Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

where to find wheel spacers?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Aug 2, 2005 | 09:07 AM
  #1  
bac67's Avatar
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 323
Likes: 0
From: Omaha, NE
Car: 91 Camaro
Engine: LO3 305 TBI
Transmission: 5 Speed
where to find wheel spacers?

wheres the best place to find wheel spacers..the only one i kno of is skulte.com? is there anyothers?
Reply
Old Aug 2, 2005 | 09:10 AM
  #2  
dennisbernal91z's Avatar
Supreme Member
20 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,501
Likes: 90
From: West Warwick RI, postal code: 02893
Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
EBAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!




i got all mine there. if you know what you are looking for, you can save over 100 bucks easy, on all 4.

I got a pair for 80 and another pair for 95 i think. free shipping. And all the counter bore, hub centric stuff included. Just find out what you need and go get them off ebay
Reply
Old Aug 2, 2005 | 11:49 AM
  #3  
kevinc's Avatar
Supreme Member
 
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 2,963
Likes: 3
Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
www.skulte.com is a good option. Might cost a tad more than the eBay ones, but you're trusting your life to these pieces.
Reply
Old Aug 2, 2005 | 12:30 PM
  #4  
dennisbernal91z's Avatar
Supreme Member
20 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 4,501
Likes: 90
From: West Warwick RI, postal code: 02893
Car: Building LS3, T56 Z28
Engine: LS3
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser/ 4.11
yes you are, but I have these and have seen both. They are EXACTLY the same. You really can;t go wrong. Billet aluminum is pretty much bilet aluminum. The ones I have are the same grade, and construction. All is the same, just less cost. I have herd of guys making them themselfs, and the cost for them is like 50 bucks in parts. Most of the rest is overhead. Mine have high grade studs, pressed in and are 100% billet Aluminum. with counter bore lug holes and hub centric center bores. If you can point me to one thing that makes skule more worth it, then let me know.
Reply
Old Aug 2, 2005 | 02:55 PM
  #5  
kevinc's Avatar
Supreme Member
 
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 2,963
Likes: 3
Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
If you can tell the grade of aluminum or judge the machining precision just by looking at them, you must have really really really good eyes.

You may be right about them being identical and I can't offer any empirical counterpoints.


Originally posted by dennisbernal91z
yes you are, but I have these and have seen both. They are EXACTLY the same. You really can;t go wrong. Billet aluminum is pretty much bilet aluminum. The ones I have are the same grade, and construction. All is the same, just less cost. I have herd of guys making them themselfs, and the cost for them is like 50 bucks in parts. Most of the rest is overhead. Mine have high grade studs, pressed in and are 100% billet Aluminum. with counter bore lug holes and hub centric center bores. If you can point me to one thing that makes skule more worth it, then let me know.
Reply
Old Aug 10, 2005 | 09:55 AM
  #6  
askulte's Avatar
Supporter/Moderator
 
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 888
Likes: 6
From: West Hartford, CT
Car: '89 Z28tt
Engine: Dart Little M Twin Turbo
Transmission: T56
You guys are right - you can find cheaper adapters on Ebay. I can't comment on the quality of them, but here is what the differences may be:

Without doing a full out metal analysis, it's just about impossible to tell what the quality of the aluminum used is without certs from the metal supplier. To make adapters at Ebay prices, we'd have to go with the cheapest vendors on all the base parts, which could result in counterfeit material, so we choose to work with vendors we trust over the years. Rushing through the machine work may be acceptable to some, but it's very important to get the concentricity tolerances on the studs, lug seats, ID bores, and OD circumferences perfect to eliminate vibrations. Two parts may look identical, but it's very difficult to verify without spending a lot of time measuring tolerance & certifying material & stud qualifications.

Billet aluminum is pretty much bilet aluminum.
Billet is just the form the material is in, defined as a solid chunk of metal, for use in machining or fabricating a part. You can get many different grades of aluminum in the billet form. In this case, it would be billet round cylinders of 6061 aluminum. You can also get 6061 in strips, sheets, and possibly extrusions.

. I have herd(sic) of guys making them themselfs, and the cost for them is like 50 bucks in parts. Most of the rest is overhead.
Wow - Those Ebay guys are rippin ya off if they're selling them for $85, and it only costs $50! (Just kidding, he he he!)

Sure, it's possible to make an adapter from $50 from surplus raw materials, but you also have to have the knowledge, equipment, and time to design them with the proper dimensions so the adapters will be strong & durable, then machine them, and finally inspect & verify the tolerances on the machined parts meet your design. Does the person who designed the adapters have the experience or education in designing the adapters properly? "Free" overhead might also be CNC machines in the 6 digit range, and a QC facility to inspect that everything is machined to the tolerances intended, and a living wage/benefits to the machinists. I know they make much more than I do at this point!

From:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=312957

1. Quality of the material - often the very cheap adapters may not actually be using real 6061 aluminum as stated, but a cheaper substitute that is either cast, or still machined, but not as strong. The adapter may deform under load, requiring frequent re-torquing.

2. Tolerances - we've had folks call complaining about vibrations which were traced to Ebay adapters that aren't machined perfectly. If the bolt circles for the hub and studs aren't concentric, it can result in vibrations. Also, improper machining for the studs can cause either loose studs, or the opposite, where the stud knurl is too large, resulting in the aluminum getting over-stressed when the stud is pressed in. Lugnut seat angles are important too, so the adapter gets properly torqued and seated. If it's not, the lugnut tightens on one edge of the lugnut seat, which deforms the aluminum over time, requiring re-torquing.

3. Quality of hardware - Is brand name Grade 10.9 metric or Grade 8 SAE hardware used, from reliable wholesalers or could they be uncertified counterfeit studs and lugnuts from surplus houses?

4. Customer service - Can you return or exchange them for a different size? Does the company respond quickly to make sure the customer is happy? Can you always get the same person that understands your vehicle and requirements? How quickly do you get them?

Anyways, thats where I stand We've got many customers using the Skulte adapters for road & drag racing, and probably 20x more for just street driving, without any failures or returns in the 7 years I've been doing this. It comes down to personal choice on whats important to you, and possibly your ability if you can make them yourself.

Last edited by askulte; Aug 10, 2005 at 10:13 AM.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
customblackbird
Suspension and Chassis
4
Aug 15, 2021 10:16 PM
Amillionoh7
Suspension and Chassis
24
May 24, 2020 08:01 AM
kah992
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
2
Aug 19, 2015 02:55 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:38 AM.