Can anyone tell me if its an F-body mortal sin to cut a chunk (about 1' x 1') out of a section of the k member? Is it going to loose too much strength? I need to gain the clearance for my turbo headers.

 

I dont know if this helps but it shows where I need to cut.

 

As long as you box it in and properly weld it, that shouldn't be a problem. This has been done in order to fit the LS1's A/C compressor in a third gen.

 

Right thanks for that.

Anyone tell me, or point me to whats involved in dropping the K member out totally. If i can get it out, ill heat it up and dint it in.

 

OK... just went and looked at the car. Removing the K member to mod it is out of teh question....

BUT... I think i could get an oxy down to the point that causing my problems and heat it enough to knock it in.

Does this sound like a possibility? Or is the K member steel going to be too think?

 

There's always the right way and plenty of tubular k-members to choose from

I don't think your "mod" would cause any safety problems, but to me it just seems... well.... ghetto.

then again no one would ever notice it anyway so in the end I guess it will only matter to you

 

Yeah... it seem "buy new ****" is the most common responce to most of my problems I post on this board. Unfortunatly my location does not allow it.

For something like that the initial cost + conversion loss + your taxes + our taxes + internal US freight + OS freight + internal Aust freight + customs duties + import fees + insurance = WELL over double its original value.

Anyway... ive decided to just cut up a $500USD header to try and make it fit.

 

I dont see why you dont want to just remove the K member and modify it.

Start with the car up high on tall jack stands.

1. Put a chain on your engine and support the engine with a hoist.
2. Remove your brake lines.
3. Remove nut from each tie rod end link from the spindles.
4. One side at a time, put a jack under the outer edge of the A arm, unbolt the strut nut at the top and then slowly lower the jack, sometimes a long rod comes in handy for a "just in case but rarely ever happens" instance of the spring coming out of the pocket uncontrolled.
5. Remove the six bolts that hold the K member in and lower it using the jack.

Your K member will be out. And the engine and wiring will have remained in tact.

 

yes heating it up will allow you to hit it wth a hammer and dent it in pretty easily. i have done it on a v8 conversion in a s-10.