Cracked Torque Arm
Cracked Torque Arm
Well I found out Saturday when I put my Torque Arm bushing in that the Torque Arm is cracked. It is just a hairline crack by the axle.
I really don't want to leave or try to fix (weld) this.
I am just curious to know if I should get a factory style or an aftermarket.
89 RS, 305, 5 Speed, 3.08 G80.
Still factory. I did buy this to drag race. However I have every intention of changing both front and rear subframes. (eventually)
So another question. Would I be better off for 2/3 years mininmum with a stock, then upgrading after the (frame) swap.
This build is going to be really slow. All in time, goal is in the 9's.
I really don't want to leave or try to fix (weld) this.
I am just curious to know if I should get a factory style or an aftermarket.
89 RS, 305, 5 Speed, 3.08 G80.
Still factory. I did buy this to drag race. However I have every intention of changing both front and rear subframes. (eventually)
So another question. Would I be better off for 2/3 years mininmum with a stock, then upgrading after the (frame) swap.
This build is going to be really slow. All in time, goal is in the 9's.
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 12,804
Likes: 103
From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 408 stroker sbc
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: Moser full floater m9, 3:70 trutrac
Re: Cracked Torque Arm
there really are no subframes. Are you planning to backhalf the car?
A good tunnel mounted torque arm will run you about 400 bux, a stock style one up to around 250. Used ones usually sell pretty quick, so if you buy one, and try to sell it in the future you should not have any problems. the stock style suspension can take the car into the 9's, its been done
A good tunnel mounted torque arm will run you about 400 bux, a stock style one up to around 250. Used ones usually sell pretty quick, so if you buy one, and try to sell it in the future you should not have any problems. the stock style suspension can take the car into the 9's, its been done
Re: Cracked Torque Arm
I'm sorry but I still don't know all the terminology yet. What do you mean by backhalf the car?
I will probably go with a stock style then. I don't see my car hitting 9's for a few years.
It would be sooner but, I am saving up for a house/property, I am happy having something to run down the track, even if it isn't the fastest.
I will probably go with a stock style then. I don't see my car hitting 9's for a few years.
It would be sooner but, I am saving up for a house/property, I am happy having something to run down the track, even if it isn't the fastest.
Re: Cracked Torque Arm
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
I figured I would look for one.
I think this is the one I am going to get, does anyone have any bad experiences with this one.
I figured I would look for one.
I think this is the one I am going to get, does anyone have any bad experiences with this one.
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 12,804
Likes: 103
From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 408 stroker sbc
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: Moser full floater m9, 3:70 trutrac
Re: Cracked Torque Arm
check out spohn performance and UMI, they make all the suspension parts and goodies, much better stuff that that edelbrock shazz.
You were talking about sub frames, and replacing they front and rear. there are no "subframes" on these cars. there is a "k-member" which is under the engine, attached to the chassis of both sides and the rear is all just part of the car. To change the rears "subframe" setup would be back halfing the car, pretty much cutting the complete rear floor pan and "frame" out and making a new tube chassis from the rear seats back.
search the fabrication and suspension forums, there is a ton of different threads on this type of mod, and mods to the stock style setups
You were talking about sub frames, and replacing they front and rear. there are no "subframes" on these cars. there is a "k-member" which is under the engine, attached to the chassis of both sides and the rear is all just part of the car. To change the rears "subframe" setup would be back halfing the car, pretty much cutting the complete rear floor pan and "frame" out and making a new tube chassis from the rear seats back.
search the fabrication and suspension forums, there is a ton of different threads on this type of mod, and mods to the stock style setups
Re: Cracked Torque Arm
I just call them subframes. Can't you buy the rear too.
I know you can the front.
I also know the "sub frame" is also a name for the addition to connect the front and back "frame"
I know you can the front.
I also know the "sub frame" is also a name for the addition to connect the front and back "frame"
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 12,804
Likes: 103
From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 408 stroker sbc
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: Moser full floater m9, 3:70 trutrac
Re: Cracked Torque Arm
Trending Topics
Re: Cracked Torque Arm
what 86TA is trying to say is that these cars do not have removable subframes. There's nothing to be bought or changed. If you want to change them, you're talking about building/having built a custom full frame. - However, you can change the rear links and the front k-member(engine crossmember/front control arm mounting point)
There are plenty of guys running radials in the factory suspension classes running well into the 7's on the factory lay-out suspension, no tubs/etc.
For chassis components, look into BMR, Spohn, and UMI. Instead of spending the money twice, you should look at divorce mounted tq arms - one that has a crossmember mount, not one that ties back onto the trans. Make sure you get an adjustable unit. - If 9's is all you're looking for, the jegs adjustable would be fine and low $. It, some decent control arms(lakewood are good for cheap, but not the "traction action" junk, just the replacement arms), control arm relocation brackets, and a general refurbish(springs/shocks, bushings) would totally cover you into the 9's and beyond.
Make sure you get some good weld-in subframe connectors from one of the affore mentioned companies. Do that before you put any power to it.
There are plenty of guys running radials in the factory suspension classes running well into the 7's on the factory lay-out suspension, no tubs/etc.
For chassis components, look into BMR, Spohn, and UMI. Instead of spending the money twice, you should look at divorce mounted tq arms - one that has a crossmember mount, not one that ties back onto the trans. Make sure you get an adjustable unit. - If 9's is all you're looking for, the jegs adjustable would be fine and low $. It, some decent control arms(lakewood are good for cheap, but not the "traction action" junk, just the replacement arms), control arm relocation brackets, and a general refurbish(springs/shocks, bushings) would totally cover you into the 9's and beyond.
Make sure you get some good weld-in subframe connectors from one of the affore mentioned companies. Do that before you put any power to it.
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