Time to start gathering parts for my struts and springs. I have a few questions.

First of all, my strut mounts. Where is the best place to get strut mounts for a daily driver? I wont be autocrossing, if I can make this thing handle like it did when it was new I would be happy. I was looking at the Standard Mounts from Spohn. Are these stock replacement? Is this the lowest priced option?

Next are my springs. Every time I search, be it here or online performance shops I find SO MANY options for springs. All I want are stock replacement. I have RPO F41, so what springs are "stock replacement" and where should I get them?

Lastly are struts. I've been really looking at Koni Reds, but I'm afraid if I get these I will be paying for more than I need. I mainly want something that will LAST. Performance is second. I would like them to be at least a little bit better than what the car came with stock.

Also - Do I have the quick ratio steering box or not?

 

I doubt that your stock strut mounts are worn out. Make sure that they are before replacing. (Save the money if needed the Spoon units mentioned will be adequate)

The Koni Reds will last a long time and have a lifetimne warranty. You will be happy with them.

GET A good alignment with as much caster as possible, it will make the car feel better. You will be able to feel the front tires and what they are doing and the car will want to go strait all the time.

Changing the box may help, but if you want to keep the OEM feel then don't replace. Steering will be heavier. I recently bought a quick ratio box to replace the stock 89 RS unit. (cost and effort may not be the best use of your money)

Other will know more about the replacement springs.

I WOULD NOT RECOMEND the poly joints for control arms and suspension pick ups for a daily driver.

 

Well, I've long suspected that my strut mounts are bad. First of all, the car has over 170K on the clock, and second of all I have a knocking that comes from that corner of the car. If I jack it up and jerk the tire around, I can hear the knock coming from what sounds like the top of the strut. Finally, when I had my tires installed a month or so ago the shop (Wheel Works) said my strut mounts and struts had play and needed replacing. How can I test them?

 

I purchased my strut mounts from CarQuest, at, IIRC, $80 per, but that's been a couple years ago. The springs are another question. Search my name for info. The bottom line, as far as I can ascertain, is that no one really knows what's what when the quesion of OEM springs arises. Most members says Moog replacements, 5662 and 5665. Here's one of the links:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ring-rate.html

JamesC

 

I'm getting my Konis from Spohn, so I'm going to go ahead and get his IROC style Moog Spring set as well. I'm gonna wait on the strut mounts and likely get those from Napa closer to when I actually start the job. What else should I do while I have the front end torn up?

 

What do you mean by this???

 

I mean that I don't recommend them.

They Bind. The way that a bushing is suposed to work is that the bushing insert is trapped in the mount by the bolt and the bushing and arm moves around the insert. The bushing insert is not intended to rotate around the bolt. Bolts are used to fasten not designed support loads or locate pieces.

I don't see the insert rotating in the poly with ease. But, with 800 lbs on it and a 14 inch lever something will rotate.

I run DEL LUM bearing in the front a arms with grease fillings and heims on the trailing arms. The ride is rough and noisy with this set up, but you gain alot of road feel and there are less compliance issues. If I did not have these I would use the stock pieces.

The Poly may be ok for drag racing where the lateral loads are not significant and the goal is to reduce lost motion on launch. I do not drag race. I road race.

If they were good for a daily driver GM would have installed them. He said this is a daily driver.

If you do recommend them or have them, I am ok with that too.

 

While your tearing apart the front end, check your steering linkages and front swaybar bushings.

New rubber isolators for your front springs may also be needed. New rubber control bushing will be nice as well if you do not want the harshness of poly bushings.

 

While you have your front end apart you should replace the tie rods, ball joints, idler arm, a-arm bushings, center link, and sway bar bushings and end links if they are all original pieces that also have 170K on them. No use spending the money on struts and springs if all those other pieces are on there last leg.

 

Well...all those steering parts are a whole different story, not to mention a couple hundred more dollars. All sway bar endlinks and bushings are new. I was planning on doing the ball joints, but everything else is going to have to wait because I dont think my steering parts are that worn. I can jerk the tie rods pretty good and everything is real tight. I was thinking actually of doing motor mounts. Make sense?

I placed my order through Spohn. Two Koni Reds and the spring pack.

 

Polyurethane bushings are hard, and can cause suspension binding. Your best bet for a comfortable daily driver level suspension is "poly-graphite" bushing. It gives you the firmness of a urethane bushing but it is graphite impregnated so it doesn't bind our squeak....

 

Doesnt sqeak, will still bind.

 

Umm, ok. Don't run them then.....