http://camaros.org/bellhousings.shtml

 

The throwout bearing failure is horsedust.

It doesn't provide measurements; just provides a check. I don't care if it's within 0.003", I want to know how much.

For a high-production shop, I can see that being efficient and useful. I'll leave it on the vendor's shelf.

 

This is not uncommon, on most engines as production tolerances can be .025" on bore placement. A good shop will index the cylinder bores and transmission dowels for the same reason.
The benefits of true lifters are; exact valve timing, reduced wear/less friction and blueprinted oil clearances.

 

Love mine. Of course it for a pontiac v8 and I run a saftey bell.
One of those tools that you don't need very often but when you do it is really slick!

 

Another thing to check on sbc (1 &2 piece rear seal gen1 blocks) is, with the block, looking at it from the front, where the front cam bearing/housing is and the oil plugs, is to make sure that the cam bore is centered in the block casting. You will tell just by looking on some. Some are so far off its crazy.

 

Considering the margin for error on that, even with a dial indicator and a lot of experience is probably bigger than .003 in real world conditions (the inside surface of the hole is not going to be anywhere near perfect). if you know you're within .003 (the tolerance is usually listed as .005) ALL the way around in one glance?

You can't do better than that. Especially if you're doing it IN the car.

For OEM bells, I prob wouldn't even check. But for a scattershield? The things are NEVER close.

 

Anyone can do better than that, it is just time consuming.

A check tool doesn't check for out of round either.

I don't take issue with the tool. I just prefer doing things the hard way sometimes.

 

And when using the dial indicator to check for alignment of the pilot hole with the crank C/L. Swing the indicator around to check the rear face of the bell housing. It needs to be parallel with the rear face of the block.

Found that they aren't always. Need to have the bell housing faced off in a mill to correct this.

Back to the pilot C/L to the crank C/L. At times the bell housing dowel pin holes are too large, allowing the bell housing to sit differently each time it is bolted up.

Offset pins can also be used to correct for this.

RBob.

 

The only way it wouldn't find out of round is if you only checked it in one spot. I'd still rotate the crank and check it at 4-8 positions.

Most of us have that problem or we wouldn't be here ... I'm getting better with age though