What started off as a simple "replace turn signal switch and investigate my high beam problem" turned to be a big ol can of worms.

The big reason I undertook this project is because the high beam switch wouldn't "click" - it's not the switches problem, but something in the turn signal stalk.

I found the problem and have no idea what to do.

On each side of the column, near the pivot point, are what appears to be 2 threaded inserts. They have threads in the inside of them, and are supposed to sit flush with the column. The insert that is causing a problem is the left one, which is where the piece of plastic that covers the base of the turn signal setup is located. It's important for that piece of plastic to sit flush with the metal in the column, because that is where the slider plastic part goes that allows the turn signal switch to push the long rod that pushes the highbeam switch. But some prev owner did "something" with the column, and that threaded insert is cross threaded and won't sit flush, which is causing the slider for the highbeam to get "off track" and screwed up.

I have a pic below which shows the insert (encircled in red).




problem fixed

ok, duh, I just put a screw in there, straightened it out, and gave it a few light hammer blows, and it was seated right....

And now that I easily bypassed the VATS system, it's time for a normal lock set that actually will stay locked without the key in the switch

 

my hi beam switch doesnt click either...how did you get to it. I mean did you remove the steering wheel or ....

Thanks, Barry

 

Indeed.
I just put a new ignition block in, and ive done hundreds over the years, but these are a pig deluxe imo.
Using a long metal rod to switch dip to high is pretty crude, that and having to use a snap -on puller to tug the wheel off??
Then making a tool to depress the metal ring, to remove a circlip??
And another to push the ring back to replace it??
And like you, i had fun with the high beam\turn stalk.
On the plus side i repaired the "key in" buzzer switch, and now have a full set of new locks.
But the bozo of the year award goes to the designer of that column.
And a special mention to Haynes for giving blurry instructions on the whole procedure.

 

The high beam switch is at the base of the column - and to get it to click, I pushed it by hand. It still doesn't click by pulling the lever - but for me, I almost never use high beams anyways, so I'm not going to sweat it. In the future, when I feel ambitious, I might find some way to position the switch closer to the metal rod, or somehow get a spacer in there - I just can't pull the lever enough to activate the switch.

R1UK - getting the wheel off is certainly a bitch without the "right" tools.. The only specialized tool I had was the universal harmonic balance puller tool (good for only the steering wheel)... To push the plate in to get the one clip out was challenging.. I got rather creative - I took an old leaf spring perch from my old mustang, and bolted it onto the column (the center hole in the perch plate was big enough for the column).. Then I put a few pieces of threaded rod in it, and used a nut on each on (on the inside of the perch plate), and then just turned the nuts on each to press in the plate.. Then swore for awhile as I tried to get the clip out with a couple of screwdrivers. Then I drank a couple beers..

After I swapped my ignition key, I no longer have to worry about the stupid VATS system - that was super easy to bypass. I just hope some thief doesn't want a rust free 6 banger firechicken I suspect they are after civics now anyways.

 

Switch is at the base of the column and usually just needs to be adjusted to work again. I bought a new one from Gm and ended up not needing it..............jt

 

I had the same problem and here is what I did. I cut the wires underneath the dash; I purchased a single pole double throw black switch from radio shack and drilled a hole in my lighter plate for the high beam low beam switch. The dealer wanted over $60 for the pivot switch and I said forget it, I solved the problem for under $5. It looks good and it works.
Lawrence

 

Some of the more hip might figure out how I fixed the problem without touching the column. I think it cost me about $5 for the fix as well.