BNBZ28

iTrader: (1)

since i have adjusted my pinion angle down i noticed that is harder to get my driveshaft in. took the car out to the track last night and it wheel hopped worse then ever. easing off the line i still muscled out an 11.48@124.8 and an 11.39@121 letting off because im running out of gear.anyway i think by looking at it i need adjustable lca's when you crank the pinion angle down the lcas stay put meaning that its trying to twist the panhard bar and closing in the gap between my yoke and driveshaft. if i had adjustables i could move them back and still drop my pinion angle. correct me if im wrong but also think about it before calling me a dumba$$. lol

Blue1989RS

I'm no expert but I'll give you my 2 cents.

The pinion angle should be pointed down'ish cause when you launch the axle and joints flex up. In the flexed position it should it should be at the same angle as the tranny to driveline angle. Thats all there is to it?

Wheel hop could be caused by improper LCA angle. Are they currently flat with the ground? If they are, you may want to try the next hole down.

Shagwell

? - Pinion angle is not causing bind, nor is it keeping your lca's from moving. I understand what you are saying, but unless you're trying to run totally ridiculous amounts of negative angle, the arc of movement is too minimal to overly compress the slip yoke. You also have to remeber that in turning the pinion down you lengthen its distance from the trans, thus offsetting its "forward" travel. - Jack it up and check. With the suspension loaded you should have approx 3/4" of yoke showing at the tail housing. If you want to get really technical, pull the springs and verify the distance as you cycle the suspension. I highly doubt any useable pinion angle is creating any sort of "bind" - this coming from a guy who ran -6. If it is, then you likey don't have the proper ds length even with the stock pinion setting.

Wheel hop is caused by the shocks/springs inability to control the suspension cycle through it's range of motion. Pinion angle, lca angle, torque arm length/mount point and bushing durometer all vary the requirements from the shocks and springs, but ultimately it is the shocks/springs that control suspension cycle, therefore allowing or negating hop. - Basically, your lca angle/pinion angle/etc may lessen or increase hop by changing the load/leverage on the shocks & springs, but changing them to decrease wheel hop is just band-aiding an improper shock/spring adjustment/selection.

All this means that your increased pinion angle causes the rear end to react faster/harder to the initial "shock" of launching and your springs/shocks are unable to control the tires' rebound. Since they can't control the rebounding action, they tires spin, the suspension drops back to its static height and the process starts over until you lift or until the vehicle speed is far enough beyond the engine's ability to "shock" the suspension, thus it doesn't cyle downward as far and the shocks/springs become adequate.

Bottom line; the proper pinion angle and control arm angle for your car will create the most possible traction, while the proper shocks/springs will control the suspensions cycle at those angles. - there's a reason racers run adjustable shocks.

Blue1989RS

What kind of 60' times are you running?

I don't think a twisted panhard bar will create hop, but it could be restricting suspension travel.

Shagwell, do you think that weak rear springs and a bound suspension could over-emphesize a small amount of wheel hop?

BNBZ28

iTrader: (1)

my 60fts last night were like 1.72-1.80 and it hopped so bad i couldnt read my tach. im running all stock suspension except for the jegster arm. the lca angle i think is a problem but i also think i need to have them a little longer. the driveshaft used to fit in easily but now that i have started to crank the angle down it is getting harder and harder to put in. im gonna get adjustable lcas with relo brackets and an adjustable panhard bar. the car never launchs like it did yesterday. it went either right or left every launch normally its straight. i can tell there is a bind back there because when i turn now it pops and clunks in the back.

Blue1989RS

If you've lowered it in the back like most people do without correcting anything, your LCA angle is off and your axle is being pushed to the driver side by the panhard. This pushing binds the LCA's if you have urethane.

If you get LCA relocator brackets you an put them in you will probably fix your problem. They are cheap and easy to install. Though nothing in the back should be clunking! I would do what Shagwell suggests. Lift your car and support the chassis. Then use a jack to lift and lower you axle and watch your suspension.

BNBZ28

iTrader: (1)

ive got a lift at my house i picked it up today didnt see anything out of the ordinary. im gonna get lca relos. i do have urethane bushings in the lca's i think im gonna get adjustable one and extend them some.i think thats part of my problem. the more i think about it the more i think the panhard bar is trying to twist when i adjust the angle. if im twisting the rear down and the panhard bar stays it has to be twisting. right? my car isnt lowered but in sure the springs are a little worn.

Blue1989RS

Hold on man. Since you have urethane bushings in your LCA's you probably are having a binding problem. If anything, get an adjustable panhard bar and LCA relocators. You don't need to get the adjustable LCA's. You won't see any gain by doing that.

Are your LCA's level with the ground or do they have to go up to meet the axle? Please see

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...arm-angle.html

BNBZ28

iTrader: (1)

they are almost straight across maybe slightly going up towards the rear. i no thats 99% of my problem. the car is biding more since i put in the bushings. i also have a spool in it which doesnt help. lol has anyone ever heard of these? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CAMAR...spagenameZWDVW
they are really cheap for dual adjustable.

MrBrooks

I called those guys about a set of those lca's. They do not recommend them for drag racing as they are aluminum. He says they are fine for street/auto-x but the load placed on them from drag racing is not what they were designed for. Especially if you're running them relocated downward at the axel.

Blue1989RS

Get an adjustable panhard bar with spherical ends first. There is absolutely no need for you to get adjustable LCA's.

BNBZ28

iTrader: (1)

should i get one rod end/poly? or rod end/rod end?

BNBZ28

iTrader: (1)

just put an angle finder on my lca's they are 5* up as in going from the car to the rearend. (AKA the wrong way). definatly need relo brackets.

Blue1989RS

You should get the dual spherical. Especially if you start to play with more adjustable parts.

5* isn't bad. Once you get the brackets on you are still limited in selection. As long as the LCA angle goes down to the axle you shouldn't have hop. Although the lower it goes the more you reinforce engine brake wheel hop (wheel hop when you do hard engine brakes). I have it bad in my autocross car. Since all you seem to do is 1/4 you should never have the problem.

Also watch your pinion angle to make sure you aren't making things worse. Driveline to axle input should be the same as the tranny tailshaft to axle angle. If those angles aren't the same you will get driveline vibrations/shutter. Thats pretty much the extent of the pinion angle.