The crossmember, above the panhard bar, with three bolts in one end (attached to car on driver side) and one big bolt on pass side (attaches where panhard bar attaches -

1) what is this called?
2) what does it do? I'm guessing it just ties one side of car to other, since it doesn't attach to anything but frame.

I ask because the big bolt (pass side) is rusted solid - I've been spraying it with PB Blaster and beating it with a sledge hammer for 2 days, and it doesn't budge. It's rusted inside the sleeve to the member - the bolt will turn when I rotate the member, so it's free of the bracket on pass side.

Any suggestions on how to get it out? No room to saw - reciprocating won't get in there. Cutting wheel won't get in there. Cutting through on the inside with torch won't work - would still have two ends stuck through the bracket. No room to ghet a drill in there and drill it out. I'm outta ideas .... help!

 

OK - nevermind! It figures that 30 minutes AFTER I post this the PB Blaster would kick in and break that sucker loose!

I would still like to know the name of that crossmember, and it's purpose if anyone would like to chime in.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...nhard-bar.html
hope this helps

 

why remove it it weighs mabe 5lbs not worth it to remove it. it is to spread the forces pushing on the PKR bracket to both frame rails just like a Wonderbar does for the steering box. It takes the twisting motion off of the frame rail the bracket is mounted to and turns it into a sideways force on the other rail. makes the whole rear suspention MUCH stronger.

 

i just put that thread up because it showed what is called i would no way remove it myself i just remember read that post and knew it showed what it was called

 

No, I wouldn't permanently remove it either - I just needed it out of the way for the day - it was welded solid with 15 years of Yankee rust - I'm doing a fuel pump (how much fun am I having?).

Anyway, I got it off, and thanks - the name "track bar" was what I heard before and couldn't remember.

 

you are having all types of fun then . after i took my tank out i cut an access hole out of the floor so i would not have to drop everything again on one car i had. on the other i cut it with the tank in with a sawzall , but a jig saw would have work better. i have also seen people do it with a die grinder. i have seen the effect of useing a torch blew my neighbor about ten feet out the back hatch.

 

Well, I thought about cutting the access door - but figured that would be one more thing I'd mess up. This is my 2nd pump install (the other on a different car), so I pretty much have it down to a science now. The pump actually still worked, my oil pressure sending unit was bad - but I decided that with 170,000 miles, I might as well get it done too since the weather was nice, and I had the whole day. With the exception of beating that bolt out, it was a 6 hour job by myself - 2 hours better than my first time. Doesn't matter much, in the end my fuel pressure regulator is bad too, so I'm still not going anywhere today

 

the reson i cut an access hole was after 2 pumps in 2 months i got tired of removeing all the other crap. come to find the pump was not the problem. sold car since never got running right after changing all senors,computor,injectors would idle but when give gas would die after 1000 plus in parts got tired of it.

 

I hear ya - I'm about at that point with mine. No matter what I do, I have a fuel issue - it runs, but not great, bogs, stumbles, dies in a turn or hard braking, sometimes runs well at wot, sometimes not, and fuel pressure never stays steady. As much as I hate to, I'm gonna have to pay someone else to F*** it up now - I've done all the damage I can do.