when i leave on the nitrous or on motor wth trans brake the car rolls to the right really bad. I have a 9'' ford with a bmr torque arm camp engineering 3 way adj shocks no sway bar and bmr pan hard bar. the left front tire 8-10 inches in air and right 3-5 inches any suggestions?

Have the rear sway bar on there?

If not, I'd get something like this...

http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1437

That will help your car from rolling over to the right and keep your car laucnhing dead straight, as long as you set the bar up right.

When you launch, the driveshaft forces the rear counterclockwise, and the body clockwise, making the right rear tire want to leave the ground, while planting the left rear. You can try airbags, and preload the right rear side with more pressure. I would try the airbags first. I'm sure they will help. What 60' times are you laying down now?

i woudl get an anti roll bar. better then an airbag.

Anti roll is definatley better, but the air bag is less expensive, and less time consuming, considering the welding and all.

before any of that get subframe connectors..... with a good amount of power our cars drive like sponges. stiffening the frame makes a HUUUGE differnce and this is cheaper and easier then a roll cage.

The Spohn one just bolts right in.

I was refering to an anti roll bar. BTW, where in Pa. are you located?

who makes the one above this post?

Check with Spohn first. If not, then, I know Jegs has them, or here:

http://www.wolferacecraft.com/default.aspx

You will want the sway bar like bmr or the spohn unit. Or you will be doing alot more fabrication and losing the stock tank.

Yea, they are pretty much for a dedicated race car. I would imagine the exhaust will be in the way too.

i have 3" exhaust on the car ,i like the sphon set up its pretty trick, i watch david wolfes car go 7.53 at bradenton on radials

Thats what I figured when ya said welded in.

I'm just south of Philly actually.

thunder racing has a pretty good drag race factory replacement sway bar. bolt-in simplicity if thats what you're looking for.

I do agree that putting a sway bar back on is where I'd start.

and if you don't have sfc's with all your other mods, then... ARE YOU NUTS???

When your profile said Upland, I thought you were in my neck of the woods. Is Upland a town, or your geographical description..LOL. I'm in the W/B Scranton area. BTW, my goof on the anti roll bar. You actually posted the Spohn thread. It was LETZ RUN that mentioned the anti roll bar. I got mixed up.

I agree. When I installed my 9" rear, I scrapped the original sway bar. Without it 60s suffered. Then I bought a S/T sway bar from Jegs, and it made all the difference in the world. I'm eventually going to figure out a way to preload the right side.

radialflyer, what are your 60' times. Pretty stellar, I'll bet with air under the front wheels.

Upland is a actual town that is the second oldest in the states (founded in 1609!) If you ever heard of umm *cough* Chester *cough* thats is more or less where I live. Even better desc. is do ya know where 476 and 95 meet.. Well I'm about 10 blocks from there.

believe it or not they are not great on motor 1.75 and on nitrous 1.60 they suck, and i do have frame connectors and a 8 point roll bar soon i will finish the cage

different length sway bar links work great. I played a bit with mine. Took a couple different lengths of tube and bolts to the track with me. Swapped between rounds to see what did what. Don't remember my final lengths, but they ended different from one side to the other...

- best of 1.66 60ft, consistent 1.6X-1.70, all on 17's.

My 60's are 1.57. I have stock "boxed'' LCAS, with solid bushings, Spohn antisquat brackets, Jegs SFCs, tubular panhard rod, and CE drag shocks. My TQ arm is stock as well, except for a poly bushing. My swaybar is pretty much a stock style Suspension Techniques. It was the least expensive one I could buy. The front suspension is stock, with no swaybar. I cant wait to see what my new converter does this month. Shagwell, thanks for the info. You would'nt happen to have any pics of your set up?

I'll get some new pics this weekend...

kinda like this?




These are NA runs, my 60ft times NA range between 1.48-1.52 (i run high 6s in the 1/8th and high 10s in the 1/4 NA), I am not running a sway bar on teh front or on the back, i am running airbags and 12 way adjustable QA1s, 8pt bar, and subframes, it runs really well but does torque to the right however playing with the shocks and air pressure in the airbags you can gain control of it 'somewhat' haha, u do need a swaybar on the rear, a drag anti roll bar as said above is your best choice if u are into the straight line stuff. good luck with everything.

MJ

just putting more air pressure in the right rear than in the left may help u out. just my

Mine did the same thing. Buddy of mine said "get the anti rolll bar". We'll, I'm a cheap bastard and bought an air bag for the right rear. Problem solved. I got a spare set of rear springs, and the air bag used for $25. It has been the second best suspension mod my car has, next to slicks of course. 1.57 60' in a manual car. Still spinning, so a 1.4x isn't out of the question. Good luck.

I'm a cheap bastard too, hence the all "homemade motorsports" suspension. - I just can't justify buying anything I can build. - Anyhow, you can pick up a decent factory sway bar and all the hardware at any junkyard for about $20... - I'm running my factory WS6 bar. I am running slightly different length end-links to pre-load the bar a bit though...

Having been through all phases of discussion I can tell you first hand NOTHING even compares to what the wolfe craft anti roll bar-or roll bar of that same design does over the rest.

I went through 2 factory anti roll bars and used different length bolts/sleeves trying to preload right side since body roll was as bad as the iroc in picture above. Then added air bags, even with pass pumped upto 50psi body roll was better but still car was tweaking to the pass side and at times would want to drive itself right.

Finally antied up the funds for a true drag racing anti roll bar and the pic/results speak for themselves....NO body roll what so ever which really tightened up the R/T's and 60's throughout a days event no matter what track I was on. Just be forewarned if going to this style it is recommended using a stock length tq arm so chasis can absorb more of the hit as opposed to making the tires do all the work.

I was on a budget and after going through every aspect and spending money on items that went to the scrap heap searching for the right solution I needed, so your "cheap azz/tight budget" almost always ends up costing you more than doing it right the first time...been there done that over the years trying to be cheap and get real results until I finally had a light bulb upstairs turn on. You wanna know how they say it:

"The only people that can afford to be cheap is people with alot of money-they can afford to do it twice"

I would appreciate it. I would like to see how your sway bar is modified.

IHI, what can one look forward to, if they plan on installing an antiroll bar, such as the Wolfe Craft? What kind of issues will you run into as far as the exhaust system? Lets say someone with an exhaust in the stock location.

I cannot answer that since my car had stock exhaust for aboaut 1 day before I went true duals years ago.

The unit itself mounts under the rear diff and the arms attach to the rear sub frames so if any exhaust runs by there it may be a problem. If ther are any pictures of cars with stock exhaust back in that area I could tell you right away if it'd be a problem or not.

I found two in the exhaust board. Mind taking a look?

and one more

Found this one right on Wolfes website. I imagine it would work. I'll call and ask them, just to be positive. Looks like a big ol 4" system to boot.

Yep, they're stuffin school bus exhaust in there so stock stuff iwl fit with no problems

I do agree that for all-out launch, an aftermarket, race-built anit-roll is the best way to solve body roll. I got what I wanted, but I'm not hanging the front end in the breeze(...as of yet...)- It picks up, but only an inch or two.
- The mods are just the length of the sway bar end-links. One is like 1/2 shorter than the other(via cut-off sleeve and different bolt), thus slightly pre-loading the bar. I may go to an aftermarket unit in the new chassis, but I'll probably just build it as I did the one in my old mans blown 68 camaro(1.19 60ft @ 63mph from a dead idle). - since my car is still a true street machine, I don't want to sacrifice ride/handling just for a perfect 60ft....

which side needs to be 1/2" shorter to pre-load the chassis?

drivers side.