Hi I'm new to the site and have some questions. I just purchased a 1990 RS Camaro with a V6. I plan on making it into a full blown racecar with minimal street use. Some things Ive run into is a torque arm. I'm gonna be running a 475 cid BBC With a Glide behind it. I've also just ordered a new Moser fabed 9'' rearend for the car with 4.88 gears. my question is will the jegster torque arm work with my setup? any other suggestions? I don't want to run the one from moser due to the price($1915.00) any help would be great.

 

i would look into the torque arms built by spohn as another option, i dont think a jegster will be the best choice.
http://www.spohn.net/?action=product&pid=1133

 

another interesting piece are the 2 BMR choices for torque arms. FWIW, I'll be putting up an unused BMR torque arm mount "brace" for sale soon. This is a brace that welds in between your SFC's and your new torque arm connects to.

 

Thanks for the info on the spohn site. I actually bought the torque arm they offer for a PG after I talked to them bout my combination. My other question is in reguard to Lakewood traction/lift bars from Jegs. Are these worth it or should I just go with aftermarket LCA like hotchkis or chassis engineering? Any suggestions would be great. thanks.

 

just forget the lakewood bars, they suck!!
Spohn/UMI/BMR also sell all the suspension components, and control arm relocation brackets which wont hurt to have either

 

Thats good to know cause the guy at Lakewood told me today that "If I had them installed professionally and had them welded on at the were they bolt to the houing I could eliminate the torque arm completely. I thought that was a little strange.

 

I MAY SOUND LIKE A JERK BUT ARENT V6 CAMAROS PRETTY MUCH A WASTE? IVE ALWAYS OWNED V8 ENGINES SO MAYBE THATS WHY IM THROOWING THAT COMMENT OUT THERE?

 

Your not sounding like a jerk but read a little more next time. The car was a V6 and now is completely gutted awaiting its big block transplant along with a powerglide and a moser 9''. Plus the price was unbeatable. FREE.99.

 

Is the Moser 9" you ordered the third gen direct bolt in version? If not then you won't be able to attach any torque arm to it.

When I installed a 9" into my car, I eliminated the torque arm with ladder bars. Last winter I back halved the car and installed a 4-link.

Lakewood Traction Action bars for third gens = junk. If your suspension will be using a torque arm, buy one from Spohn.

 

this question is for Stephen87IROC.

How difficult was it to install the ladderbars system in the car and what tire size were you running with that setup. I'm tryin to stay with a 10.5W tire. Also if I run the spohn torque arm what L.C.A. would you recommend and what panhard rod would be best.

 

yea, you might want to read that first post over again

and i see you own an 85 v6 car....

 

With some inner fender modifications (use the search feature as many TGO members have also done it), I was able to squeeze a 29.5 x 10.5 MT ET Drag under the fenders. 10.5W is even wider and may cause more interference issues.

Ladder bars were not that hard to install but will need some fabrication to install them in a third gen. The floor is very low in a third gen or the diff sits high in the body depending how you look at it. For a typical 30-33" long ladder bar, the front mount is inside the car. I fabricated box sections in the floor for the ladder bars to pass through. With ladder bars, you eliminate the torque arm and LCA, but you still need the panhard bar or a diagonal link to center the diff. I wouldn't recommend ladder bars for street use. They bind too much on the street since they're designed for straight line performance only.

All your torque arm suspension parts can be purchased from Spohn. Torque arm, LCA and panhard bar. There's no reason to mix and match manufacturers since they're all roughly the same product. Spohn is a TGO supporter and many TGO users buy and support his products. For a race only suspension, buy all adjustable parts and the LCA and panhard bar should have rod ends instead of rubber/poly bushings.

There are still pictures on my web site showing the ladder bars and floor sections. I probably ran the ladder bars for about 5 years before finally going to a 4-link. When I back halved the car, I was considering staying with ladder bars but decided to use a 4-link instead.

 

I wanted to thank everyone for their input on my questions. Special thanks to Stephen87IROC. After seeing the pics on your web page I called moser back and changed my rearend selection to acomidate my new Competition Engineering Ladder Bar Kit which included everything from the ladderbars, brackets,bolts, and crossmember for just under $500.00. The other part that help was all the donar parts coming from a buddy including Dbl. Adjustable coilovers for the rear, disc brake setup from Areospace and Weld Prostars 2.0 wheels(15x3.5 and 15x10) with Hoosier Quicktime pros 11.5x29x15 on the rears. That was a big help for mockup and a relief for me cause all its costing me is one Saturday Afternoon of somehelp with some dock lighting. Once again thanks to you all.