Not sure where to start
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From: Tomball,TX
Car: 1989 TA
Engine: 305, 5.0
Transmission: T5
Not sure where to start
Not sure where to start on my suspension. I need new tire and springs and shocks. but what should i start with. i was gonna start with tires and wheels because i figured if i lower my car the ones i have on there will rub even more than now. but then i thought well what if i get new tires and wheels and theyre too big...then i'm really screwed....what should i start with?
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 430
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From: Huntsville Alabama
Car: 89 IROC convert.
Engine: tpi 305
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 10 bolt
Re: Not sure where to start
If your goal is improved handling, start with polyurethane bushings everywhere in the suspenson, along with new tie rod ends, balljoints pittman and idler arms. Get the front end aligned.
Then change springs and shocks
Then wheels and tires
Then, in any order, change or add the other stuff like subframe connectors, tubular LCAs, parnhard bar, LCA relocation brackets, sway bars, or torque arm. Well, actually sub connectors, and LCAs/brackets probably should come first.
Then change springs and shocks
Then wheels and tires
Then, in any order, change or add the other stuff like subframe connectors, tubular LCAs, parnhard bar, LCA relocation brackets, sway bars, or torque arm. Well, actually sub connectors, and LCAs/brackets probably should come first.
Re: Not sure where to start
Instead of going rubber or poly bushings on the front control arms, you have a third option. Global West DEL-A-LUM bushings. Personally I would avoid using poly bushing on the front contol arms. The downside to the DEL-A-LUM bushing are the price, they are about 3x the price of poly but are another option.
Here's the order I would do things:
1) SFC connectors These are stand alone parts (by stand alone I mean you won't have to remove and then reinstall later for future upgrades.) They will tie your chassis together for future upgrades and make a stiffer platform.
2) Rebuild the front steering system including ball joints. While you have the Control arms off to remove the ball joints have the bushing replaced with either rubber, poly or del-a-lum bushings. You could replace the springs now while you have the control arms apart or wait till you have more funds. Doing all of this at once will keep you from having to take things apart multiple times.
3) Brakes - You'll probably be driving the car harder after the upgrades, so you'll want these in top shape. Depending on your budget you might want to consider upgrading to one of the bigger brake packages such as LS1's or C4/C5's (Search the brake board for more information). If you plan on doing this, figure on upgrading your wheels and tires too, since most of those brakes won't find under 15" wheels.
4) Shocks/springs - The Springs/shocks this is where you'll feel a huge difference. If you are getting lowering spings you'll want to get an adjustable panhard bar (PHB) as well. This will allow you to recenter the rearend after lowering.
5) Wonderbar (Disregard if your car came with one) - This will tie the front frame rails together and keep the area by the steering box from cracking. With upgraded suspension you will more than likely be driving more "spirited" and extra reinforcement will help.
6) Wheels/tires - Wheels/tires are great for improving handling, but you won't feel as much of an increase in control (good tires really make for a better handling car, but the car really feels more stable with good shocks/springs and rebuilt steering).
7) Sway bars
8) LCAs, PHB, Tq Arm, LCARB - Lower Control Arm's, Panhard Bar (A must if the cars been lowered), Torque Arm, Lower Control Arm Relocation Bracket.
Here's the order I would do things:
1) SFC connectors These are stand alone parts (by stand alone I mean you won't have to remove and then reinstall later for future upgrades.) They will tie your chassis together for future upgrades and make a stiffer platform.
2) Rebuild the front steering system including ball joints. While you have the Control arms off to remove the ball joints have the bushing replaced with either rubber, poly or del-a-lum bushings. You could replace the springs now while you have the control arms apart or wait till you have more funds. Doing all of this at once will keep you from having to take things apart multiple times.
3) Brakes - You'll probably be driving the car harder after the upgrades, so you'll want these in top shape. Depending on your budget you might want to consider upgrading to one of the bigger brake packages such as LS1's or C4/C5's (Search the brake board for more information). If you plan on doing this, figure on upgrading your wheels and tires too, since most of those brakes won't find under 15" wheels.
4) Shocks/springs - The Springs/shocks this is where you'll feel a huge difference. If you are getting lowering spings you'll want to get an adjustable panhard bar (PHB) as well. This will allow you to recenter the rearend after lowering.
5) Wonderbar (Disregard if your car came with one) - This will tie the front frame rails together and keep the area by the steering box from cracking. With upgraded suspension you will more than likely be driving more "spirited" and extra reinforcement will help.
6) Wheels/tires - Wheels/tires are great for improving handling, but you won't feel as much of an increase in control (good tires really make for a better handling car, but the car really feels more stable with good shocks/springs and rebuilt steering).
7) Sway bars
8) LCAs, PHB, Tq Arm, LCARB - Lower Control Arm's, Panhard Bar (A must if the cars been lowered), Torque Arm, Lower Control Arm Relocation Bracket.
Last edited by Jason89RS; Jan 17, 2008 at 06:47 PM.
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From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: Not sure where to start
Seems like I did a write up on this...lol. Try This. Pretty much what Jason said.
Polyurathane is a buzz word on the internet and is a good thing to invest in, but it is not the best in every situation. It can be down-right bad on the rear LCAs.
The importance of the tires shouldn't be underestimated. Tires and shocks should receive the bulk of your budget. While you won't feel the difference as much in a set of tires (when compared to the shocks) just driving around, when you push the car hard or are forced to react quickly, they could save your butt. I know from personal experience going from a set of 245/50R16 BGF g-Force Sports to my winter 245/50R16 g009 Bridgestones. The car's rear broke loose when I had to react to a moron in my lane in a blind turn. Wouldn't have happened with the BFGs.
Just plan ahead and make sure you only do things once. For example, don't replace your stock sway bar bushings if you are thinking about replacing the sway bar in the near future.
Now, as for getting tires/wheels then lowering, that's fine. Decide what you want and get them. Just make sure that they are a common enough size, backspacing, etc to have been done enough to be proven. What size wheels are you looking into? 16x8s 17x9.5s something less common?
Polyurathane is a buzz word on the internet and is a good thing to invest in, but it is not the best in every situation. It can be down-right bad on the rear LCAs.
The importance of the tires shouldn't be underestimated. Tires and shocks should receive the bulk of your budget. While you won't feel the difference as much in a set of tires (when compared to the shocks) just driving around, when you push the car hard or are forced to react quickly, they could save your butt. I know from personal experience going from a set of 245/50R16 BGF g-Force Sports to my winter 245/50R16 g009 Bridgestones. The car's rear broke loose when I had to react to a moron in my lane in a blind turn. Wouldn't have happened with the BFGs.
Just plan ahead and make sure you only do things once. For example, don't replace your stock sway bar bushings if you are thinking about replacing the sway bar in the near future.
Now, as for getting tires/wheels then lowering, that's fine. Decide what you want and get them. Just make sure that they are a common enough size, backspacing, etc to have been done enough to be proven. What size wheels are you looking into? 16x8s 17x9.5s something less common?
Last edited by 91_5.7_TPI; Jan 17, 2008 at 06:29 PM.
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 429
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From: Mt.Holly, NC USA
Car: 1988 Camaro, 1986 S10, 2000 Harley
Engine: LS6
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.75 9" ford trac loc
Re: Not sure where to start
I just did a total front suspension rebuild. I used the Del-Alum bushings, and all Moog hard parts. I love them. I removed polygraphite, never did really like them, they started to squeeeeeek
over a period of time. Buy quality parts , you won't regret it. Dean
over a period of time. Buy quality parts , you won't regret it. Dean Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,820
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From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: Not sure where to start
I don't mind. It's nice to have someone to help me out when I reccomend what I do. Most of the time I sound like some crazy old timer.
Pages like this are why I did that write-up though...lol. I don't mind you 'poaching'.
Pages like this are why I did that write-up though...lol. I don't mind you 'poaching'.
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Thread Starter
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From: Tomball,TX
Car: 1989 TA
Engine: 305, 5.0
Transmission: T5
Re: Not sure where to start
[quote=Jason89RS;3604109]
Depending on your budget you might want to consider upgrading to one of the bigger brake packages such as LS1's or C4/C5's (Search the brake board for more information).
I looked on hawks to see how much c5 brakes would cost me and it said like 1500 dollars....not sure i want to spend that much though i'd like to have corvette brakes on my car. Is there any cheaper places i can get something like that? could i just go out and get corvette calipers and go get the right rotor for it? and also is this a good deal and will it work? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-02...2em118Q2el1247
Depending on your budget you might want to consider upgrading to one of the bigger brake packages such as LS1's or C4/C5's (Search the brake board for more information).
I looked on hawks to see how much c5 brakes would cost me and it said like 1500 dollars....not sure i want to spend that much though i'd like to have corvette brakes on my car. Is there any cheaper places i can get something like that? could i just go out and get corvette calipers and go get the right rotor for it? and also is this a good deal and will it work? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-02...2em118Q2el1247
Re: Not sure where to start
Not to be a jerk but like I said search the brake board and the FAQ board for more specific information, there are huge threads on these swaps. Here's one to get you started: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/faq-...s1-brakes.html
You could also PM Ed Miler (ebmiller), he's the brake guru on the brake board and puts many different full and partial packages together.
There's a lot more to it than that. Short answer no...you just can't bolt corvette calipers and rotors on. You'll need to do spindle modifications, a custom carrier bracket and more. Honestly it sounds like more work than it really is.
No that won't work it's made for 93-02 camaro's and personally I don't think it's a good deal.
You could also PM Ed Miler (ebmiller), he's the brake guru on the brake board and puts many different full and partial packages together.
could i just go out and get corvette calipers and go get the right rotor for it?
Also is this a good deal and will it work? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-02...2em118Q2el1247
Last edited by Jason89RS; Jan 19, 2008 at 04:02 PM.
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iTrader: (2)
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From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: Not sure where to start
From what I've seen, Ed Miller is a great option. Nicely priced, and very active in offering new braking options for us. When I get the money together, I plan to get a kit from him.
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,168
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From: Marietta, GA
Car: '91 Firebird Convertible
Engine: 305 TBI (LO3)
Transmission: 700r4, Vette Servo
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 Bolt, PBR disks
Re: Not sure where to start
Happy customer of Ed's here.
I'm about to throw on a 3.27 rear with PBR's on the back. I am very curious about how much better the braking will be with 4 wheel disks.
I'm about to throw on a 3.27 rear with PBR's on the back. I am very curious about how much better the braking will be with 4 wheel disks.
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iTrader: (2)
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,820
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From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: Not sure where to start
Get good brake pads for all 4 corners when you do the install. I think you'll be very very pleased. I have Hawks HPS pads on mine.
Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 430
Likes: 1
From: Huntsville Alabama
Car: 89 IROC convert.
Engine: tpi 305
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 10 bolt
Re: Not sure where to start
I recently did that swap from stock rear drums to a pbr/12" rotor set up. I used O'reillys pads, and ebay drilled/slotted rotors. I also put on an adjustable proportioning valve to help get the most out of the setup.
I saw a huge improvement. Better than I'd expected. I set my prop. valve in the middle just for starters, and never even touched it from there. I'll have to dial it in pretty soon, though, as I plan to start knocking down some cones with the other scca guys in March.
I should add that I can't say whether my stock drums were even working or not. I took them off without looking at their condition.
BTW I use tubular rear control armswith spherical poly bushings. I've never noticed any of the odd handling quirks associated with poly and would recommend them over rubber. Got them off ebay too.
I saw a huge improvement. Better than I'd expected. I set my prop. valve in the middle just for starters, and never even touched it from there. I'll have to dial it in pretty soon, though, as I plan to start knocking down some cones with the other scca guys in March.
I should add that I can't say whether my stock drums were even working or not. I took them off without looking at their condition.
BTW I use tubular rear control armswith spherical poly bushings. I've never noticed any of the odd handling quirks associated with poly and would recommend them over rubber. Got them off ebay too.
Last edited by redliterunner; Jan 30, 2008 at 09:17 PM.
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From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: Not sure where to start
You won't notice them unless you push the car hard. I showed several of my firends what I meant on a few occasions because they didn't believe me. I'd rather replace the stock bushing with new rubber than run poly in the LCAs.
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From: Tomball,TX
Car: 1989 TA
Engine: 305, 5.0
Transmission: T5
Re: Not sure where to start
Ok i'm getting ready to put springs and shocks on my car. i searched the forums and couldn't find anything on this. Is there anything else i will absolutely need to put lowering springs and shocks on my car? I'm asking this because I'm limited on money and really need to get new springs on my car because the stock springs are pretty much gone. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: Not sure where to start
It would probably be a good idea to get a spring compressor (internal type) to remove/install the fronts. A ball joint seperator tool will also come in handy. You can rent both these items at Advance or AutoZone and you get all the money back when your done. It's pretty straight foward, but a repair manual could come in handy. (I did mine without one, but I'd done the same job on an Acura Integra before and the Camaro is much easier.
Couple of possibly helpfull links:
1
2 (w/pics)
Just copy and paste those URLs into a browser. I checked a couple and they worked.
Couple of possibly helpfull links:
1
2 (w/pics)
Just copy and paste those URLs into a browser. I checked a couple and they worked.
Last edited by 91_5.7_TPI; Oct 29, 2008 at 02:12 PM.
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From: Tomball,TX
Car: 1989 TA
Engine: 305, 5.0
Transmission: T5
Re: Not sure where to start
Should i get bushings or anything else to install with the lowering springs and shocks? Do i need a panhard bar to align the car when i put the springs on?
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From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: Not sure where to start
You don't need an adjustable PHB, but it's a good idea.
Since you're in there, it would be a good idea to get new ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings and end links, etc. I'd say the front springs isolators will need replacing, but I haven't been able to find any near me. You'll probably be able to re-use them.
When installing your springs, make sure you put the 'flat' end on top, in the k-memeber, and the end that pigtails in the groove for the pigtail in the control arm.
Since you're in there, it would be a good idea to get new ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings and end links, etc. I'd say the front springs isolators will need replacing, but I haven't been able to find any near me. You'll probably be able to re-use them.
When installing your springs, make sure you put the 'flat' end on top, in the k-memeber, and the end that pigtails in the groove for the pigtail in the control arm.
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 136
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From: Tomball,TX
Car: 1989 TA
Engine: 305, 5.0
Transmission: T5
Re: Not sure where to start
You don't need an adjustable PHB, but it's a good idea.
Since you're in there, it would be a good idea to get new ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings and end links, etc. I'd say the front springs isolators will need replacing, but I haven't been able to find any near me. You'll probably be able to re-use them.
When installing your springs, make sure you put the 'flat' end on top, in the k-memeber, and the end that pigtails in the groove for the pigtail in the control arm.
Since you're in there, it would be a good idea to get new ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings and end links, etc. I'd say the front springs isolators will need replacing, but I haven't been able to find any near me. You'll probably be able to re-use them.
When installing your springs, make sure you put the 'flat' end on top, in the k-memeber, and the end that pigtails in the groove for the pigtail in the control arm.
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From: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 with Edelbrock ProFlow EFI
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt 3.73 Eaton posi
Re: Not sure where to start
So yeah, they are out there...
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iTrader: (2)
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,820
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From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: Not sure where to start
I might try that. But I kinda like the stance of the ProKit without the isolators lol.
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92camaroJoe
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Aug 13, 2015 06:07 AM





, but I think my order of upgrades is a little different. We are basically on the same page though. 
