search down, google pisses me off , any one got some pics


carter

Not my car but I've done similar. This is as much as you can "tub" a third gen. How much of a tub do you want? If you want a pro street look, that requires doing a complete back half.

thats about what i was looking for, i dun know what kind of a tub, it may be just a small one or i may mod the rear. i dunno. all help is appriciated

How much wider a wheel/tire can you use with the tub? And what would one expect to pay to get that done?

Jason

I've got a MT 29.5 x 10.5 ET Drag squeezed into my wheel wells mounted on 10" rims with 5.5" backspace. The tire has a sidewall width of 13.1". The rear of my car is very light so the back end sits high enough that the tires don't rub the fenders.

A similar type tire but in the ET street line would be the 28x13.5 or the 30x12.5
The street version is either a P325/50R15 or P315/60R15

So you can fit 315 tires with this?

Is this a function of the fact that when you do turns you are typically doing it at parking lot speeds?

Thanks,
Jason

Theoretically if you do the inner fender modifications, you could probably fit 315's but I won't say yes or no. It depends on your backspacing, depends on your ride height. Depends on exactly whose 315 tire you use.

I'm just saying the 315 tire is similar in size to the slicks I currently use.

My slicks: MT 29.5 x 10.5
Sidewall width 13.1"
Tread width 10.2"
Tire height 29.9"

MT ET Street radial - 315
Sidewall width 13.4"
Tread width 11"
Tire height 30"

MT ET Street radial - 325
Sidewall width 13"
Tread width 11"
Tire height 28"

The 325's will probably be an easier fit. Maximum tire size isn't about width. You want to squeeze the tallest tire possible inside the fenders since that will give you the best front to back contact patch on the ground. Width will just be a limiting factor depending on how wide the fenders are. There are low 10 second cars running on a 30 x 9 slick. Once you get the tall tire under the fenders, change the diff gearing to best suit your application. For drag racing, the gear/tire combination should have you crossing the finish line at or just before your shift point.

Having 30" tall tires and 2.73 gears will be very slow off the line but could have a 150+ mph top speed on the highway. Changing the gears to 4.56 will get you off the line quicker but will dramatically reduce the top speed. Getting off the line quicker will lower an ET on the dragstrip.

For my car, I only use MPH for fine tuning since MPH will indicate how much HP the engine makes. The faster I can accellerate without losing traction, the quicker I will go.

Considering that lefts and rights are higher on my priority list than 1/4 mile times a wider patch is more desired. I did learn some stuff though. Any sense of how much big the patch is? Are you cut inwards a couple of inches or more like 5 or 6?

no, you run into the rear frame rail.

So you cut the inner fender well and then patch it flush with the frame rail?
How much more room does this give?
And is the fender well what you hit or rub against anyway. Is the outside more a problem or the inside?

If corners are your interest you can go up to a 315 Kumho V710 in the rear. In order to do this you need to carefully choose the back space and ride height. You will need to roll the fenders and use a rod ended PHB to keep the rear centered in the corners. Poly will have too much deflection.

Try contacting them to see if this is available since it sounds like what you need

Or if you want extreme, then THIS is what your after

EXTREME EXTREME EXTREME EXTREME!!!!!
thanks those are the ref. pics i hvae been looking for

and is why I have them saved to the computer. I'll waste my money first doing a "mini tub" since I dont like big tired cars-too easy-but one day I'll tire of adding more pwr and fighting traction on hot days or amount of tires I go through a month and bite the bullet for a "tub job"

I did a similiar rework to my 82 rear spring towers and relocated the spring purches on stock 10 bolt. I also added spring buckets with ride height adjustment bolts. It results in 1 1/2" of additional space per side from the stock 10 bolt drum brakes backing plates to the frame. My next project is to rework the rear wheel wells by cutting the well even with the frame and at its highest point of attachment to the body and add a mini tub. The goal is to use 315/35 x 17 tires and 11" x 17" wheels on a narrowed 12 bolt.

That mini tub kit looks great. Anyone with a bit of skill can make the same thing but the kit looks promising.

The extreme is really extreme. As much as I'd like the full tub/back half done to my car, I really don't need it. As much as my car is a full race car and could never be made street legal again, it's hacked up enough to be functional. Making it pretty looks good and a clean car gets through tech easier but pretty doesn't make it go any faster.