I have an 89 firebird 350 formula with new shocks, struts, and a spohn subframe connector. My sfc are not welded completely down the body didnt want to take out the carpet. I want to use my car for weekend twisty road driving. Does any one have any ideas if I should first get my sfc welded all the way down the body of my car or get boxed or tubular lca from spohn. Remeber i want to improve my handling for twisty roads. I heard the boxed ones can bind is this true is boxed or tubular better for handling.
JamesC
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Get'em welded, then purchase the Spohn's tubular.
JamesC
JamesC
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Your call on the wonder bar. I'd say go for it, they're pretty cheap.
The aftermarket boxed and tubular are pretty much the same from a functional standpoint. Neither one will help much as far as twisty roads, both will tend to induce bind. Get some poly/rod end ones, and/or use oversized 3/4" rod ends with a delrin bushing over the bolt to help cushion it.
The aftermarket boxed and tubular are pretty much the same from a functional standpoint. Neither one will help much as far as twisty roads, both will tend to induce bind. Get some poly/rod end ones, and/or use oversized 3/4" rod ends with a delrin bushing over the bolt to help cushion it.
So what would be the best imporvements i could do for my car's handling at this point under 500 bucks.
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swaybars
Supreme Member
formula? Not sure, measure 'em and find out.
I'd replace every bushing under the car, with a poly urethane or poly graphite. $300 for the kit to do everything, roughly. Now that'd be a big difference
I'd replace every bushing under the car, with a poly urethane or poly graphite. $300 for the kit to do everything, roughly. Now that'd be a big difference
Quote:
anything broken/wornOriginally Posted by glennjamin48
So what would be the best imporvements i could do for my car's handling at this point under 500 bucks. then shocks.
then tires.
then bracing.
Supreme Member
no. Just take your caliper and reach under, it's not exactly hard to get to.
check ur rpo codes to see what suspension you have, then check this
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/faq-...ghlight=inside
i wouldnt do sway bars if your car has the big bars already, which it should. aftermarket stuff isnt any bigger
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/faq-...ghlight=inside
i wouldnt do sway bars if your car has the big bars already, which it should. aftermarket stuff isnt any bigger
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I would check the bars regardless, unless you are the original owner of the car. The 36/24 combo can be sold for a decent amount of money, and it's possible that an earlier owner sold them off (if the car came originally equipped with them in the first place).
If you want good LCAs that won't bind, go with Spohn or BMR tubulars with quality rod ends. If you have the money, buy 'em in cm instead of mild steel. Lighter car overall, and less unsprung weight, will translate to better handling.
- Justin
If you want good LCAs that won't bind, go with Spohn or BMR tubulars with quality rod ends. If you have the money, buy 'em in cm instead of mild steel. Lighter car overall, and less unsprung weight, will translate to better handling.
- Justin
that sounds really good ill change out the bushings first then will put in tubular lca
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yeah but keep in mind that rod ends are loud and wear out faster than any polyurethane bushing will. If you are using this as a street vehicle I'd say go for polyurethane ends. Since he has a formula 350 he may be good on sway bars, but I'm a camaro guy so I'm not sure. Since you have sfc, get them welded in first, second replace all of your crap rubber bushings for poly ones. I'm not sure about the real difference between the boxed and tubulars. I'm assuming that the boxed are better for straight line perfomance. Also are you keeping the car at the same height or are you lowering it also?
I am going to keep the car at stock height b/c I am already having problems with clearance




