Spohns are supposed to be welded like this on the pass. side... correct ? (small tube piece)

 

no, you should of have the smaller peice branching off connected to the bar fully, its not bad, but theres room for improvement

 

Correct. The picture below is from Spohn's website.





This picture shows a slightly different angle, http://www.spohn.net/images/PassSide8.jpg.

 

Over built, under engineered. Why didn't they bend the cross tube down to 'T' or 'Y' into the main tube? How much more time would that have chewed up?

 

thats how spohn did them, thats pretty half assed imho, when i had the guy weld mine in he welded it right to the bar fully.

much stronger

 

I actually heated that bar up and bent an arc in it so it would clear the cat. and notched the end that welds to the sfc. I thought the way Spohn reccomends was kind of cheap.

 

I had similar problems, didn't like that join... so I notched the bar and dropped it about 3/4 of an inch, it has a solid weld/contact patch now.

Another thing I ran into was having to grind the crap out of the end of the driver's side bar so it would be close enough to the pinch weld. Pain in the ***, but I'm satisfied with the result.

Perhaps it was too much cost, but I learned stuff. and that's part of what this is about. And driving it. Noticed a huge difference in drivability and hooking up, especially in wet.

 

Steve Spohn more than likely designed that tube to alleviate a stress concentration in the floor pan area. Merely welding that side tube to the main SFC does not mean you make it stronger. You could have made it worse by intensifying the stress concentration in that area above the cat. Welding that tube in the manor pictured above gives strength to that area of the sub frame and helps distribute the loading across other areas of the frame. I am pretty sure Steve knows what he is doing.

 

Spohn made the application that way ONLY as a one fits all design because of the variety of factory and aftermarket exhaust routings. It can be install laying on top like he shipped it or if you have the fabrication skills to cut and bend it around to fit your single or dual catalytic covertor setup,etc... they you can do so to make it fit better.

Here's mine.

 

huh? Then why does the driver's side come with a ( cut in the end of it so you can weld it straight on to the side of the tubular piece that follows the pinch weld. Is the floor pan on that side suffering less stress than the passenger side? I'm pretty sure it's welded that way to clear the Y-pipe/cats not to 'relieve some sort of stress on the floor pan' I call BS on your comment. My guess is you've never installed his SFCs

 

THAT looks alot better to me, and is exactly how I will be doing mine. Thanks for the comments in this thread guys.

 

Thats how I did mine, but instead of cutting and rewelding it I just heated it up and bent it.