Hotchis subframe connectors????
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Supreme Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,244
Likes: 1
From: Texas City, Texas Area
Car: 89 RS, 92 Z28
Engine: 305 TBI, 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 Both Cars
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi.. 4 wheel disc both cars
Hotchis subframe connectors????
Anyone using Hotchis subframe connectors on their third gen???? If so are you happy with them...I love the way they fit on the fourth gen cars...Do they fit that well on ours tho????? Any pics??? Am thinking of going with a set.....Thanks for some opinions on this, Tom
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 12,807
Likes: 108
From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 408 stroker sbc
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: Moser full floater m9, 3:70 trutrac
i saw a set installed on another 3rd gen when my car was in the body shop being painted, they looked kinda hokey to me... and if i remember right, they didnt fit well over the cat.
i personally like the alston type connectors, check topdownsoultions
i personally like the alston type connectors, check topdownsoultions
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 472
Likes: 15
From: Washington State
Car: '84 Berlinetta
Engine: ZZ4
Transmission: BTOD stage 3
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi disc
Ive got them on my car, they fit really well and were extremely easy to install, as I was putting in tubular control arms at the same time. The weld on ones went in without a hitch, and firmed up the frame something fierce. The look really nice, concealed if you had the body kit but exposed if you don't (like mine) and make it look like you have a nice black powder coated frame. They do not interfere with the exhaust at all- Im running Edelbrock TES headers, a 3" y pipe and 3" hooker cat back exhaust (no cat, just straight pipe). Another great thing about these is they bolt as well as weld to the rear control arm brackets, so you can bolt them down first (with the control arm removed) and weld the seam with ease. Hope this helps,
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,244
Likes: 1
From: Texas City, Texas Area
Car: 89 RS, 92 Z28
Engine: 305 TBI, 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 Both Cars
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi.. 4 wheel disc both cars
Ok so do they go over, or under the cat?????...The set i saw loked really nice...I wanted to bolt them on, while I was doing my rear end swap, then when I have the exhaust weilded in a couple of weeks, have them weilded at the same time......I know the fourth gen set looked tight as hell, they were way up there, so to speak.....Thanks, Tom
Supreme Member
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,780
Likes: 2
From: Fla
Car: 90 IROC
Engine: 406
Transmission: GMPP 93/4L60
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27
I have them on mine and im really happy with them. Once they were welded to the frame and pinch weld. The car is so tight now, handles like its on rails. And when i mash the gas the car doesnt feel like its going to twist in half. Of course, the other suspension parts have something to do with that as well.
The passenger side goes beside the cat. And butts up to the pinch weld all the way to the front frame near the lower control arm mounting point. If you have dual pipes like i do you may need to move them over some for clearance. Mine are dual 2.5 in pipes. If its a single cat you shouldnt have any problems.
I bolted mine in first then while the exhaust work was being done. I had them welded up. The rear of the frame connector just bolts to the rear control arms. After you do that just push them up to were they touch the front frames. There sloted in the back so you can slide them back and forth to get the best postion. Drill some holes in the front plates and bolt them up. The factory subframes have holes in them right around the area where the bolts go. So if you take your time you can get your fingers in there to put the nuts on.
The passenger side goes beside the cat. And butts up to the pinch weld all the way to the front frame near the lower control arm mounting point. If you have dual pipes like i do you may need to move them over some for clearance. Mine are dual 2.5 in pipes. If its a single cat you shouldnt have any problems.
I bolted mine in first then while the exhaust work was being done. I had them welded up. The rear of the frame connector just bolts to the rear control arms. After you do that just push them up to were they touch the front frames. There sloted in the back so you can slide them back and forth to get the best postion. Drill some holes in the front plates and bolt them up. The factory subframes have holes in them right around the area where the bolts go. So if you take your time you can get your fingers in there to put the nuts on.
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Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 502
Likes: 1
From: Leesville, LA
Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: Modified 350 TPI
Transmission: Modified 700 R4
Axle/Gears: Posi 3.42
I have them on my camaro as well. Have had them for about 2 years now. I agree with everything said about ease of use and performance. Really great product I think. You won't be disappointed if you purchase a set.
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 10,950
Likes: 26
From: Orange, SoCal
Car: 1990 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 355 TPI siamesed runners
Transmission: Tremec T56
Axle/Gears: 12-Bolt 3.73
Here are some pics of a set my dad installed on a customer's car 5 years ago.
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iTrader: (10)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,780
Likes: 2
From: Fla
Car: 90 IROC
Engine: 406
Transmission: GMPP 93/4L60
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27
Good pics...you can see the openings in the frame that i was talking about. To get to the bolts for the front if you need to bolt them in first.
Looking at the passenger side pics. reminds me i did have to hammer the corner there some to get clearance for the 2.5" pipes. They fit before but tucked up nice after.
Kevin i wish your dads shop was here in florida. Someone with his knowledge of thirdgens and tools (dynojet) would be cool to have around.
Looking at the passenger side pics. reminds me i did have to hammer the corner there some to get clearance for the 2.5" pipes. They fit before but tucked up nice after.
Kevin i wish your dads shop was here in florida. Someone with his knowledge of thirdgens and tools (dynojet) would be cool to have around.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,244
Likes: 1
From: Texas City, Texas Area
Car: 89 RS, 92 Z28
Engine: 305 TBI, 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 Both Cars
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi.. 4 wheel disc both cars
Well guys, I am sold, was gonna do the Alston, but I think I am ordering mine right now...They look tight as hell.....Can hardly wait..The subs, and my Energy Suspension kit, (Hyperflex kit with larger rear sway bar, and bushings) along with the gear, and the posi (With disc brakes) oughta really wake my little 89 up a bit....Got the whole Edlebrock TES setup too, so its gonna be a big difference I hope...3.23 gears in place of the 2.73's.New fast ratio steering box too.......Oh yeah....PAYBACK here it comes....Any pointers on any of these thing??? Any kinks you guys forsee???? Any suggestions at all would be most welcome...Thanks for the help making up my mind.Tom
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
Car: 1986 camaro z28
Engine: 350sbc
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: stock axle with 4.11's
do you guys suggest welding them all the way down the frame or is welding them at just the mounting points good enough for a street car...???
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,244
Likes: 1
From: Texas City, Texas Area
Car: 89 RS, 92 Z28
Engine: 305 TBI, 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 Both Cars
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi.. 4 wheel disc both cars
outlaw, good question.......Anyone???????????????????
Supreme Member
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,780
Likes: 2
From: Fla
Car: 90 IROC
Engine: 406
Transmission: GMPP 93/4L60
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27
Yeah i would weld them along the pinch weld, not just the ends. I think they tacked(about a 3" bead)mine in three places along the pinch weld.
I had the car up in the air before they were welded. And the frame would twist slightly enough, that i could see it pull away from the pinch weld area. so imo i think it helps stiffen the frame even more.
I had the car up in the air before they were welded. And the frame would twist slightly enough, that i could see it pull away from the pinch weld area. so imo i think it helps stiffen the frame even more.
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,951
Likes: 13
From: Ottawa, ONT
Car: 1987 Firebird
Engine: 355
Transmission: T56
I beleive the weld question was discussed before. The general concensus was, it has been done, but it cant be done with any SFC where-ever it meets the body, it has to be along the side of the car, and that requires fabrication. Welding along the floor pans would cause alot of stress on all metal components and eventually damage something.
I was sold on Alstons before, but Hotchkis look amazing, looks like a real frame, and the clearance is great. HOWEVER, if you are running cats, i would imagine alstons are better. I think Hotchkis would win for strength, but Alston, for compatibility and ease of installation with factory parts. But both look relative easy to setup, depending on what type of exhaust you are running. Thanks for the pix!
I was sold on Alstons before, but Hotchkis look amazing, looks like a real frame, and the clearance is great. HOWEVER, if you are running cats, i would imagine alstons are better. I think Hotchkis would win for strength, but Alston, for compatibility and ease of installation with factory parts. But both look relative easy to setup, depending on what type of exhaust you are running. Thanks for the pix!
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 10,950
Likes: 26
From: Orange, SoCal
Car: 1990 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 355 TPI siamesed runners
Transmission: Tremec T56
Axle/Gears: 12-Bolt 3.73
For reference, here are the Alston's on my car. They've been there since 1999.
Hello,
Here is another option on SFC's, unlike the Hotchkis set-up we attach to the front behind the wheel well as well as the actual frame in the center of the vehicle. You will also notice on the passenger side our SFC is designed to follow the contour of the floor rather then straight tubing hanging lower then needed. If anyone has any questions please and I am glad to help. These can also be picked up for $169.99 a set under the GP section
www.umiperformance.com/2400.aspx
Thank you!
Ryan
Here is another option on SFC's, unlike the Hotchkis set-up we attach to the front behind the wheel well as well as the actual frame in the center of the vehicle. You will also notice on the passenger side our SFC is designed to follow the contour of the floor rather then straight tubing hanging lower then needed. If anyone has any questions please and I am glad to help. These can also be picked up for $169.99 a set under the GP section

www.umiperformance.com/2400.aspx
Thank you!
Ryan
Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
Car: 1986 camaro z28
Engine: 350sbc
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: stock axle with 4.11's
heh well thats exactly what i went with the umi sfc's i like the design the best and they look strong and sturdy...thx for the info and the product
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,951
Likes: 13
From: Ottawa, ONT
Car: 1987 Firebird
Engine: 355
Transmission: T56
UMI, a couple of questions. I noticed that the actual subframe looks great and sturdy, but the welding points look like they are welded onto the bulk of the subframe. Have you run into any issues with those? As well, it is not clear how they attach to the rear of the vehicle, it looks like they bolt into the rear control arms. Will they work with the stock control arms? Otherwise, im very impressed with how big and tough they look, and how they work with stock exhaust!!!
We offer you (6) major welding points on the SFC's, (3) on each side. All the attachment points that require welding are nicely formed to prevent big gaps to fill. We have great luck with this.
On the rear they attach to the outside of the control arm mount sandwiching the mount, they do not effect the control and can be used with any control arms. They bolt there as well as weld. One of the nicest things about this is once you bolt them to the control arm mount all you have to do is swing the SFC up in place, this guarantee's you can not weld them in the wrong location.
Hope that helps!
Ryan
On the rear they attach to the outside of the control arm mount sandwiching the mount, they do not effect the control and can be used with any control arms. They bolt there as well as weld. One of the nicest things about this is once you bolt them to the control arm mount all you have to do is swing the SFC up in place, this guarantee's you can not weld them in the wrong location.
Hope that helps!
Ryan
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,244
Likes: 1
From: Texas City, Texas Area
Car: 89 RS, 92 Z28
Engine: 305 TBI, 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4 Both Cars
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi.. 4 wheel disc both cars
Kevin, thanks for the pics...Looks really tight.......UMI, I have already went with the Hotkis set.Got a good deal for a blemished set from the factory...(131 for a scratched set)..Your connectors look great tho, and if I had saw them first, I mighta went with them...I do want to say thank you to you, and thanks to all who have helped me on this...I like getting other peoples opinions, even if the topic has been beaten to death.....I will let everyone know how they went on, and what I think of them when they are done.....Tom
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