Suspension Rebuild/Solution Noise Problem
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 3
From: Torrance, CA
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: THE LT1 SWAP SHALL BEGIN!!!!
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: LSD! =(
Suspension Rebuild/Solution Noise Problem
Here are my problems:
(Problem) When I turn on any sharp turns I can hear a crackling sound like something is about to snap
(Problem) When I come to a stop at a redlight or just stop while the car is on D (drive) I hear this boiling noise/ loud skeay vibration noise coming from the front, I have replaced the serpentine belt with a new one and the noise is still present
(Problem) When Im driving and go over any bump or dip I hear this noise that sounds like a chain is being tossed, I remember looking under the car when I changed the O2 sensor and saw a cracked bushing or something that is plastic and it was cracked that appeared to be an important suspension peice.by the way there were not chains to make this noise
(Problem) In my opinion I think my Camaro is too low and needs to be higher about 1/2 an inch.
Solution!
(ANYONE PLEASE FEEL FREE TO CORRECT ME OR ADD ANYTHING TO MY SOLUTION! )
Purchasing a new FRONT END REBUILD KIT
Price: $368.00
Details:
Spohn Performance is known for quality parts, our front end rebuild kit is no exception. Our kit uses only genuine MOOG components, we won't settle for cheap overseas parts!
Our front end rebuild kit includes:
Moog Centerlink
Moog Idler Arm
Moog Inner Tie Rod Ends (Qty. 2)
Moog Outter Tie Rod Ends (Qty. 2)
Moog Lower Ball Joints (Qty. 2)
Spohn Extreme-Duty Tie Rod Adjusters (Qty. 2)
Everything you need to make your front end better then it was the day it rolled off the assembly line.
NEW: In place of the standard Moog tie rod adjuster sleeves, our kit now includes our Extreme Duty adjusters. Constructed from 15/16" x .156" wall hex tubing, these are the strongest tie rod adjusters on the market!
Brand new Bushings!
Item: Poly-Total-8292
$179.95
Total Kit for 1982-1992 F-Body. This total kit supplies you with every polyurethane bushing needed to do your entire car.
Rear Lower Control Arm Bushings
Panhard Bar Bushings
Ball Joint Boots
Torque Arm Bushing
Tie Rod Boots
Front Sway Bar End Links
Front Sway Bar Bushings
Rear Sway Bar End Links
Rear Sway Bar Bushings
Transmission Mount
Front Control Arm Bushings
Front Struts
Price: $139.00 (each)
Chevy/Pontiac: 1982-92 Camaro/Firebird, GR-2 series, front, gas strut
Sold/Priced in Pairs
Details:
This GR-2 strut utilizes velocity sensitive valving to respond to changing road conditions for a smooth comfortable ride. It features sintered iron pistons and guide rods for strength, have chrome hardened piston rods for added durability, and seamless cylinders and eye rings to eliminate typical weak points.
FRONT SPRINGS!
Item: Moog-001
$110.00
If you're looking to replace your worn out sagging springs, but don't want to lower your car with aftermarket lowering springs, this is the solution. Quality OEM IROC style replacement coil springs from Moog.
Kit includes (2) front springs and (2) rear springs
Note: These are not the progressive rate cargo springs that increase rear ride height!
Spring Rates:
Front - 649 @ load height
This should fix the problem correct?... do you guys think im doing too much? or not enough ?please let me know
(Problem) When I turn on any sharp turns I can hear a crackling sound like something is about to snap
(Problem) When I come to a stop at a redlight or just stop while the car is on D (drive) I hear this boiling noise/ loud skeay vibration noise coming from the front, I have replaced the serpentine belt with a new one and the noise is still present
(Problem) When Im driving and go over any bump or dip I hear this noise that sounds like a chain is being tossed, I remember looking under the car when I changed the O2 sensor and saw a cracked bushing or something that is plastic and it was cracked that appeared to be an important suspension peice.by the way there were not chains to make this noise
(Problem) In my opinion I think my Camaro is too low and needs to be higher about 1/2 an inch.
Solution!
(ANYONE PLEASE FEEL FREE TO CORRECT ME OR ADD ANYTHING TO MY SOLUTION! )
Purchasing a new FRONT END REBUILD KIT
Price: $368.00
Details:
Spohn Performance is known for quality parts, our front end rebuild kit is no exception. Our kit uses only genuine MOOG components, we won't settle for cheap overseas parts!
Our front end rebuild kit includes:
Moog Centerlink
Moog Idler Arm
Moog Inner Tie Rod Ends (Qty. 2)
Moog Outter Tie Rod Ends (Qty. 2)
Moog Lower Ball Joints (Qty. 2)
Spohn Extreme-Duty Tie Rod Adjusters (Qty. 2)
Everything you need to make your front end better then it was the day it rolled off the assembly line.
NEW: In place of the standard Moog tie rod adjuster sleeves, our kit now includes our Extreme Duty adjusters. Constructed from 15/16" x .156" wall hex tubing, these are the strongest tie rod adjusters on the market!
Brand new Bushings!
Item: Poly-Total-8292
$179.95
Total Kit for 1982-1992 F-Body. This total kit supplies you with every polyurethane bushing needed to do your entire car.
Rear Lower Control Arm Bushings
Panhard Bar Bushings
Ball Joint Boots
Torque Arm Bushing
Tie Rod Boots
Front Sway Bar End Links
Front Sway Bar Bushings
Rear Sway Bar End Links
Rear Sway Bar Bushings
Transmission Mount
Front Control Arm Bushings
Front Struts
Price: $139.00 (each)
Chevy/Pontiac: 1982-92 Camaro/Firebird, GR-2 series, front, gas strut
Sold/Priced in Pairs
Details:
This GR-2 strut utilizes velocity sensitive valving to respond to changing road conditions for a smooth comfortable ride. It features sintered iron pistons and guide rods for strength, have chrome hardened piston rods for added durability, and seamless cylinders and eye rings to eliminate typical weak points.
FRONT SPRINGS!
Item: Moog-001
$110.00
If you're looking to replace your worn out sagging springs, but don't want to lower your car with aftermarket lowering springs, this is the solution. Quality OEM IROC style replacement coil springs from Moog.
Kit includes (2) front springs and (2) rear springs
Note: These are not the progressive rate cargo springs that increase rear ride height!
Spring Rates:
Front - 649 @ load height
This should fix the problem correct?... do you guys think im doing too much? or not enough ?please let me know
Last edited by Psycho_91Camaro; Nov 29, 2005 at 09:17 PM.
Moderator
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 7,015
Likes: 2
From: Schererville , IN
Car: 91 GTA, 91 Formula, 89 TTA
Engine: all 225+ RWHP
Transmission: all OD
Axle/Gears: Always the good ones
Get a wonderbar of your car doesnt have one already.
Check behind the steering box on the frame for cracking.
Get new strut tower bushin/bearing plates
later
Jeremy
Check behind the steering box on the frame for cracking.
Get new strut tower bushin/bearing plates
later
Jeremy
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 615
Likes: 0
From: Philly, PA
Car: 91 RS, 95 Z28
Engine: 305 tbi, 350 lt1
Transmission: 4l60, 4l60e
Axle/Gears: monsterous 2.73s in both
The snapping noise and chain rattling noise sounds EXACTLY like the problem I had. Also, my car seemed soft in the front. I was really fed up with it and was going to purchase $600 suspension to fix it. I finally took a look at some of the bushings, turns out, my sway bar bushings were GONE (<a href = "https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php?s=&threadid=329933">Check it out in this post)</a>. The rubber was deteriorated so badly that I could shake the endlink bolts with my hand (and when driving, this is the chain rattling sound). I took a trip to Autozone, paid $10 for Moog replacement endlinks ($4.99 a piece) cut out the old ones (<a href="https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php?s=&threadid=330173">This is the post of my retard way of doing it)</a>, and bolted in the new ones. FIXED EVERYTHING!!! No more snapping noises, no more chain sounds, and the car drives 10x better. If you have the green for the front end rebuild, go for it. I didn't, and the $10 fix saved me and my wallet.
PS About ride height, my car was about 25.5 on the right and 25.75 on the left, which was really low. I haven't done and measurement, but I don't need to. It looks slightly higher and feels 5x more stable.
PS About ride height, my car was about 25.5 on the right and 25.75 on the left, which was really low. I haven't done and measurement, but I don't need to. It looks slightly higher and feels 5x more stable.
Last edited by sully91rs; Nov 25, 2005 at 10:48 AM.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 3
From: Torrance, CA
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: THE LT1 SWAP SHALL BEGIN!!!!
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: LSD! =(
Oh shieza! Thats exactly whats cracked
maybe ill just get the front end rebuild kit and the bushings. Thanks alot!!!!
maybe ill just get the front end rebuild kit and the bushings. Thanks alot!!!!
Originally posted by sully91rs
The snapping noise and chain rattling noise sounds EXACTLY like the problem I had. Also, my car seemed soft in the front. I was really fed up with it and was going to purchase $600 suspension to fix it. I finally took a look at some of the bushings, turns out, my sway bar bushings were GONE (<a href = "https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php?s=&threadid=329933">Check it out in this post)</a>. The rubber was deteriorated so badly that I could shake the endlink bolts with my hand (and when driving, this is the chain rattling sound). I took a trip to Autozone, paid $10 for Moog replacement endlinks ($4.99 a piece) cut out the old ones (<a href="https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php?s=&threadid=330173">This is the post of my retard way of doing it)</a>, and bolted in the new ones. FIXED EVERYTHING!!! No more snapping noises, no more chain sounds, and the car drives 10x better. If you have the green for the front end rebuild, go for it. I didn't, and the $10 fix saved me and my wallet.
PS About ride height, my car was about 25.5 on the right and 25.75 on the left, which was really low. I haven't done and measurement, but I don't need to. It looks slightly higher and feels 5x more stable.
The snapping noise and chain rattling noise sounds EXACTLY like the problem I had. Also, my car seemed soft in the front. I was really fed up with it and was going to purchase $600 suspension to fix it. I finally took a look at some of the bushings, turns out, my sway bar bushings were GONE (<a href = "https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php?s=&threadid=329933">Check it out in this post)</a>. The rubber was deteriorated so badly that I could shake the endlink bolts with my hand (and when driving, this is the chain rattling sound). I took a trip to Autozone, paid $10 for Moog replacement endlinks ($4.99 a piece) cut out the old ones (<a href="https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php?s=&threadid=330173">This is the post of my retard way of doing it)</a>, and bolted in the new ones. FIXED EVERYTHING!!! No more snapping noises, no more chain sounds, and the car drives 10x better. If you have the green for the front end rebuild, go for it. I didn't, and the $10 fix saved me and my wallet.
PS About ride height, my car was about 25.5 on the right and 25.75 on the left, which was really low. I haven't done and measurement, but I don't need to. It looks slightly higher and feels 5x more stable.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 73
From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
If you want to save some cash you can pull your stuff out and just replace the parts that are worn-usually centerlink, balljoints, idler arm. You probably don't really need to replace everything.
If those are KYB GR2 struts you can get them at tirerack for $54 each.
Coleman racing can sell you some plain-jane solid adjuster sleeves for around $25 shipped. You'll just want to paint them before you put them on.
The springs are a good deal but you may find that the ride height increases a little more than expected.
Pull the cap off the top of your strut mounts and check them. Replacing them adds another $150 or so.
If you've got the green though, go for it.
If those are KYB GR2 struts you can get them at tirerack for $54 each.
Coleman racing can sell you some plain-jane solid adjuster sleeves for around $25 shipped. You'll just want to paint them before you put them on.
The springs are a good deal but you may find that the ride height increases a little more than expected.
Pull the cap off the top of your strut mounts and check them. Replacing them adds another $150 or so.
If you've got the green though, go for it.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 615
Likes: 0
From: Philly, PA
Car: 91 RS, 95 Z28
Engine: 305 tbi, 350 lt1
Transmission: 4l60, 4l60e
Axle/Gears: monsterous 2.73s in both
Originally posted by Psycho_91Camaro
Oh shieza! Thats exactly whats cracked
maybe ill just get the front end rebuild kit and the bushings. Thanks alot!!!!
Oh shieza! Thats exactly whats cracked
maybe ill just get the front end rebuild kit and the bushings. Thanks alot!!!!
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 3
From: Torrance, CA
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: THE LT1 SWAP SHALL BEGIN!!!!
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: LSD! =(
found the part number from my work PEP BOYS
front
part#: SL69 SWAY BAR REPAIR KIT
and the rear sway bar repair kit is
part#: SL90
front
part#: SL69 SWAY BAR REPAIR KIT
and the rear sway bar repair kit is
part#: SL90
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 3
From: Torrance, CA
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: THE LT1 SWAP SHALL BEGIN!!!!
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: LSD! =(
Cool got em!! I visited a local gas station and spoke with the service manager and he said he would install em for $25.00 both sides!!! how cool is that?
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 3
From: Torrance, CA
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: THE LT1 SWAP SHALL BEGIN!!!!
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: LSD! =(
**** yes!! got them done!!! camaro drives great! NO CRACKING NOISES OR CHAIN NOISES!!!!!! yes!!!! but now I have a new problem and the heater valve is leaking... well not the valve itself but the heater fitting thing that goes into the intake manifold radiator fluid is leaking out of there..... and I need to replace that fitting anyone know what the correct term is on that????
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,576
Likes: 30
From: Harford County, MD
Car: camaro sportcoupe
Engine: 7.0L
Transmission: G-Force GF5R
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"
Originally posted by Psycho_91Camaro
Cool got em!! I visited a local gas station and spoke with the service manager and he said he would install em for $25.00 both sides!!! how cool is that?
Cool got em!! I visited a local gas station and spoke with the service manager and he said he would install em for $25.00 both sides!!! how cool is that?
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 615
Likes: 0
From: Philly, PA
Car: 91 RS, 95 Z28
Engine: 305 tbi, 350 lt1
Transmission: 4l60, 4l60e
Axle/Gears: monsterous 2.73s in both
True, if the endlinks aren't rusted to hell.
Mine were COMPLETELY rusted, <a href="https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php?s=&threadid=329933">see in this post</a>.
The cutting made the removal a big pain in the ***.
The unremovable rusted bolts was a surprise. Not realizing they wouldnt just unbolt, I wasted 15 mins with rust penetrator and unscrewing the nut to discover the sleeve was rusted to the bolt. I resorted to cutting, but for the left side all I had with me was a hack saw. Took about 20 mins to cut. For the right side I got a sawzaw and it took less than 5 mins. Altogether, including the surprises, took about an hour.
STILL, $60 ($50 labor + $9.98 parts) to remove the problems Psycho is talking about, WELL WORTH it.
Mine were COMPLETELY rusted, <a href="https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php?s=&threadid=329933">see in this post</a>.
The cutting made the removal a big pain in the ***.
The unremovable rusted bolts was a surprise. Not realizing they wouldnt just unbolt, I wasted 15 mins with rust penetrator and unscrewing the nut to discover the sleeve was rusted to the bolt. I resorted to cutting, but for the left side all I had with me was a hack saw. Took about 20 mins to cut. For the right side I got a sawzaw and it took less than 5 mins. Altogether, including the surprises, took about an hour.
STILL, $60 ($50 labor + $9.98 parts) to remove the problems Psycho is talking about, WELL WORTH it.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 3
From: Torrance, CA
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: THE LT1 SWAP SHALL BEGIN!!!!
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: LSD! =(
Originally posted by sully91rs
True, if the endlinks aren't rusted to hell.
Mine were COMPLETELY rusted, <a href="https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php?s=&threadid=329933">see in this post</a>.
The cutting made the removal a big pain in the ***.
The unremovable rusted bolts was a surprise. Not realizing they wouldnt just unbolt, I wasted 15 mins with rust penetrator and unscrewing the nut to discover the sleeve was rusted to the bolt. I resorted to cutting, but for the left side all I had with me was a hack saw. Took about 20 mins to cut. For the right side I got a sawzaw and it took less than 5 mins. Altogether, including the surprises, took about an hour.
STILL, $60 ($50 labor + $9.98 parts) to remove the problems Psycho is talking about, WELL WORTH it.
True, if the endlinks aren't rusted to hell.
Mine were COMPLETELY rusted, <a href="https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php?s=&threadid=329933">see in this post</a>.
The cutting made the removal a big pain in the ***.
The unremovable rusted bolts was a surprise. Not realizing they wouldnt just unbolt, I wasted 15 mins with rust penetrator and unscrewing the nut to discover the sleeve was rusted to the bolt. I resorted to cutting, but for the left side all I had with me was a hack saw. Took about 20 mins to cut. For the right side I got a sawzaw and it took less than 5 mins. Altogether, including the surprises, took about an hour.
STILL, $60 ($50 labor + $9.98 parts) to remove the problems Psycho is talking about, WELL WORTH it.
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