I know, should have done more homework. But, bought the box sight-unseen based on being called a "quick ratio box". Upon arrival, I put it on the bench and turned the input shaft lock-to-lock and counted the turns - 3 and a half. Repeated it many times, always 3 and a half.

Went over to the car I was going to put it in (Berlinetta #2), turned it lock-to-lock, roughly 2 and a half turns.

Okay, searched TGO, found the identifiers, went back out and looked at my boxes:

The "quick ratio box" on the bench, 26000525 stamped near the 4-bolt cover, with a big "Z" cast into the housing just below the stamping.

'82 Berlinetta box, 7826692.

I haven't disconnected the pitman arm yet to see if the lock-to-lock changes on the box in the car, but from what I read in the search results, it shouldn't change that much.

Feedback would be appreciated.

 

I hope this info helps some.

 

I had seen the table in my search, but didn't know where to look for the code, so that does help - some.

The loose gear is so corroded I can't see an ink stamp on that cover. The one in the car has a "W" and what looks like a small backwards "c", could be part of an "S" or "P". Since "WP" is an '82 Berlinetta code, that's probably what it is. Probably what both my Camaros have, actually. I assume the "variable ratio" starts at 15 and goes to 13.1 with more travel.

I guess I don't understand how a quick ratio box would have more turns lock-to-lock than a variable. Or, is this "Z" thing a red herring? The table doesn't show the relationship between the codes and stamped numbers (or, perhaps the message is, there isn't any relationship between them).

I probably got taken. Wouldn't be the first time.

 

Can't help you with the decoding but I know from the RPO code that my car's power box was a quick ratio. It also had a Z in the casting.

From the above list, mine should have been an XH box

With that above information, I should go see if I can find some XH and WS boxes for resale.

 

Different steering boxes with the same ratio can have different turns lock to lock on the bench depending on which internal stops they have. 12.7 is the actual ratio of the gears inside the box but the internal stops will be different for a G body/S10-more travel, and an F body with 15" wheels-less travel, and an F body with 16" wheels-least travel. There are a couple of different bypass springs used in them also-a MonteSS box is not as high effort as an IROC box. Those steering boxes were used on Grand Cherokees also and had even more travel than the G body boxes. There are thicker/thinner end caps used to determine the travel.

On the box in the pic the code is stamped on the end plug-on my car the stamp is on the cover by the adjuster.

 

Welcome to my world, kid. Here's what you need:

http://www.rmsautoparts.com/proddeta...rod=36-0516561

JamesC

 

well you people got me going today . i have an 89rs daily driver , bought an 83 z28 for parts . the z is just a roller , no eng. . ckd. steering box #s , no letters on end cap just #s 7800715 . the case #s 7826692 . any idea what it is ??? i may sell it to a local member , but i would like to know what it is . any idea ???? thanks . ( yes i did a search )

 

The "Z" thing doesnt mean squat about the steering ratio inside the box.

 

Every listing I've seen that claimed quick ratio included the "Z" part.

 

This from RBob. "The Z is meaningless. It is only an ID for the raw casting. Anything can be on the inside. Those castings were used on everything from the highly desired HX box to Gran-Ma's Buick."

JamesC

 

That's because every quick ratio steering box uses the same cast!!!

 

I have the WS6 package with about 2.5 tunrs lock-to-lock.

Does this mean I should look for a berlinetta box?? Because I love the quick ratio steering, but I cant stand the effort required to turn the wheel.

If anyone has driven a first-gen oldsmobile Aurora with the caddilac motor, that is what I want my car do steer like. I know its a FWD car, and brobably has a caddy steering box too, but I just loved the feel of driving that car. It handled decent for a big car, had gobs of power, and rode like a dream. Plus, the steering alone was what took me.

 

Here's a link to a pretty comprehensive list of steering box info-I knew I had it saved somewhere-

http://www.chevelles.com/techref/shea_3.html

Looks like you pretty much have to know for sure what the box came off of since the code stamps are usually gone.

 

If low effort is your goal, then that's what you want.

Of all the listings I've seen (may not be all that comprehensive), the code has never been mentioned. The stamping and "Z" have mentioned, and sometimes what it came off of. Most of the time they just list what it will fit.

Buyer beware looks to be the operative phrase.

 

Subscribing. i am switching to PS and need to learn more. Ebay is full of stuff I don't trust.

Even on these boards people usually don't know what they are selling.

I don't need the best anything. i just want a normal good old Steering box. Ugh... This should be easier.

Anyone know what to look up if I am trying to get a nice remaned box from NAPA?

 

My experience with reman boxes has been ALL BAD. I went thru three boxes from NAPA. First one locked up after a week, second turned out to be a 4 turn box and the third had a huge amount of play in it. In another 'deal' ('nother story really) I wound up with another reman box (source unknown) and put it on my trans am. It was 'OK' but didn't match the feel of the original (which I had pulled off to replace leaking seals).

In my limited experience I've always come out better picking up a used box from the JY (cost around $50 here) and putting a seal kit in them. I've done three that way (for my cars and another) and each has had better feel and less play than any of the remans I've used.

Right now I've got a reman box sitting on my workbench I'll sell you, good price. Worked 'OK' but what a difference after I swapped the old one back into the TA with fresh seals and proper adjustment.
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If you EVER swap steering boxes or pumps PLEASE be sure to install a filter in the system. You can pick up a little filter that fits in the return line from AZ for like $3. Would have saved me several hours work a while back when I had an o-ring get sucked thru and booger up a box.