Is everyone elses roll bar look offset?
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From: Buford, GA
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 6.3L Megasquirted HSR
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 Posi 9 bolt
Is everyone elses roll bar look offset?
We finally got around to welding in the main hoop, rear strut bars and cross bar. I never really noticed until tonight that the rear subframe sits offset from the body, like its moved to the driverside about 6 inches or so. So for the passenger side strut bar it was no problem. but the driver side strut bar I had to come off the rear subframe at a very slight angle to mate it with the main hoop.
I also had to bang about a half-fist dent on the driver side above the gas tank for the strut bar to clear. Im using the CE 8pt kit, anyone else run into this? I was gonna use the door bars as the strut bars for more clearance, but from what I remember that wasnt gonna help me out much.
I also had to bang about a half-fist dent on the driver side above the gas tank for the strut bar to clear. Im using the CE 8pt kit, anyone else run into this? I was gonna use the door bars as the strut bars for more clearance, but from what I remember that wasnt gonna help me out much.
I like to tie in directly over the rear springs, and I have never encountered any problems in an 82-92 F-body when installing them (rear struts) in this fashion.
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iTrader: (9)
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From: Buford, GA
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 6.3L Megasquirted HSR
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 Posi 9 bolt
Ive seen a lot of people do that, but I went by the instructions that came with the kit and it said to weld it over the rear frame rails. I could see though having them over the springs helping out with hard launches, but I was more concerned with overall body flex. I honestly really didnt give it much thought about where to put em, Ill get some pics next time I go over to the guys shop.
yes, all of our rear subframes are "offset" in this fashion. Depending on placement of one side from the other you can end up with the bars running at the same(mirror) angle from each other. - My bars tie in at my spring pockets, should create more strenght in the suspension, plus the trunk shelf is where my top lays when it's down, so bars all the way to the back were not an option.
- I think ideally(hardtop or t-top) I would run the rear bars all the way to the back, then add an x-brace that went from the main hoop down to the spring area.
- I think ideally(hardtop or t-top) I would run the rear bars all the way to the back, then add an x-brace that went from the main hoop down to the spring area.
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 9,550
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
these cars arnt very symmetrical... almost everything from the floorpan to teh subframes to the engine offset, differ....
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Senior Member
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Buford, GA
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 6.3L Megasquirted HSR
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 Posi 9 bolt
thats good to hear, I still gotta fit the door bars but after that I might try and tie the bar into the spring pockets. I still got the 2 bars that are supposed to go to the trans tunnel, but I aint runnin a 4 link or anything so I dont see a point in running those to the trans tunnel (at least thats where the directions show theyre supposed to go)
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