Big Suspension upgrade
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From: Southern Wisconsin
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 383 Stroker
Transmission: Probuilt 700 R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Big Suspension upgrade
I have basically a stock suspension setup. I have weld in SFC, Eibach shocks and springs. I was wondering what else should be done if I wanted to run in the 11's or maybe in the 10's
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From: MN
Car: 1982 Camaro
Engine: 555 BBC
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Re: Big Suspension upgrade
I was in the 11.2's with stock front and rear suspension. The only addition I had was lca's. Funny thing is after all the upgrades it didn't improve much at all.
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From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: Big Suspension upgrade
Maybe LCAs, PHB, LCA relocation brackets?
What springs do you have? I know some people run V6 rear springs.
What springs do you have? I know some people run V6 rear springs.
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From: Southern Wisconsin
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 383 Stroker
Transmission: Probuilt 700 R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Big Suspension upgrade
does it matter if the LCARB is a bolt on or weld in. I am thinking just like the SFC that the weld in's will be better
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From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: Big Suspension upgrade
Why what? If you mean the springs, they are a softer rate and allow more weight transfer to the rear.
Yes, it's generally agreed that weld-in's are better.
Yes, it's generally agreed that weld-in's are better.
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Re: Big Suspension upgrade
V6 FRONT springs, not rear. Why?They are alot longer and compress to ride height, then combined with a high bum and low rebound strut (a 90/10 drag strut) they will unload and lift he nose upon launch. The rears you want stiff, DO NOT GO V6 SPRINGS IN THE REAR.
This will get the nose weight up and overe the IC (instant center) and load the rear wheels like a teeter tooter.
This will get the nose weight up and overe the IC (instant center) and load the rear wheels like a teeter tooter.
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: Big Suspension upgrade
Must do it different that the guys over at LS1Tech then:
Not saying that's the only way to do it. But, it is a sticky, so I don't think it would be incorrect.
Originally Posted by jaberwaki on LS1tech.com, "So You Wanna Be Fast" Sticky
B. Suspension Parts
To keep your tires planted to the ground, you need to upgrade your suspension.
Shocks
Shocks control the up and down motion of both the front and back of your car. Ideally in a drag race, you want your front shocks to allow the front to rise very fast, but to come down slowly. Your rear should assist in transferring weight at first, and then push the rear end toward the ground as forward movement begins. You need adjustable shocks to do this. It would be better to have two-way adjustable shocks if you can.
Springs
Your front springs should be weight-specific. If your car is heavy, then you want a stronger front spring to assist in bringing the front of the car up. If your car is a tin can, then you can go lighter on the front springs. For a stock weight car, I would go with a 300lb front spring; for a really light car, 275lbs should be plenty. There is some debate over the rear springs. Many have gotten their best times on stock rear springs; others use what I use, V6 springs.
Lower Control Arms
LCAs are very important for several reasons. They control wheel hop -- the violent bouncing of your tires as they try to grab traction. And as weight transfers from the front to the back, the LCAs apply downward pressure to the axle housing, planting the tires and aiding in traction.
Torque Arm
The TQ arm does a few vital things for your whole setup. 1. It (along with the LCAs) is the pushing point for your rear end. 2. It acts as a ladder system to assist in weight transfer. 3. It can affect and change the pinion angle of the driveshaft as well. If you intend to race a lot, then you want a chassis-mount torque arm, not a tranny-mount torque arm.
Rear Sway Bar
As the power of your motor is translated through your drivetrain, it create a natural torque to one side; that is, the body tries to twist to one side. A drag solid-end-link rear sway bar, will combat this effect and assist you leaving the line straight and true.
Pan-Hard Bar
As power is sent violently to your rear, the rear end has a natural tendency to move side to side (known to some as the traction shimmy). Your pan-hard bar combats this. If you get an adjustable one, then you can also use it to center your rear end.
To keep your tires planted to the ground, you need to upgrade your suspension.
Shocks
Shocks control the up and down motion of both the front and back of your car. Ideally in a drag race, you want your front shocks to allow the front to rise very fast, but to come down slowly. Your rear should assist in transferring weight at first, and then push the rear end toward the ground as forward movement begins. You need adjustable shocks to do this. It would be better to have two-way adjustable shocks if you can.
Springs
Your front springs should be weight-specific. If your car is heavy, then you want a stronger front spring to assist in bringing the front of the car up. If your car is a tin can, then you can go lighter on the front springs. For a stock weight car, I would go with a 300lb front spring; for a really light car, 275lbs should be plenty. There is some debate over the rear springs. Many have gotten their best times on stock rear springs; others use what I use, V6 springs.
Lower Control Arms
LCAs are very important for several reasons. They control wheel hop -- the violent bouncing of your tires as they try to grab traction. And as weight transfers from the front to the back, the LCAs apply downward pressure to the axle housing, planting the tires and aiding in traction.
Torque Arm
The TQ arm does a few vital things for your whole setup. 1. It (along with the LCAs) is the pushing point for your rear end. 2. It acts as a ladder system to assist in weight transfer. 3. It can affect and change the pinion angle of the driveshaft as well. If you intend to race a lot, then you want a chassis-mount torque arm, not a tranny-mount torque arm.
Rear Sway Bar
As the power of your motor is translated through your drivetrain, it create a natural torque to one side; that is, the body tries to twist to one side. A drag solid-end-link rear sway bar, will combat this effect and assist you leaving the line straight and true.
Pan-Hard Bar
As power is sent violently to your rear, the rear end has a natural tendency to move side to side (known to some as the traction shimmy). Your pan-hard bar combats this. If you get an adjustable one, then you can also use it to center your rear end.
Not saying that's the only way to do it. But, it is a sticky, so I don't think it would be incorrect.
Re: Big Suspension upgrade
I have seen alot of stuff on this site the is a sticky and incorrect. That is a simple opinion guidline and does not list a specific combination with a specific tire size and quality, a specific shock, a specific spring riate combo, swaybar sizes, preload if any used, etc etc,.. yes you can take a few cars with mismatched stuff and get a combo with a softer rate to work better based on how everything eelse is. It takes a marraige and if the guy stuffed heavy swaybars on the car he wil get a better launch off of a softer spring. THe springs are the major tuner, and the bar a fine tuner/ not the other way around like he is most likely experiencing. Its not the ideal way to build a car from gound up, and as he grows in speed, the car will suffer his way with softer rear spring s combined with traction and HP.
Something as simple as adding urethane motormounts and endlinks will alter how the car twists and launches and a spring rate change to bandaid correct it can work, but again, its a bandaid fix. when done right, the spring rate , ride height, and articulation geomtry would have been set firt then the rest of the suspension taylored to it. Not in his case. he is not going anywhere better in the future on that setup.
I goata go, I am sure I will be banned again by the time I log on later.(hence the short term collect call name
)> The actuall comercial name was collect call from first name Bob, last name Wehadababyitzaboy.
I haver a good time trying to pick a screen name with a pun.
Something as simple as adding urethane motormounts and endlinks will alter how the car twists and launches and a spring rate change to bandaid correct it can work, but again, its a bandaid fix. when done right, the spring rate , ride height, and articulation geomtry would have been set firt then the rest of the suspension taylored to it. Not in his case. he is not going anywhere better in the future on that setup.
I goata go, I am sure I will be banned again by the time I log on later.(hence the short term collect call name
)> The actuall comercial name was collect call from first name Bob, last name Wehadababyitzaboy.I haver a good time trying to pick a screen name with a pun.
Last edited by BobItzaboy; Oct 23, 2007 at 04:18 PM.
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