proper jackstand location up front & alignment issue
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,975
Likes: 2
From: Indianapolis
Car: 1991 Z28 (sold)
proper jackstand location up front & alignment issue
i need to examine the front steering and suspension, im wondering if i should place the jackstands under the sway bar mounts. i need to be able to turn the wheels while its jacked up.
bad idea or not?
about the alignment: the steering wheel is turned to the left while the car is going straight. when i straighten the steering wheel the car pulls to the right. any suggestions would be helpful. the drivers side front wheel hit up against the curb but not as badly as the rear wheel
im also getting popping noises near full lock when the car is moving up an incline
thanks
bad idea or not?
about the alignment: the steering wheel is turned to the left while the car is going straight. when i straighten the steering wheel the car pulls to the right. any suggestions would be helpful. the drivers side front wheel hit up against the curb but not as badly as the rear wheel
im also getting popping noises near full lock when the car is moving up an incline
thanks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 73
From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
You'll probably want to place jackstands under the a arms near the ball joint (but not on the ball joint). This will allow you to jack it up with the suspension loaded. Your problems may not be as aparent if the wheels are dropped at their lowest point of suspension travel.
I wouldn't jack under the sway bar mounts. Can bugger up one of the sway bar brackets.
I wouldn't jack under the sway bar mounts. Can bugger up one of the sway bar brackets.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 73
From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
As long as the jack's not touching the ball joint you'll be fine. I usually place mine on the outer most part under the spring pocket. You may need to jack under the k-member then drop it onto the stands.
Popping noise could likely be your idler arm/ball joints. Any movement in the vertical direction is bad. Same with most other pieces.
Popping noise could likely be your idler arm/ball joints. Any movement in the vertical direction is bad. Same with most other pieces.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 544
Likes: 2
From: Aiken, SC
Car: 91 Z/28, 89 RS Race Car
Engine: 305 stock / ZZ4 AFR 195 9.7:1
Transmission: T5 / t10 / Jerico
Axle/Gears: 10blt w 3.42, 9 in w /3.80 DL
As for the steering wheel not being centered...
After you have your car safely supported on the jack stands, go under there and measure from the center pivot point of the pitman arm to the grese fitting on the idler arm where it connects to the center link. Then measure from the center piviot of the idler arm to the grease fitting on the pitman arm where it connects to the center link.
Keep turning the steering wheel back and forth until these two measurements are the same. You are looking for an X with equal lengths.
When you find this spot, that is where your steering needs to be centered. Lock the steering wheel and then set toe with the adjuster sleeves.
Most shops will set toe without centering the steering and you will not get equal resuls from right to lef and acckerman will be effected.
After you have your car safely supported on the jack stands, go under there and measure from the center pivot point of the pitman arm to the grese fitting on the idler arm where it connects to the center link. Then measure from the center piviot of the idler arm to the grease fitting on the pitman arm where it connects to the center link.
Keep turning the steering wheel back and forth until these two measurements are the same. You are looking for an X with equal lengths.
When you find this spot, that is where your steering needs to be centered. Lock the steering wheel and then set toe with the adjuster sleeves.
Most shops will set toe without centering the steering and you will not get equal resuls from right to lef and acckerman will be effected.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,975
Likes: 2
From: Indianapolis
Car: 1991 Z28 (sold)
one thing i noticed with the car in the air is that the passenger side wheel has noticeable toe out while the drivers side looks relatively straight. i couldnt get the suspension to compress to ride height when i put the jackstands under the A-arms, but that just because the jackstands couldnt slide outwards to allow the cross member to drop down. im going to have to take it to a shop to get a computerized alignment so i'll make sure they center the steering wheel.
about the ball joints. i am able to tilt the drivers side wheel (the one that hit the curb) more than the passenger side so i guess i damaged the ball joint or bearing....im not experienced enough to tell. lol this will be the first time ive taken the car to a shop ever
about the ball joints. i am able to tilt the drivers side wheel (the one that hit the curb) more than the passenger side so i guess i damaged the ball joint or bearing....im not experienced enough to tell. lol this will be the first time ive taken the car to a shop ever
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 73
From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
The shop will be able to tell you if any of your suspension pieces need to be replaced. Have them do an inspection first, then decide if you want to replace the pieces yourself or have them do it (if any are bad). You'll still have to get it aligned after new parts are installed, but may save some money. Let us know what you find out.
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