Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

Help me before I buy a Mustange

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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 01:36 AM
  #1  
graebz28's Avatar
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From: Kansas City, MO
Car: 83 Z28
Engine: 406
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" with 4.10s
Help me before I buy a Mustange

I really just want my car to handle like it was new.

I'm runnning Jamex springs, J&M camber/caster plates, Koni reds in front and stock 4th gen shocks in the back. My panhard is from J&M, aluminum and spherical rods. A-Arm bushings are polygraphite. It also has rect spohn SFC. I used to have the spohn T/A, but did not like the rigitity that is added to the ride and the noise from the way the bushing mounts to the x-member. Same with the LCAs with spherical/poly bushings.

I have rented the Mustange GT-H and am driving a 6 cyl stang right now. The GT-H was really a great combination of comfort and control. It is basically a GT with 3.42s, cold air, a strut brace, 17's, exhaust and the same suspension that is on the GT-500(F40 option). Had it tearing up the Phoenix Freeways at over 150mph! Sure 140+ was shakey, but everything else was incredible.

By accident today, I ended up on the HWY 198 between the 5 and 101 in CA. If you ever are north of LA, this 50 mile downhill road was so worth going out of my way. Lots of cool turns. Anyway, I was in the 6 banger stang and it puts my car to shame. Its got decent stability, but more important to me at this age, comfort. I was really impressed with the 4.0 6 and the A-5. On both cars, the 1-2 shift puts the motor back at 3500 rpm to really get out of the hole fast.

Anyone else running a similar set-up that has switched to something else. I think removing the solid bearing camber plates would help alot. I though I would get more adjustability from them, but they do not go to much more away from the stock settings.

The car has some vib. issues. I know some are from the t56 and I am thinking that the motor mounts may be shot. The car baked in the AZ sun stagnate for several years. The paint is baked off the passanger side that was exposed to the sun the most. All the weatherstriping is cooked as well. I even suspect that the harmonic balancer may have dry rotted and slipt leading to some vibrations at 3000 rpm. Checked it even with the belt disconnected and the trans removed to rule out any belt driven accesory or trans noise.

Just need some ideas before I end up hitting the reset button and start over.

Also need to reconsider the gearing. The 2.68 1st gear of the M6 and the 3.42 are pretty doggy. Really thinking of going to a tremec or g-force, but that is a post I'll do later on the appropriate board.

Looking for suggestions for a better spring/strut/shock set-up. I recently moved to Kansas City and the roads are less favorable that AZ.
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 07:19 AM
  #2  
CrazyHawaiian's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Changing Tires
Car: too many ...
I would start by replacing the rear shocks with something better. Koni Red's are not the best out there but they are much much better than stock replacement. Get something of similar quality to match for the rear. Another thing you might want to consider is the swaybar setup. Not sure what kinda swaybars you got on there now but if the car has too much bodyroll you can help solve that by upgrading the swaybars. Maybe even a cheap upgrade (say Z28 swaybars) might make a difference depending on what you got. Final thing, you might wanna think about what kind of tire setup you're running compared to the new car, good tires makes a big difference. The other problems you're having seem like a gearing mismatch, would probably want to change the rearend gears instead of swapping out the tranny. BTW Jiu-Jitsu is awesome.
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 02:06 PM
  #3  
Shagwell's Avatar
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From: Southwest Florida
Car: projects.......
apples vs oranges? steak vs spam? A brand new mustang vs a clapped out 3rd gen? - you get my point.

Tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm, ball joints, control arm bushings(front too), shocks, springs, etc.......Of course that new car feels tighter and rides smoother. Thats because it's new.

As Crazy said, I'd start with the rear shocks, and check what sway bars you have. The rod-ended panhard also transfers a lot more vibration/noise than a poly ended. For smoothness, you're probably right, the factory type strut mounts could be better. With the proper components you can get that new car feel again.
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Old Nov 2, 2006 | 10:30 AM
  #4  
graebz28's Avatar
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From: Kansas City, MO
Car: 83 Z28
Engine: 406
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" with 4.10s
Thanks guys!

I just got back and had a nice ride home from the airport and again today. The cold weather is really making some extra hp. Anyway, things are not as bad as they seem.

I do have all new components as far as tie rods, centerlink, idler..... and the car is a WS6. I am planning on letting the car rest this winter and giving one last shot. I just have to take it off the streets for a while so I do not have to rush to get work done in a weekend.

I used to run some Herb Adams Adj shocks in the back, but the 4th gen stockers gave a better ride IMHO.

ANy suggestions for good dual purpose (street/mild road race) shocks?Anyone got anything to say about Edelbrocks?

Crazy-H, you training out there? Lot of great instructors out your way.
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Old Nov 2, 2006 | 05:43 PM
  #5  
Matthew91-Z28's Avatar
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,333
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From: Texas
Car: 1991 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 with Eaton posi
Man....i am feeling it too. I started out wanting to set this car up to handle like a ******. It does, but its way too hard for a daily driver. See my sig. I have done alot to take out the factory slack.

I know my front a-arm bushings arent shot but they need to be replaced with something better than 15 yr old rubber.

And I am willing to pull the eibach prokit springs and throw them over a clifff and never look back. They **** me off. Too much bolt-rattling, teeth-mashing, kidney-punching. It handles and feels great on a flat smooth road, but on your typical potholed and bumpy roads it is really irritating.

Its not the fault of the springs...they do a great job. But I am just tired of the way they feel

I think I am going with stocker IROC srpings and cutting them to get the same stance (I love the stance I have with the drop srpings).
----------
oops...forgot the sig

Last edited by Matthew91-Z28; Nov 2, 2006 at 05:43 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Nov 3, 2006 | 12:15 PM
  #6  
graebz28's Avatar
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From: Kansas City, MO
Car: 83 Z28
Engine: 406
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 9" with 4.10s
Matthew,

I hear ya bro. I started out the same way and went Poly everything and even some spherical ends rather than bushing. Even on the softest settings, Koni reds are pretty rough. New stock rubber a-arm bushing will make a big difference. I have poly-graphites which I have been happy with for 10 years. Delrin is another option, but I have not personally used them yet.

How do do like your torque arm? Did it help or hurt in your opinion? Proline's with a 2" drop spindle must be really rough and low to the ground. Do you have much suspension travel or scrape the ground much?

Nice Quote! But isn't it "And where you are ain't no good unless you can get away from it"

You understand.....Yeah! .................... Let's hit the f'n road!
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