Sway-bar alignment question
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: LA
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: Holley MPFI, AFR 195, Hot Cam=375HP
Transmission: T-56
Sway-bar alignment question
Okay so I've heard of a few people that change their sway-bar endlinks to align the sway-bar and get better results. My question is what is the optimal angle. Do you want it angled up a little or do you want it flat. Where do you measure from they are kinda curvy. I have the eibach prokit, does anyone have these and have you found a good length for your endlinks, any info is welcome thx.
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Lehigh Valley area of PA
Car: $150 82 Camaro
Engine: 406 when my ship comes in
Transmission: 6 speed Richmond (its that ship business again)
Sway-bar alignment question
Start with the weight of the vehicle on the four tires. Settle the suspension by pushing down firmly several times on each corner of the car and proceed as follows;
(1) Mount the fixed pivot points first and check that the bar rotates without binding. If the are a little tight it may take some effort to rotate the bar, if they are too tight it will take a pipe wrench to rotate the bar and you have the wrong bushings or your bar is in need of polishing in area of the bushings.
(2) After rotating the bar and checking tightness set the arms in a position as close to level as possible, but still allowing clearance for suspension travel. Travel clearance is more important than level.
(3) Firmly attach one arm to its mounting point making sure the bar is centered between the two outer mounting points.
(4) Assemble the remaining side. If it does not apply pressure to the bar or does not have more than 1/8" of clearance firmly tighten it and you are done. If it applies pressure this is called preload and can cause the car to handle differently in right and left hand turns.
(5) Preload is adjusted by shortening the metal sleeve that seperates the bushings. Only remove 1/4" at a time. If the second side is tight remove material from that sleeve. If the second side is loose, disassemly the first side and remove material from the first sleeve until it fits without applying pressure.
The difference in length from one side to the other is the result of the suspension settling over the years. Also if you are into serious cornering this should be done with the driver in the car.
(1) Mount the fixed pivot points first and check that the bar rotates without binding. If the are a little tight it may take some effort to rotate the bar, if they are too tight it will take a pipe wrench to rotate the bar and you have the wrong bushings or your bar is in need of polishing in area of the bushings.
(2) After rotating the bar and checking tightness set the arms in a position as close to level as possible, but still allowing clearance for suspension travel. Travel clearance is more important than level.
(3) Firmly attach one arm to its mounting point making sure the bar is centered between the two outer mounting points.
(4) Assemble the remaining side. If it does not apply pressure to the bar or does not have more than 1/8" of clearance firmly tighten it and you are done. If it applies pressure this is called preload and can cause the car to handle differently in right and left hand turns.
(5) Preload is adjusted by shortening the metal sleeve that seperates the bushings. Only remove 1/4" at a time. If the second side is tight remove material from that sleeve. If the second side is loose, disassemly the first side and remove material from the first sleeve until it fits without applying pressure.
The difference in length from one side to the other is the result of the suspension settling over the years. Also if you are into serious cornering this should be done with the driver in the car.
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From: Southern IL
Car: 88 GTA "Cocaine"
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snake oil
end links are the same hieght and sway bar is located in the brackets on the frame squarely and is not bent then you are GTG
Good to go
end links are the same hieght and sway bar is located in the brackets on the frame squarely and is not bent then you are GTG
Good to go
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