susspension upgrades
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Flowood,MS
Car: 87 IROC Z
Engine: 5.7 L98 TPI
Transmission: 700r4,2500 stall
Axle/Gears: G80,10 bolt 3.42's
susspension upgrades
Wanted to know what you guys thought about suspension mods.Which one would you do first?Lower controll arms,tourqe arm,sub frame connrcters,panhard rod,wonder bar,or strut tower brace.I have already rebuilt the whole front end and ive heard Irocs come with something like a wonder bar.Is the aftermarket one any better or should i just stay with the stock one.All my shocks/struts are new and i have mostly all new energy suspension poly bushings.Im thinking of going with the sub frame connecters.What do yall think? SORRY ABOUT THE DOUBLE POST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Originally Posted by Shadygrady
ive heard Irocs come with something like a wonder bar.
JamesC
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From: So.Cal
Car: Nothing stock- I screw with everyth
Engine: Hook&Ladder #8
Transmission: Morris Code
Axle/Gears: AxleROse CD Collection & Scuba Gear
Originally Posted by Shadygrady
All my shocks/struts are new and i have mostly all new energy suspension poly bushings.
A good set of shocks alone would give you better performance quality than bolting on any other combination of goodies. If the shocks aren't good to start with, everything else is basically to put it bluntly a waste of time and money. You have to control the chassis movement.
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 350 bored .30 over
Axle/Gears: Posi 342
Wonder bar, I went with the one from Top-Down solutions. They have a diff. design that allows the wonderbar to bolt into the frame as well as the sway bar mounts.
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,895
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From: Pittsburgh PA
Car: 89 Iroc-z
Engine: 555 BBC Turbo
Transmission: TH400
Axle/Gears: MWC 9” 3.00
everyone says subframe connectors.. i think they are needed but i ran my car for 3 years now since i bought it without them and always wanted them but had to replace most of the other stuff first. i havent had any problems without them but i think they are next for me...
anyway, i would get a good set of springs and shocks and then a adj panhard bar IF those springs you buy are lowering springs. i would go lowering springs anyway like eibach prokit. they give good handling and ride and only lower a little bit. Panhard bar is necessary as your rear end will shift outward on the driver side as you lower the car
next would be lca's and the brackets to help align the geometry of the suspension. lowering springs throw off the geometry and you'll notice less traction without the relocation brackets. i know i did lose alot of traction with the Prokit so i bought the LCA's and brackets.
also, look into replacing any old worn out bushings. thats a must too.
factory IROC sway bars are pretty good. i havent done them yet. subframes will tighten the car up which will be very helpful. but overall, shocks and springs are the 2 best things you could do. they noticeably make the car handle better and ride nicer, as well as look nicer.
anyway, i would get a good set of springs and shocks and then a adj panhard bar IF those springs you buy are lowering springs. i would go lowering springs anyway like eibach prokit. they give good handling and ride and only lower a little bit. Panhard bar is necessary as your rear end will shift outward on the driver side as you lower the car
next would be lca's and the brackets to help align the geometry of the suspension. lowering springs throw off the geometry and you'll notice less traction without the relocation brackets. i know i did lose alot of traction with the Prokit so i bought the LCA's and brackets.
also, look into replacing any old worn out bushings. thats a must too.
factory IROC sway bars are pretty good. i havent done them yet. subframes will tighten the car up which will be very helpful. but overall, shocks and springs are the 2 best things you could do. they noticeably make the car handle better and ride nicer, as well as look nicer.
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Flowood,MS
Car: 87 IROC Z
Engine: 5.7 L98 TPI
Transmission: 700r4,2500 stall
Axle/Gears: G80,10 bolt 3.42's
Originally Posted by DRR
Being new and being good quality are two different things.
A good set of shocks alone would give you better performance quality than bolting on any other combination of goodies. If the shocks aren't good to start with, everything else is basically to put it bluntly a waste of time and money. You have to control the chassis movement.
A good set of shocks alone would give you better performance quality than bolting on any other combination of goodies. If the shocks aren't good to start with, everything else is basically to put it bluntly a waste of time and money. You have to control the chassis movement.
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From: Oaks,Pa
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: 350 HSR
Transmission: modified 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Just installed Bilstein shocks/struts for lowered cars all the way around.With the Redline Engineering LCA's & Adj panhard rod,Mac subframe connectors,Spohn relocation brackets and poly bushings & endlinks it's never handled like this in the 20 yrs I've owned it.Special thanks to Kat!
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