly recommend against most people changing over to whatever aftermarket suspension piece if the stock part can be made to work. If you look at the stock parts they are designed in a way that even if you could put this kind of strain on the part there isn’t one thin section or critical section that could or is at all likely to just let go. The stock parts may flex, and in extreme cases of abuse may bend, but they rarely break unless abused way beyond the call of duty.
I
Now this is the part that just sucks. The fact is that we have a clear case where the customer is doing something contrary to the manufacturor’s recommended use, and everyone is jumping all over the manufacturer for “screwing up.” Well, She decided to run these parts in a way that they were not intended, and guess what, is replacing them with a new set of parts that will again be misused.
I can see it coming already and I’ve heard of it in germany and some other countries, where all parts put on a car that will be in operation on the road will have to be DOT certified (or their equivalent). For the most part that actually results in nothing but making for another set of govt positions and one more source of unnecessary cost/drain on the system. The parts don’t end up significantly better since govt agencies rarely hire people that _really_ understand what to look for, but end up costing MUCH more because of the extra testing and hassle involved.
The end result is that the consumer (us) ends up paying much more if we want _anything_ and have to deal with much more government regulation/hassle to do anything at all to their car and destroys loads of small businesses.
I just hope that no matter how this turns out (and I mean even if PA totally blows her off), Shannon has the good sense not to sue for what essentially is her own fault, since in the long run the only people that it could possibly benefit is her and the lawyers at the rest of our expense.
If someone is “dumb enough” (not exactly the right words or connotation) to use the products on the street it’s their own problem, and in a perfect world it will stay that way.
This is one of the reasons why I repeatedly recommend against most people changing over to whatever aftermarket suspension piece if the stock part can be made to work. If you look at the stock parts they are designed in a way that even if you could put this kind of strain on the part there isn’t one thin section or critical section that could or is at all likely to just let go. The stock parts may flex, and in extreme cases of abuse may bend, but they rarely break unless abused way beyond the call of duty.
I
I hate government regulation as much or more than probably anyone here (I work in one of the most highly regulated industries in the country), and I am all for government (and lawyers) staying out of our day to day lives. I also believe that anyone making a product that is critical for safety reasons should explicitly spell out exactly what uses it is and isn't intended for, and that in a case like this (no matter what it is used for), the manufacturer has a responsibility to build the safest part possible. If you don't have the expertise to design and build the parts, and the resources to make sure your parts are safe for the intended purpose (I sure as hell wouldn't put this junk on a drag car, seeing how easily it failed), then maybe you should find another line of work.
Shannon has offered an easy and quick solution to the problem; it is now up to the manufacturer to do the right thing. If they don't...well, it will cost them a lot more than $600. Whatever they choose to do, I hope they will at least start informing their customers of their products' "intended use". How many of the cars on this site with PA products are used exclusively on the drag strip? I would bet fewer than 10%.
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Originally posted by redraif
Oh and about me doing it all over again with someone else... AJE is building a road race set up so that it will be strong enough for daily use!
Oh and about me doing it all over again with someone else... AJE is building a road race set up so that it will be strong enough for daily use!
I'm not going to jump on board and bash manufactures, or bash your descision for running a part. But, be aware, that if you are building a car that has parts designed for racing, you need to treat them as such. Which includes regular inspections. Most racing parts are designed for a specific purpose, not an infinate lifespan for a street driven cars. There are very few race tracks on the planet that have potholes and other obsticals of that sort that you encounter when driving. The parts are not designed to take the regular impacts that those things put on suspension parts. Road racing parts are goign to be designed to handle lateral flexing and lateral loading better, I bet they are not designed or tested to take 1,000,000 spring oscilations, and impacts from things like pot-holes.
Just my $0.02, and something I hope you think about. As kewl as all the tubular aftermarket parts are, when you modify a car like this, you need to treat it as such, and be prepared for things like this to go wrong. It is your descision to make, most of these aftermarket parts are going to actualy fail if something goes wrong. Just as Mark pointed out in his post, the stock parts are designed to bend and flex, but not fail. Tubular aftermarket parts put a premium on rigidity and wieght (that is why people buy them), but when it break, its not just going to bend, it will actualy break.
#180
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Yes, mild steel is probably better for daily use.
Yes, they probably will build something sturdier then what you had.
But still, it is not a dot approved part and most likely (and I’m not a lawyer here) it is not technically legal for street use and should not be represented as such. For that matter, even if it was, there is still the standard disclaimer about performance parts (basically “speed parts get beat on and when it comes down to it there is no real guarantee or warranty of anything unless we’re feeling nice about it,” but rephrased in legalese).
I’m not saying this to pick on you or anything of the sort… I agree with you, that part should have never been built that way. I am saying what I already said, if you want to be safe (both in the technical sense and in the legal sense) about this then go back to stock parts. If you stay with aftermarket then understand that there are inherent risks and understand that YOU are taking those risks, the manufacturer of the parts is not, they’ve already stated that the parts are not intended for street use.
Yes, they probably will build something sturdier then what you had.
But still, it is not a dot approved part and most likely (and I’m not a lawyer here) it is not technically legal for street use and should not be represented as such. For that matter, even if it was, there is still the standard disclaimer about performance parts (basically “speed parts get beat on and when it comes down to it there is no real guarantee or warranty of anything unless we’re feeling nice about it,” but rephrased in legalese).
I’m not saying this to pick on you or anything of the sort… I agree with you, that part should have never been built that way. I am saying what I already said, if you want to be safe (both in the technical sense and in the legal sense) about this then go back to stock parts. If you stay with aftermarket then understand that there are inherent risks and understand that YOU are taking those risks, the manufacturer of the parts is not, they’ve already stated that the parts are not intended for street use.
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by Zack @ PA
I would also like to say that it is unfortunate that when a high profile user has a problem with a companies product, instead of contacting the company to resolve the problem (and giving them time to resolve it), they begin posting negatively about the manufacturer without even giving them a chance to resolve the issue at hand. Had we been given a sufficient time to fix the problem, we would have made it right on the items @ fault. I personally have never seen a company with better customer service than we have here.
I would also like to say that it is unfortunate that when a high profile user has a problem with a companies product, instead of contacting the company to resolve the problem (and giving them time to resolve it), they begin posting negatively about the manufacturer without even giving them a chance to resolve the issue at hand. Had we been given a sufficient time to fix the problem, we would have made it right on the items @ fault. I personally have never seen a company with better customer service than we have here.
See I'm no metal or chassis expert. I could have mailed these off and been told anything. And simply mailing the broken part away to someone who has nothing vested in my interests or well being, w/o doing my own investigation would have been short sided. Anyone would agree with this statement. I would think a consumer is allowed to ask questions when something fails, get an education to protect themselves, w/o fear of being told they were posting negatively about the manufacturer. You obviously did not really read thru my posts well, as I did not post negatively about PA. Maybe others did, but I started this thread without PA mentioned in the heading. I did not come out of the box trashing PA... just posted what I found and my concerns about what I found. I did not post this in a high profile area. I posted it where I felt I could get the best information from others to explain the problem! See this site is meant for infomation gathering. This is how I used it! I simply posted this too see what others had experienced and what their opinion was of the failure! If anything I was giving PA the benifit of the doubt here. I wanted to be able to approach the situation with an education. If the part failed due to my car or to the part. Was it a fluke, or was it common place. To send PA the parts knowing what truely happened and giving them the chance to make it right based on the failure. I see nothing wrong with this line of reasoning.
See you speak of me being a high profile user. Well I guess you need to get to know this high profile user better. Well with that in mind...anyone who knows me on this site knows I never do or say malicious things. I have a rep for being the one who handles things rationally and tactfully, even when the situation would allow for me to be ugly. This is exactly how I have handled the situation here. I have reread thru my posts and I have seen nothing here that was detrimental or that negative. Worst I have said is that in light of what I have found I would not feel comfortable running the product again. And since this diclaimer thing is being tossed around, I would think that PA would not feel I should use the product again. And yes I said I felt the K-member looks weak in some key areas, but I did not post the k-member pics. I just commented on what I saw. Trust me if I wanted to go after you in a negative light this small thread is not what would have happened.
And in fact if you had simply had paitence yourself, you would have seen a nice resolution to the whole problem would have been posted as well. So all could see your true customer service.
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by Dewey316
I would still be hesitant. Even though it is intended for RR use, doesn't mean it will be strong enough for daily use. Daily use is VERY hard on parts.
I'm not going to jump on board and bash manufactures, or bash your descision for running a part. But, be aware, that if you are building a car that has parts designed for racing, you need to treat them as such. Which includes regular inspections. Most racing parts are designed for a specific purpose, not an infinate lifespan for a street driven cars. There are very few race tracks on the planet that have potholes and other obsticals of that sort that you encounter when driving. The parts are not designed to take the regular impacts that those things put on suspension parts. Road racing parts are goign to be designed to handle lateral flexing and lateral loading better, I bet they are not designed or tested to take 1,000,000 spring oscilations, and impacts from things like pot-holes.
Just my $0.02, and something I hope you think about. As kewl as all the tubular aftermarket parts are, when you modify a car like this, you need to treat it as such, and be prepared for things like this to go wrong. It is your descision to make, most of these aftermarket parts are going to actualy fail if something goes wrong. Just as Mark pointed out in his post, the stock parts are designed to bend and flex, but not fail. Tubular aftermarket parts put a premium on rigidity and wieght (that is why people buy them), but when it break, its not just going to bend, it will actualy break.
I would still be hesitant. Even though it is intended for RR use, doesn't mean it will be strong enough for daily use. Daily use is VERY hard on parts.
I'm not going to jump on board and bash manufactures, or bash your descision for running a part. But, be aware, that if you are building a car that has parts designed for racing, you need to treat them as such. Which includes regular inspections. Most racing parts are designed for a specific purpose, not an infinate lifespan for a street driven cars. There are very few race tracks on the planet that have potholes and other obsticals of that sort that you encounter when driving. The parts are not designed to take the regular impacts that those things put on suspension parts. Road racing parts are goign to be designed to handle lateral flexing and lateral loading better, I bet they are not designed or tested to take 1,000,000 spring oscilations, and impacts from things like pot-holes.
Just my $0.02, and something I hope you think about. As kewl as all the tubular aftermarket parts are, when you modify a car like this, you need to treat it as such, and be prepared for things like this to go wrong. It is your descision to make, most of these aftermarket parts are going to actualy fail if something goes wrong. Just as Mark pointed out in his post, the stock parts are designed to bend and flex, but not fail. Tubular aftermarket parts put a premium on rigidity and wieght (that is why people buy them), but when it break, its not just going to bend, it will actualy break.
#183
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
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Originally posted by 83 Crossfire TA
In those applications there is a finite duty cycle for these parts before they get junked, they get regularly inspected before EVERY use, they are designed totally differently, they are built differently out of different materials, and finally, a smooth track and a 1500lb car is significantly different then a bumpy, pothole ridden street in a 4000LB car (and don’t tell me that your car is 3xxx… add a full tank of gas, trunk full of BS and 1-2 friends and you’ve got 4K in the lightest street going f-body).
Yes, a tubular LCA can be built that is both stiffer and more durable then the stock stamped steel ones (look at the a-arms that are used on some of the chevy trucks and similar applications), but they won’t look anything like that one and will most likely be heavier then a stock arm.
In those applications there is a finite duty cycle for these parts before they get junked, they get regularly inspected before EVERY use, they are designed totally differently, they are built differently out of different materials, and finally, a smooth track and a 1500lb car is significantly different then a bumpy, pothole ridden street in a 4000LB car (and don’t tell me that your car is 3xxx… add a full tank of gas, trunk full of BS and 1-2 friends and you’ve got 4K in the lightest street going f-body).
Yes, a tubular LCA can be built that is both stiffer and more durable then the stock stamped steel ones (look at the a-arms that are used on some of the chevy trucks and similar applications), but they won’t look anything like that one and will most likely be heavier then a stock arm.
Well I think the point now is even if it was not intended for street use it was sold to me full known that was how it was going to be used. Their site even says stronger & lighter. Its the stronger I saw and believed. Lighter I could care less!
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Originally posted by KiLLJ0Y
raif is going to auto cross her car??? with all the Neon, Ugly wheels, horrible lights, and other lame pieces on it???
damn you're a brave girl..
raif is going to auto cross her car??? with all the Neon, Ugly wheels, horrible lights, and other lame pieces on it???
damn you're a brave girl..
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Originally posted by KiLLJ0Y
raif is going to auto cross her car??? with all the Neon, Ugly wheels, horrible lights, and other lame pieces on it???
damn you're a brave girl..
I run CP with full interior and subs in the back.
Go have fun raif. getting to drive your car like that, is worth it. no one will laugh you off the course, if you have fun, and show that you are there to learn to drive your car better, and listen to the advice of the people who know what they are doing.
raif is going to auto cross her car??? with all the Neon, Ugly wheels, horrible lights, and other lame pieces on it???
damn you're a brave girl..
Originally posted by redraif
Go try and start something someplace else!
Go try and start something someplace else!
Go have fun raif. getting to drive your car like that, is worth it. no one will laugh you off the course, if you have fun, and show that you are there to learn to drive your car better, and listen to the advice of the people who know what they are doing.
#186
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Re: A-arm problem
Originally posted by RTFC
I would like to see proof on your part that you are sending out warnings to those previous customers to check their cars right now forthis same potential faliure.
I would like to see proof on your part that you are sending out warnings to those previous customers to check their cars right now forthis same potential faliure.
Originally posted by nyytrousboy
As for redraif(in which I still don't have a real name or phone number for), anytime there is a problem with any part our company policy is send pictures or parts to us to inspect and resolve the issue. First thing needed is a invoice showing when and where the parts was made/bought ( I get this alot believe it or not that say they have our parts but really come to find out they do not) second is you need to contact myself before anything will ever be settled on a problem @ Pa Racing not our sales staff (this was never done). Also posting problems on the net before anything is resolved isn't a very fair way to get things handled (atleast not in my book) so don't be upset if things are not handled as you would like them.
As for redraif(in which I still don't have a real name or phone number for), anytime there is a problem with any part our company policy is send pictures or parts to us to inspect and resolve the issue. First thing needed is a invoice showing when and where the parts was made/bought ( I get this alot believe it or not that say they have our parts but really come to find out they do not) second is you need to contact myself before anything will ever be settled on a problem @ Pa Racing not our sales staff (this was never done). Also posting problems on the net before anything is resolved isn't a very fair way to get things handled (atleast not in my book) so don't be upset if things are not handled as you would like them.
As for the main posting here is the arms @ fault we have had a problem with the old design(maybe 5 sets) in the past year that had come back with a problem (note the new design was made after the first one was returned) there is not a problem with every a-arm designed that way (there was just a batch of 10 or so that was made with this material by an outside source in Streator IL) that is the reason alot of buyers have not been sent anything (some have though from our records there was only eight sent out and of those eight seven was to shops that resold them) I can say if anyone feels there arms are unsafe send them back and get them exchanged (I've did this since I've started Pa Racing on any part I make. I've even exchanged for parts that were not made by myself with no hassle or questions) but keep in mind almost every other problem I've had and resolved I've delt with the customer before it's got to this point.
I had been told by one of your venders prior to contacting PA that PA left him holding the bag when a similar failure occured, but wiped out the kids whole frontend! That the whole thing was blamed on a bad batch of a-arms. Well I bought directly from you. Holding the credit card statement in my hand. I was not informed of the bad part when you had my info as having brought the product directly from you. I was not supposed to be concerned by that?
Also if the arms were ever purchased from myself and you were talking to me I also said and still say I wouldn't run this arm on a true street car unless very few miles were planned.
This is all I have time to post on the matter if anyone would like further info e-mail me @ Jason@paracing.com or call the shop @ 877-550-8400 ask for myself if i'm not available leave a name and number to be reached and I will return it as I get the time.
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Originally posted by 83 Crossfire TA
Man, I wish some more of those pics were in better focus…
Man, I wish some more of those pics were in better focus…
#189
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Shannon, If you send those things to him make sure the package is sent through "Certified mail" otherwise they may disappear forever. Make them sign for the returned parts so you have it documented they received them.
You have already documemted the evidence with pictures and have your reciept.
You have already documemted the evidence with pictures and have your reciept.
#190
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At one point Redraif was going to bring the part to someone to inspect. I'm curious what the result of the inspection is?
I'm running PROFAB k-member and a-arms. I think the design is pretty lame. Had to bang the **** out of one tube because the tie rod was digging into it. A rackmount ripped off the bottom tube and tore it, requiring me to patch and mig it. (can't wait for that to break), the motor mounts flex way too much.
Tomorrow i'm gonna have the car aligned. I'm wondering if these k-members are dead center on the car.
Now, to be fair though. Both PROFAB, and pa-racing says these parts are for off-road race use only. I understand some of you are in the opinion that "it should never break". Well, your entitled to your opinion, no matter how irrational.
FACT: parts do break, and the mfg of both parts state its not for street use. I, like Redraif didnt read this until AFTER the parts were installed, but I'm not about to blame profab or paracing.
Now, redraif made a statement about AJE building her a setup that was going to be very strong, etc, etc. How do you know? Becaue another member told you so? 50 other members told me the profab/pa k-member was the best thing in the world. Don't ASSume anything in life.
Another bad statement. About the Spohn stuff. I have some spohn stuff on my car. Although perhaps slightly better made than profab/pa, the LCA's are still stress cracking on my car. And in terms of support. I've called Steve in the past, and asked him questions about stuff (when they actually answered). Fact is, the customer service is about the same from vern, jason, or steve, and they all score about the same on the *******-o-meter.
Although, Jason seemed about 50% smarter than both vern or steve,
-- Joe
I'm running PROFAB k-member and a-arms. I think the design is pretty lame. Had to bang the **** out of one tube because the tie rod was digging into it. A rackmount ripped off the bottom tube and tore it, requiring me to patch and mig it. (can't wait for that to break), the motor mounts flex way too much.
Tomorrow i'm gonna have the car aligned. I'm wondering if these k-members are dead center on the car.
Now, to be fair though. Both PROFAB, and pa-racing says these parts are for off-road race use only. I understand some of you are in the opinion that "it should never break". Well, your entitled to your opinion, no matter how irrational.
FACT: parts do break, and the mfg of both parts state its not for street use. I, like Redraif didnt read this until AFTER the parts were installed, but I'm not about to blame profab or paracing.
Now, redraif made a statement about AJE building her a setup that was going to be very strong, etc, etc. How do you know? Becaue another member told you so? 50 other members told me the profab/pa k-member was the best thing in the world. Don't ASSume anything in life.
Another bad statement. About the Spohn stuff. I have some spohn stuff on my car. Although perhaps slightly better made than profab/pa, the LCA's are still stress cracking on my car. And in terms of support. I've called Steve in the past, and asked him questions about stuff (when they actually answered). Fact is, the customer service is about the same from vern, jason, or steve, and they all score about the same on the *******-o-meter.
Although, Jason seemed about 50% smarter than both vern or steve,
-- Joe
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wow.... what a bunch of meat heads...
Listen, fact of the matter that disclaimer HAS been on the pa site for years, i remember looking up suspensnion parts for the front of my car, i remember reading that and saying, oh maybe i shouldn't. and i didnt.
Secondly, they have no place on her car to begin with. They offer no improvement over the stock pieces aside from having new joints and bushing in them. If she was smart she would have boxed the originals in and put new bushings and ball joints in.
I'm just glad that there are still some people around who try and keep the BS from being spread down to a minimal level...
My only beef here is why PA wasn't contacted *before* any of this was posted... total BS, and a very immature way to handle things. Yes, i've been reading all of this, but it obvious either the phone conversations were weak or never took palce at all until after the post, or the customer service really did suck. In all honesty, i think that you called, didn't get the response you wanted to hear and posted it anyways. i understand the concern you have, but you should have asked all these questions about the a arms before you bought the. If there is one thing i have learned never rely on the sales guy to tell you what you really need to know. People who have bought those arms knew they weren't meant for the duty cycle that street and daily driving bring. All this has done has caused a huge **** fest, over again, a car that is controvetial at best in the looks department.
If anything it should have been posted as a warning to others, after it was resolved, and that there off road use arm was at rick, rather than a bash fest making everyone look like a ****in fool.
Listen, fact of the matter that disclaimer HAS been on the pa site for years, i remember looking up suspensnion parts for the front of my car, i remember reading that and saying, oh maybe i shouldn't. and i didnt.
Secondly, they have no place on her car to begin with. They offer no improvement over the stock pieces aside from having new joints and bushing in them. If she was smart she would have boxed the originals in and put new bushings and ball joints in.
I'm just glad that there are still some people around who try and keep the BS from being spread down to a minimal level...
My only beef here is why PA wasn't contacted *before* any of this was posted... total BS, and a very immature way to handle things. Yes, i've been reading all of this, but it obvious either the phone conversations were weak or never took palce at all until after the post, or the customer service really did suck. In all honesty, i think that you called, didn't get the response you wanted to hear and posted it anyways. i understand the concern you have, but you should have asked all these questions about the a arms before you bought the. If there is one thing i have learned never rely on the sales guy to tell you what you really need to know. People who have bought those arms knew they weren't meant for the duty cycle that street and daily driving bring. All this has done has caused a huge **** fest, over again, a car that is controvetial at best in the looks department.
If anything it should have been posted as a warning to others, after it was resolved, and that there off road use arm was at rick, rather than a bash fest making everyone look like a ****in fool.
Last edited by fb305svs; 06-24-2005 at 11:20 AM.
#192
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I am a high profile person on this site
#193
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Originally posted by fb305svs
right - ur a very well known person on this site and many others - but i wouldn't say you have much "pull" seems how most people totally disagree with your concept of what you think looks good. Your more well known for what you've done to your car than anythign else...
right - ur a very well known person on this site and many others - but i wouldn't say you have much "pull" seems how most people totally disagree with your concept of what you think looks good. Your more well known for what you've done to your car than anythign else...
Did you see that this quote was taken from the PA rep?
This post is great info for anyone on these boards so they do not buy A-arms from PA racing just as you state would be best, and we all agree, so whats your beef meathead?
#194
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Originally posted by fb305svs
wow.... what a bunch of meat heads...
wow.... what a bunch of meat heads...
[i]Listen, fact of the matter that disclaimer HAS been on the pa site for years, i remember looking up suspensnion parts for the front of my car, i remember reading that and saying, oh maybe i shouldn't. and i didnt.[/B]
[i]Secondly, they have no place on her car to begin with. They offer no improvement over the stock pieces aside from having new joints and bushing in them. If she was smart she would have boxed the originals in and put new bushings and ball joints in. .[/B]
[i]I'm just glad that there are still some people around who try and keep the BS from being spread down to a minimal level... .[/B]
[i]My only beef here is why PA wasn't contacted *before* any of this was posted... total BS, and a very immature way to handle things. Yes, i've been reading all of this, but it obvious either the phone conversations were weak or never took palce at all until after the post, or the customer service really did suck. In all honesty, i think that you called, didn't get the response you wanted to hear and posted it anyways. i understand the concern you have, but you should have asked all these questions about the a arms before you bought them ..
If there is one thing i have learned never rely on the sales guy to tell you what you really need to know. People who have bought those arms knew they weren't meant for the duty cycle that street and daily driving bring..[/B]
If there is one thing i have learned never rely on the sales guy to tell you what you really need to know. People who have bought those arms knew they weren't meant for the duty cycle that street and daily driving bring..[/B]
[i]All this has done has caused a huge **** fest, over again, a car that is controvetial at best in the looks department. [/B]
[i]If anything it should have been posted as a warning to others, after it was resolved, and that there off road use arm was at rick, rather than a bash fest making everyone look like a ****in fool. [/B]
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Originally posted by fb305svs
right - ur a very well known person on this site and many others - but i wouldn't say you have much "pull" seems how most people totally disagree with your concept of what you think looks good. Your more well known for what you've done to your car than anythign else...
right - ur a very well known person on this site and many others - but i wouldn't say you have much "pull" seems how most people totally disagree with your concept of what you think looks good. Your more well known for what you've done to your car than anythign else...
#196
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nothing is indestructable... things break... look at the spaceshuttle.. NASA has all the money it needs, the best techs in the world.. and their parts fail..
Good parts will fail at some point.. otherwise there would be no crashes in NHRA or NASCAR do you think those guys use cheap parts? i think not..
Good parts will fail at some point.. otherwise there would be no crashes in NHRA or NASCAR do you think those guys use cheap parts? i think not..
#197
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by RTFC
Shannon, If you send those things to him make sure the package is sent through "Certified mail" otherwise they may disappear forever. Make them sign for the returned parts so you have it documented they received them.
You have already documemted the evidence with pictures and have your reciept.
Shannon, If you send those things to him make sure the package is sent through "Certified mail" otherwise they may disappear forever. Make them sign for the returned parts so you have it documented they received them.
You have already documemted the evidence with pictures and have your reciept.
As a result, PA's parts work is now only done in house & the design has been reinforced further. In fact, after the conversation I had with Jason, I can't see having a problem using his products in the future! In fact, I was discussing the 82 by the end of the conversation! I believe, if the right steel had been used on my set, my car would have been able to use them sucessfully even on the street. In fact in our conversation when we were discussing replacement there was no mention of street use being unsafe for my application, nor that I misused the product. So I feel, he feels my failure was only due to the bad steel, and not misuse of the product! Since I went ahead and ordered the AJE set, I opted for a reinbursement, but after our talk, I would have felt confident in a replacement piece.
If you have any issues or questions about the products PA sells, do yourself a favor and speak to Jason directly the first time. He is in and out alot training his people, but its worth the wait. Now all this confusion and hard feelings would have been avoided if the gentleman on the phone, when I called the first time back when this thread started, would have actually taken my number & passed it on to Jason as I asked. Then this thread would have simply been the arm broke here is why and now look at how well Jason handled it!
But at least thru all this there is still a Happy ending! In the end the fact that my set was used on the street was not the reason it broke at all. (So the disclaimer for street use debate can be laid to rest!) The parts were bad and would have broken in any event.
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
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Originally posted by LT1guy
Also, I highly doubt that a mildly lowered car, driven (carefully) on the street, puts more stress on an a-arm than a car doing this (from the PA website):
Also, I highly doubt that a mildly lowered car, driven (carefully) on the street, puts more stress on an a-arm than a car doing this (from the PA website):
#199
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Originally posted by anesthes
At one point Redraif was going to bring the part to someone to inspect. I'm curious what the result of the inspection is?
At one point Redraif was going to bring the part to someone to inspect. I'm curious what the result of the inspection is?
Now, to be fair though. Both PROFAB, and pa-racing says these parts are for off-road race use only. I understand some of you are in the opinion that "it should never break". Well, your entitled to your opinion, no matter how irrational.
FACT: parts do break, and the mfg of both parts state its not for street use. I, like Redraif didnt read this until AFTER the parts were installed, but I'm not about to blame profab or paracing.
FACT: parts do break, and the mfg of both parts state its not for street use. I, like Redraif didnt read this until AFTER the parts were installed, but I'm not about to blame profab or paracing.
Now, redraif made a statement about AJE building her a setup that was going to be very strong, etc, etc. How do you know? Becaue another member told you so? 50 other members told me the profab/pa k-member was the best thing in the world. Don't ASSume anything in life.
Again my confidence in PA has been reassured seeing as how mine failed due to a bad steel application, not the parts design itself. Again if the right stuff had been used, neither Jason or I believe there would have been a problem at all!
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Originally posted by fb305svs
wow.... what a bunch of meat heads...
Listen, fact of the matter that disclaimer HAS been on the pa site for years, i remember looking up suspensnion parts for the front of my car, i remember reading that and saying, oh maybe i shouldn't. and i didnt.
wow.... what a bunch of meat heads...
Listen, fact of the matter that disclaimer HAS been on the pa site for years, i remember looking up suspensnion parts for the front of my car, i remember reading that and saying, oh maybe i shouldn't. and i didnt.
Secondly, they have no place on her car to begin with. They offer no improvement over the stock pieces aside from having new joints and bushing in them. If she was smart she would have boxed the originals in and put new bushings and ball joints in.
My only beef here is why PA wasn't contacted *before* any of this was posted... total BS, and a very immature way to handle things. Yes, i've been reading all of this, but it obvious either the phone conversations were weak or never took palce at all until after the post, or the customer service really did suck. In all honesty, i think that you called, didn't get the response you wanted to hear and posted it anyways. i understand the concern you have, but you should have asked all these questions about the a arms before you bought the. If there is one thing i have learned never rely on the sales guy to tell you what you really need to know. People who have bought those arms knew they weren't meant for the duty cycle that street and daily driving bring. All this has done has caused a huge **** fest, over again, a car that is controvetial at best in the looks department.
And I did ask before I bought them...again READ! Not my fault the guy on the phone was answered questions he was not qualified to answer. He should have forwarded me to someone else!
Actually if anything it will make people ask the question more and assume less. If that is what it brngs, good, maybe it will keep someone else from having a part fail and get hurt! In my case it was a fluke of a bad part, with bad steel, per Jason... you all have turned this around to lynch me for using the part. All I have proven is if it was a good part from the start it would have been fine and never failed!
If anything it should have been posted as a warning to others, after it was resolved, and that there off road use arm was at rick, rather than a bash fest making everyone look like a ****in fool.
Originally posted by fb305svs
right - ur a very well known person on this site and many others - but i wouldn't say you have much "pull" seems how most people totally disagree with your concept of what you think looks good. Your more well known for what you've done to your car than anythign else...
right - ur a very well known person on this site and many others - but i wouldn't say you have much "pull" seems how most people totally disagree with your concept of what you think looks good. Your more well known for what you've done to your car than anythign else...
And as far as people only knowing me for what I've done. They also know, whether it is to their taste or not, it has been made in a high quality fashion. You should read more and ASSUME less! I have helped with alot alot of tech and get emails daily asking for advise and help. So again YOU may not like the car, but your opinion is not everyones! People do respect me for what I know and have accomplished.