front suspension package?
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From: near chicago illinois
Car: have a 92 camaro rs...in pieces
Engine: none now...probably 383 stroker
Transmission: none yet
Axle/Gears: none
front suspension package?
i was wondering if anyone knows where i could get a complete system like this one... http://www.rpmoutlet.com/03cnltf.htm for my 92 camaro? thanks in advance.
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Minnesota
Car: 84 camaro, 88 trans am, 98 camaro
Engine: Modded , stock, LSX modded
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4, t-56
Axle/Gears: 327, 308, 373
Re: front suspension package?
look at some of the sponsors on this site...
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From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: front suspension package?
What are you wanting to do with the car? There are a couple of sponsors that sale items like that. Spohn does.
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: near chicago illinois
Car: have a 92 camaro rs...in pieces
Engine: none now...probably 383 stroker
Transmission: none yet
Axle/Gears: none
Re: front suspension package?
What are you wanting to do with the car? There are a couple of sponsors that sale items like that. Spohn does.
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From: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 with Edelbrock ProFlow EFI
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt 3.73 Eaton posi
Re: front suspension package?
What will you be using the car for? autocross, drag racing, daily driver, road race, a combo of all them...?
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 475
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From: near chicago illinois
Car: have a 92 camaro rs...in pieces
Engine: none now...probably 383 stroker
Transmission: none yet
Axle/Gears: none
Re: front suspension package?
What will you be using the car for? autocross, drag racing, daily driver, road race, a combo of all them...?
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From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: front suspension package?
Well, for what you've described, a complete kit like that would be overkill if you ask me. You really only get into that much stuff if you plan to seriously road race or drag race the car.
I'd reccomend just going over the car and replacing the stuff in the car that's worn out. Such as bushings, tie rod ends, all those little things that need attention. Buy some good shocks (I prefer KONIs, but I'm a cornering nut), replace the springs with stock replacement pieces from Moog if you want to stay at stock height or some lowering springs if you want to lower it. I'm not too familiar with a shock that would be good for some DD use and drag racing as well. I know KONIs makes shocks specifically for drag racing, but I've not heard good things about drag shocks/springs and driving on the street.
But, if you want to spend that much money on the car, I'll be happy to show you how...lol
I'd reccomend just going over the car and replacing the stuff in the car that's worn out. Such as bushings, tie rod ends, all those little things that need attention. Buy some good shocks (I prefer KONIs, but I'm a cornering nut), replace the springs with stock replacement pieces from Moog if you want to stay at stock height or some lowering springs if you want to lower it. I'm not too familiar with a shock that would be good for some DD use and drag racing as well. I know KONIs makes shocks specifically for drag racing, but I've not heard good things about drag shocks/springs and driving on the street.
But, if you want to spend that much money on the car, I'll be happy to show you how...lol
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From: Port Orchard,WA
Car: 89 Camaro RS
Engine: 355 SD TPI
Transmission: WCT5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 Posi
Re: front suspension package?
just kit a bushing kit and replace worn out things, ive been working at it and you wouldnt believe the kind of bump up it give you by just doing new struts/shocks, strut mounts and a poly bushing kit from energy suspension, id look at all your old parts and make sure they function properly, my ball joints were shot and we just replaced them today while doing the bushing kit and its definitely a few steps up from where i was a couple weeks ago
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From: near chicago illinois
Car: have a 92 camaro rs...in pieces
Engine: none now...probably 383 stroker
Transmission: none yet
Axle/Gears: none
Re: front suspension package?
But, if you want to spend that much money on the car, I'll be happy to show you how...lol
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From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: front suspension package?
Well, if you want to go that route, I'd say first off to get a 9 inch rear or a 12 bolt. They are stronger than the 9 bolt and offer better brake selection.
For the suspension parts, I'm going to reccomend either Spohn or UMI. I have several Spohn pieces on my car. Are you wanting to replace the whole suspension with aftermarket parts?
For the suspension parts, I'm going to reccomend either Spohn or UMI. I have several Spohn pieces on my car. Are you wanting to replace the whole suspension with aftermarket parts?
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iTrader: (2)
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,820
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From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: front suspension package?
Spohn offers a coil over kit like the one you showed. But, I've heard it limits the size of the front tires you can run. Also, the front of the car isn't really designed to handle the weight of the car there. I've seen several people running them, so it must work. The price of their complete kit (including K-member) is ~ $1300 + struts. They also have a rear coilover kit, but I think I would stick with the stock layout there. I don't know how many shock options you would have with it. I would really reccomend a few other parts for chassis stiffness. The SFC (subframe connectors) are a must. UMI also offers a nice set, and if I had it to do again, I think I'd go with their's because of the square tube design. Also, a wonder bar is a good idea for stiffening the front of the car. I'd also reccomend a 3-point STB (strut tower bar) from Edlebrock. I plan to get one for my car as soon as I can get in the money.
Now, for the suspension. I'll let you read this write up to so you can get more specific questions about that:
Now, for the suspension. I'll let you read this write up to so you can get more specific questions about that:
Originally Posted by 91_5.7_TPI
Section 1: Lowering a F-Body The Right Way
If you are wanting to lower you car, there are several things you have to take into consideration.
The first thing that needs to be done (especially on the older cars) is to check the bushings for wear and tear and replace as needed. This includes inner and outer tie rod ends, ball joints, sway bar bushings, control arm bushings, etc. This isn't an absolute necessity, but starting to modify a car with worn components.... This is especially true if you are going to build the car to turn (as in Section 2).
When selecting bushings, sticking polyurathane everywhere isn't really the best choice. While polyurathane is great in sway bars, it looses it's shine in places like the LCAs. (See FootNote 1) Rod ends work well in the LCAs, but to some they are too harsh. I have a set of LCAs built from parts ordered from the circle track suppliers. Heavy duty rubber bushing on the body and a rod end on the axle. A-arms don't see the same twisting forces that the LCAs undergo, so polyurathane is pretty good here. but the best option (or so I've been told) are the Del-A-Lums offered by Global West. Polyurathane also works in the pan hard bar. I prefer a combo ended set up for the PHB, as well. I use NAPA parts for the steering linkage bushings (tie rods, ball joints, etc). Moog also makes quality replacement parts. A word of caution, polyurathane anywhere will squeak more than rubber, but it's not really enough to be a bother as long as your in the car.
When replacing springs, GET SHOCKS WITH YOUR SPRINGS. If you lower a car, it does more than just make it look cool. Lowering springs normally not only lower the car (causing the shocks to set at a place they are not designed to do) but are have a higher spring rate (stiffer). Both of these related occurances cause stock or replacment shocks (Auto Zone, Advance, NAPA, etc) to wear out much faster. This isn't only bad for handling, it's literally dangerous after prolonged periods; it causes the vehicle to be harder to control at speed and can increase braking distance. Shocks to consider are KONIs, Re-valved Bilsteins; these are somewhat common and more expensive names. But, if you don't want to spend that kinda money (keep the stock springs), there are other brands that will work.
In addition, when you lower a car, it affects your suspension geometry. The basic fix is LCA (lower control arm) relocation brackets. They will allow you set the angle of the LCAs back to stock after lowering. An adjustable PHB (panhard bar) is a good idea, because lowering a car without one will cause the rear alxe to set off center. It's not very noticable nor neccesary, but it is a good idea.
Section 2: Making an F-Body Handle....Better
For those of you looking to do more than just get rid of wheel gap (though, nothing wrong with that)
Best first mods (after replacing worn out bushings, etc):
1. Tires: Good ones = MONEY I've heard good things about GoodYear Eagle F1 GS-D3s, Falken RT-615 and Kumho MXs (although, MXs aren't a very good wet traction option). My advice is to get onto frrax.com or other auto-x/road race enthusiast site and do some reading. Purchase the best tire you can afford with the characteristics you want. Listen to people with experience, not what your friend (unless they really do know their stuff) tells you or what the tires salesman says.
2. Shocks: (again, money) KONIs or if you don't have the money (or want to spend it) revalved Bilsteins (to match your spring of choice). I've heard that the high end Tokicos are a decent as are the high end KYBs. But, in my opinion are budget shocks. I've read that neither has dampening qualities to handle more than spirited back roading. Also, they won't live as long as the Revavles or the KONIs unless you are using factory or factory replacement springs.
3. Springs: Lower isn't better unless you have the spring rates to back it up (why 3rdGen SportLines aren't that good). While it's true that a lower center of gravity helps your car's handling, setting low to the ground on soft springs is a bad thing. It can let you hit the bump stops (which have a much higher 'spring rate' than the springs) and this can cause snap over/under steer. The combination of the right spring rate and ride height coupled with the correct shocks makes the biggest difference in a car (other than tires).
4. Sway Bars: With sway bars, the biggest you can get isn't necessarily the best; finding a balanced set of bars is very important (for example, my rear bar is too big and causes the car to over-steer instead of under-steer, especially under throttle). But, you'll also need to take into consideration how the spring rates as well as the valving of your shocks interact with your sway bars. For example - a large rear bar may work well with the factory springs, but when you install stiffer springs you notice the car behaving differently and wanting to oversteer. This can be fixed either by softening the settings on your shocks (if adjustable) or moving to a smaller rear bar. Similar rules apply to the front.
An agressive street allignment (usually overlooked) is in there somewhere...not sure where to list it, but it is VERY important. I had my car alligned more aggressively than stock and imediatly noticed a difference in the feeling/stability of the corning of the car. I can link a listing of what is reccomended if you are interested.
Some people won't agree with that listing/order, but it's what the auto crossers and road course racers recommend when your first getting into it. All the other stuff (LCAs, PHB, relocation brackets, SFCs, etc) helps of course, but you will see the most bang for the buck with that list... just expect to lot of bucks haha. You will also need to consider stiffening the frame, especially if the car is a 3rd gen. SFCs are a good option, but don't offer the complete rigidity of a 6 or 8 point cage. However, the drawbacks to a cage are obvious.
Section 3:$$What You Can Expect to Spend$$
To give you an estimate, I have the following in my suspension:
KONIs around............................................ ... $750
Pro-Kit: .................................................. .....$245
Camber/caster plates .....................................$149
Wonder bar .................................................. $70
LCAs around .................................................$200
PHB.............................................................$160
rear sway bar ...............................................$160
front sway bar I used
from my parts car...........................................$150
brake pads were about ...................................$110-120
(Not really a part of the suspension, but if you are going to be going faster, you need to be able to stop faster and the Zone won't cut it)
SFCs + installation .........................................$340
Total ~ $2200
FootNotes
1. In the LCAs, the polyurathane can create bind in hard cornering. This bind is caused by the LCAs not being able to work as they are designed to. As the rear suspension is designed, the rear of the car moves over the rear axle (imagine the axle as fixed and the body as mobile). When the car enters the turn, the body tries to move to the outside of the turn due to momentum, while the axle tries to remain in place (you hope). Now, if taken from a helicopter view, this motion must have some affects on the suspension linkages. The most appearent is in the LCAs. As the body moves over the axle, the LCAs are put into stress. The factory bushings allowed for this by flexxing and allowing the energy of the movement to absorbed and dissapated easily. Polyurathane is stiffer than the rubber, and doesn't allow this disapation so nicely. They can cause the bind I mentioned and snap back into their original postion. I've had this happen to me on several occasions, and it's interesting to say the least.
If you are wanting to lower you car, there are several things you have to take into consideration.
The first thing that needs to be done (especially on the older cars) is to check the bushings for wear and tear and replace as needed. This includes inner and outer tie rod ends, ball joints, sway bar bushings, control arm bushings, etc. This isn't an absolute necessity, but starting to modify a car with worn components.... This is especially true if you are going to build the car to turn (as in Section 2).
When selecting bushings, sticking polyurathane everywhere isn't really the best choice. While polyurathane is great in sway bars, it looses it's shine in places like the LCAs. (See FootNote 1) Rod ends work well in the LCAs, but to some they are too harsh. I have a set of LCAs built from parts ordered from the circle track suppliers. Heavy duty rubber bushing on the body and a rod end on the axle. A-arms don't see the same twisting forces that the LCAs undergo, so polyurathane is pretty good here. but the best option (or so I've been told) are the Del-A-Lums offered by Global West. Polyurathane also works in the pan hard bar. I prefer a combo ended set up for the PHB, as well. I use NAPA parts for the steering linkage bushings (tie rods, ball joints, etc). Moog also makes quality replacement parts. A word of caution, polyurathane anywhere will squeak more than rubber, but it's not really enough to be a bother as long as your in the car.
When replacing springs, GET SHOCKS WITH YOUR SPRINGS. If you lower a car, it does more than just make it look cool. Lowering springs normally not only lower the car (causing the shocks to set at a place they are not designed to do) but are have a higher spring rate (stiffer). Both of these related occurances cause stock or replacment shocks (Auto Zone, Advance, NAPA, etc) to wear out much faster. This isn't only bad for handling, it's literally dangerous after prolonged periods; it causes the vehicle to be harder to control at speed and can increase braking distance. Shocks to consider are KONIs, Re-valved Bilsteins; these are somewhat common and more expensive names. But, if you don't want to spend that kinda money (keep the stock springs), there are other brands that will work.
In addition, when you lower a car, it affects your suspension geometry. The basic fix is LCA (lower control arm) relocation brackets. They will allow you set the angle of the LCAs back to stock after lowering. An adjustable PHB (panhard bar) is a good idea, because lowering a car without one will cause the rear alxe to set off center. It's not very noticable nor neccesary, but it is a good idea.
Section 2: Making an F-Body Handle....Better
For those of you looking to do more than just get rid of wheel gap (though, nothing wrong with that)
Best first mods (after replacing worn out bushings, etc):
1. Tires: Good ones = MONEY I've heard good things about GoodYear Eagle F1 GS-D3s, Falken RT-615 and Kumho MXs (although, MXs aren't a very good wet traction option). My advice is to get onto frrax.com or other auto-x/road race enthusiast site and do some reading. Purchase the best tire you can afford with the characteristics you want. Listen to people with experience, not what your friend (unless they really do know their stuff) tells you or what the tires salesman says.
2. Shocks: (again, money) KONIs or if you don't have the money (or want to spend it) revalved Bilsteins (to match your spring of choice). I've heard that the high end Tokicos are a decent as are the high end KYBs. But, in my opinion are budget shocks. I've read that neither has dampening qualities to handle more than spirited back roading. Also, they won't live as long as the Revavles or the KONIs unless you are using factory or factory replacement springs.
3. Springs: Lower isn't better unless you have the spring rates to back it up (why 3rdGen SportLines aren't that good). While it's true that a lower center of gravity helps your car's handling, setting low to the ground on soft springs is a bad thing. It can let you hit the bump stops (which have a much higher 'spring rate' than the springs) and this can cause snap over/under steer. The combination of the right spring rate and ride height coupled with the correct shocks makes the biggest difference in a car (other than tires).
4. Sway Bars: With sway bars, the biggest you can get isn't necessarily the best; finding a balanced set of bars is very important (for example, my rear bar is too big and causes the car to over-steer instead of under-steer, especially under throttle). But, you'll also need to take into consideration how the spring rates as well as the valving of your shocks interact with your sway bars. For example - a large rear bar may work well with the factory springs, but when you install stiffer springs you notice the car behaving differently and wanting to oversteer. This can be fixed either by softening the settings on your shocks (if adjustable) or moving to a smaller rear bar. Similar rules apply to the front.
An agressive street allignment (usually overlooked) is in there somewhere...not sure where to list it, but it is VERY important. I had my car alligned more aggressively than stock and imediatly noticed a difference in the feeling/stability of the corning of the car. I can link a listing of what is reccomended if you are interested.
Some people won't agree with that listing/order, but it's what the auto crossers and road course racers recommend when your first getting into it. All the other stuff (LCAs, PHB, relocation brackets, SFCs, etc) helps of course, but you will see the most bang for the buck with that list... just expect to lot of bucks haha. You will also need to consider stiffening the frame, especially if the car is a 3rd gen. SFCs are a good option, but don't offer the complete rigidity of a 6 or 8 point cage. However, the drawbacks to a cage are obvious.
Section 3:$$What You Can Expect to Spend$$
To give you an estimate, I have the following in my suspension:
KONIs around............................................ ... $750
Pro-Kit: .................................................. .....$245
Camber/caster plates .....................................$149
Wonder bar .................................................. $70
LCAs around .................................................$200
PHB.............................................................$160
rear sway bar ...............................................$160
front sway bar I used
from my parts car...........................................$150
brake pads were about ...................................$110-120
(Not really a part of the suspension, but if you are going to be going faster, you need to be able to stop faster and the Zone won't cut it)
SFCs + installation .........................................$340
Total ~ $2200
FootNotes
1. In the LCAs, the polyurathane can create bind in hard cornering. This bind is caused by the LCAs not being able to work as they are designed to. As the rear suspension is designed, the rear of the car moves over the rear axle (imagine the axle as fixed and the body as mobile). When the car enters the turn, the body tries to move to the outside of the turn due to momentum, while the axle tries to remain in place (you hope). Now, if taken from a helicopter view, this motion must have some affects on the suspension linkages. The most appearent is in the LCAs. As the body moves over the axle, the LCAs are put into stress. The factory bushings allowed for this by flexxing and allowing the energy of the movement to absorbed and dissapated easily. Polyurathane is stiffer than the rubber, and doesn't allow this disapation so nicely. They can cause the bind I mentioned and snap back into their original postion. I've had this happen to me on several occasions, and it's interesting to say the least.
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,525
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From: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 with Edelbrock ProFlow EFI
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt 3.73 Eaton posi
Re: front suspension package?
I never thought you would go as far as quoting your entire thread...
To the OP, trust what 91_5.7_TPI has to say. A year ago, I too knew very little about working on cars, but thanks to 91_5.7_TPI, and countless others (just can't remember their exact user names at the moment) I now know a TON. I have set up my suspension similar to how 91_5.7_TPI has and it is working great.
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iTrader: (2)
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,820
Likes: 5
From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: front suspension package?
Well, that one is a more updated version of the original post I made here. It's from Z28.com. I wish I could edit my original with that one. It's a little more complete.
Thanks for the kind words. Just remember... the more you learn, the more you have to learn. It's like blowing up a ballon. The air inside is what you know, and the surface area of the ballon is what you don't. The bigger the ballon gets, the more you have to learn.
BTW, you guys can call me Aaron.
Thanks for the kind words. Just remember... the more you learn, the more you have to learn. It's like blowing up a ballon. The air inside is what you know, and the surface area of the ballon is what you don't. The bigger the ballon gets, the more you have to learn.
BTW, you guys can call me Aaron.
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Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: near chicago illinois
Car: have a 92 camaro rs...in pieces
Engine: none now...probably 383 stroker
Transmission: none yet
Axle/Gears: none
Re: front suspension package?
Hey Aaron...i dont know if this thread is the right place to ask this...but ill ask anyways...how knowledgeable are you with rear ends? oh and i meant 9" not 9-bolt..my bad.. like i said before i have little knowledge so if you know your stuff and you could answer these questions for me..that would be awsome... as far as the 9" rear from spohn... http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...-Complete.html if you were to go down the list of options..what would you pick...and why? hope you can help...thanks for the info so far..i have more questions to come...but ill start with this one...even though it is off topic....but i got lots of suspension questions as well.
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,820
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From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: front suspension package?
Rear ends... I like the ones on women....
Haha. It should technically go in the drivetrain fourm, but I'll answer it here since you've already started this thread. I admit my knowledge isn't complete on the subject, but I'll help where I can.
Well, it depends on how much power you are planning to make with the engine. That will determine the number of splines you'll need I don't know alot about what power level requires how many spindles, but the design of the 9" is alot better than the stock 10 bolt. The stock also has either 26 or 28 spline axles. Also, if you are going to drive the car on the street alot, I'd reccomend not getting a spool. They are primarily for drag racing and if I recall correctly, they always rotate the wheels at the same speed. That's not something you want for turning corners.
The axle options are drilled or non-drilled. The drilled ones have the center of the axle drilled out. It makes them lighter.
At least I think this is what that means, but I'm not completely sure.
I don't know much about the flange options, so I won't tell you anything that might be wrong.
I would get the aluminum case if it were me. It's lighter and reducing unsprung weight is very important in most applications.
The gear ratio depends on the power band of the engine, what transmission you use, and your intended use. For instance, if you build an engine with a power range from ~1500-6000 and ran a six speed transmission, and planned a combination of street driving and drag racing, I'd probably use the 3.89 or 4.11.
The wheel studs are what the wheel's lug nuts are attached to. The longer ones will be required for certain wheel/brake combinations.
The drain/fill bunges are installed before they send you the rear end. The fill bunge will be on the top of the differential casing and will allow you easily put in differential fluid. The drain will be on the bottom and allow you to easily drain old fluid.
The sway bar installation kit will be what you'll need to install a rear sway bar. I don't think the stock pieces will mate to the aftermarket rear, so I'd probably buy a set from them. You'll most likely want a rear bar.
If you are using a stock or stock replacement driveshaft, you'll need the conversion U-joint.
If I were ordering, I would order with the lower control relocation brackets installed. It's a good idea to have the adjustability if you lower the car for both better handling and improved launch traction.
The finish is your option, but powdercoating will look alot better than the bare finish and lasts a good while.
Haha. It should technically go in the drivetrain fourm, but I'll answer it here since you've already started this thread. I admit my knowledge isn't complete on the subject, but I'll help where I can.
Well, it depends on how much power you are planning to make with the engine. That will determine the number of splines you'll need I don't know alot about what power level requires how many spindles, but the design of the 9" is alot better than the stock 10 bolt. The stock also has either 26 or 28 spline axles. Also, if you are going to drive the car on the street alot, I'd reccomend not getting a spool. They are primarily for drag racing and if I recall correctly, they always rotate the wheels at the same speed. That's not something you want for turning corners.
The axle options are drilled or non-drilled. The drilled ones have the center of the axle drilled out. It makes them lighter.
At least I think this is what that means, but I'm not completely sure.
I don't know much about the flange options, so I won't tell you anything that might be wrong.
I would get the aluminum case if it were me. It's lighter and reducing unsprung weight is very important in most applications.
The gear ratio depends on the power band of the engine, what transmission you use, and your intended use. For instance, if you build an engine with a power range from ~1500-6000 and ran a six speed transmission, and planned a combination of street driving and drag racing, I'd probably use the 3.89 or 4.11.
The wheel studs are what the wheel's lug nuts are attached to. The longer ones will be required for certain wheel/brake combinations.
The drain/fill bunges are installed before they send you the rear end. The fill bunge will be on the top of the differential casing and will allow you easily put in differential fluid. The drain will be on the bottom and allow you to easily drain old fluid.
The sway bar installation kit will be what you'll need to install a rear sway bar. I don't think the stock pieces will mate to the aftermarket rear, so I'd probably buy a set from them. You'll most likely want a rear bar.
If you are using a stock or stock replacement driveshaft, you'll need the conversion U-joint.
If I were ordering, I would order with the lower control relocation brackets installed. It's a good idea to have the adjustability if you lower the car for both better handling and improved launch traction.
The finish is your option, but powdercoating will look alot better than the bare finish and lasts a good while.
Last edited by 91_5.7_TPI; Nov 13, 2008 at 09:03 PM.
Thread Starter
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iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 475
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From: near chicago illinois
Car: have a 92 camaro rs...in pieces
Engine: none now...probably 383 stroker
Transmission: none yet
Axle/Gears: none
Re: front suspension package?
yeah..i already posted a question about it but under suspension/chassis instead of trans/drivetrain...wasnt payin attention...they answered a couple of questions...but someone was more interested in giving me crap cause i labeled the post... rear end on a budget..and they said $3000 is not considered a budget...and i later asked the same question i asked you about what options to go with and why..but no one was kind enough to answer the question. so ill have to look somewhere else to get my answer. i dont like when someone answers a question by just saying...get this or this..without explaining the reasoning behind it... i dont just wanna buy something and just put it together and say.. im done.. id like to find someone that can tell me stuff like.... you need to do this because.... or this wont work because... someone was kind enough to spend some time explaining how building the engine works... and now i know what kind of machine work i need to get done..and what parts to order because they gave me the info that i needed to understand how it works (mostly crunching numbers to calculate compression and what size parts i need...etc). like i said i have lots of questions...i just need to pick out a few to post...ill post back soon..thanks for all the info so far...
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From: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 with Edelbrock ProFlow EFI
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt 3.73 Eaton posi
Re: front suspension package?
Thanks for the kind words. Just remember... the more you learn, the more you have to learn. It's like blowing up a ballon. The air inside is what you know, and the surface area of the ballon is what you don't. The bigger the ballon gets, the more you have to learn.
BTW, you guys can call me Aaron.
BTW, you guys can call me Aaron.
I remember reading your name somewhere but I couldn't remember what it was. Now I know for future reference.
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From: near chicago illinois
Car: have a 92 camaro rs...in pieces
Engine: none now...probably 383 stroker
Transmission: none yet
Axle/Gears: none
Re: front suspension package?
hey 91_5.7_tpi..what do you mean by this but more specifically the statement about the front of the car not designed to handle the weight?
Spohn offers a coil over kit like the one you showed. But, I've heard it limits the size of the front tires you can run. Also, the front of the car isn't really designed to handle the weight of the car there
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Europe->Poland->Warsaw
Car: 1988 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 305 LT1 intake&heads
Transmission: TH700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 10bolt GM
Re: front suspension package?
true, best way (for me) it to take k-mamber and a-arms (spohn or other) + caster camber plates lik J&M + weight jacks (Ground Control or others) and good struts, with this combination You get full adjustment on suspension and clerance for front wheels
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From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: front suspension package?
I'm wanting to get weight jacks and a tubular front end at some point to go with the mods I already have to the car. But, I want to get the LS1/T56 in ASAP. It's almost $1000 for the tubular front end, so that would set my plans back aloooot. lol
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From: near chicago illinois
Car: have a 92 camaro rs...in pieces
Engine: none now...probably 383 stroker
Transmission: none yet
Axle/Gears: none
Re: front suspension package?
91_5.7_tpi.. a few things i wanna say/ask.... you say it limits the tire size than can be used...you mean it being a problem with the stock/standard tire size that are on there now...or just if i wanted to use a bigger tire? if you are referring to bigger tires...are the ones i have now gonna be a problem and im going to need to get ones that are bigger? do i even need bigger ones? also if the strut towers aren't designed to handle the weight should i not consider even getting the coil over kit and just go with the stock cross member? or do you know of some kind of similar setup that would be the best option to go with? sorry if some of my questions seem basic or dumb but i really dont know and i wanna learn... someone not to long ago tore me a new a-hole..so to speak...cause they didnt believe some of the questions i asked(as far as them being basic) or the fact that when i said newbie...i really meant newbie. thanks for the help so far.
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From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: front suspension package?
From what I've heard, the stock wheels/tires will work, but if you go to a larger wheel (such as a 17x9 to run 275/40R17s) they won't clear. I could be wrong, but I have heard about wheel clearance issues. I would reccomend getting larger wheels if you are trying to make the car into a turning machine, but for what you say you want the car for, I don't think you'd really need a larger set of wheels.
The towers aren't designed to bear the weight, but there are several people who run the conversion without problems. And I don't think Spohn would keep saling something that could be that potentially dangerous. It does save a good deal of weight from the front end and I've heard it improves the ride quality. But, when you are spending that kind of money, people sometimes apply what they want to have happened to the results. Personally, I don't see myself doing it because I don't really have that kind of money to spend on something that is already on the car and wouldn't get me serious improvements. Compared to the set-up I have now, I don't see that it would. But, in your case (starting from scratch) I might do it. It's ultimatly up to you and what you want to spend. You might want to do a search for others who have done it and see what they though. Nothing's better than first hand experience.
The towers aren't designed to bear the weight, but there are several people who run the conversion without problems. And I don't think Spohn would keep saling something that could be that potentially dangerous. It does save a good deal of weight from the front end and I've heard it improves the ride quality. But, when you are spending that kind of money, people sometimes apply what they want to have happened to the results. Personally, I don't see myself doing it because I don't really have that kind of money to spend on something that is already on the car and wouldn't get me serious improvements. Compared to the set-up I have now, I don't see that it would. But, in your case (starting from scratch) I might do it. It's ultimatly up to you and what you want to spend. You might want to do a search for others who have done it and see what they though. Nothing's better than first hand experience.
Thread Starter
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From: near chicago illinois
Car: have a 92 camaro rs...in pieces
Engine: none now...probably 383 stroker
Transmission: none yet
Axle/Gears: none
Re: front suspension package?
yeah i hear ya...id like to save some money myself....i guess i might just stick with the stock cross member... it looks like crap though... you wouldn't by any chance know or can direct me in the right direction as far as lets say me wanting to clean up and sand the cross member and paint it...you think i should do something like that or maybe find a place that could do something like powdercoating...id like it to look like new... do you think i should just keep the cross member and work around that? i guess this build has my mind all over the place..this being my first and not knowing enough info about what im doing...i guess im looking for the perfect finished car but nothings ever perfect...everything doesnt have to be new..but i want it to look that way....so ill probably be asking a lot of questions...i hope you'll stick around and not get discouraged and help me out...your help is very much appreciated.
Last edited by weaz4200; Nov 22, 2008 at 10:51 PM. Reason: forgot to add one thing
Supreme Member
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From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: front suspension package?
I would probably find someone to powdercoat it. Or, with the right hardeners and things in paint (not rattlecan) you can put on a finish that will last. I think I'm going to have mine painted when I swap in the LS1, but I know a guy that did the underside of his drag car a long time ago and it still looks good. He's also the guy that's going to help me modify it if I go that route. Another option is a aftermarket k-member and stock front set-up.
Thread Starter
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From: near chicago illinois
Car: have a 92 camaro rs...in pieces
Engine: none now...probably 383 stroker
Transmission: none yet
Axle/Gears: none
Re: front suspension package?
I know a guy that did the underside of his drag car a long time ago and it still looks good
Another option is a aftermarket k-member and stock front set-up.
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 3,002
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From: Wittman,Az
Car: 86 IROC-Z, '71 RS
Engine: 305 TPI/ 350
Transmission: 700R4/TH350
Re: front suspension package?
91_5.7_TPI; I had to notch my K-member quite a bit to get the oil pan to fit with my ls1. If I had it to do again, I would probably get the spohn piece.
I agree completely about the coilover kit though. I would get the kit that includes the spring mounts for use of a stock-type spring.
I agree completely about the coilover kit though. I would get the kit that includes the spring mounts for use of a stock-type spring.
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From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: front suspension package?
Yep, that's the way I was talking about. Stock set-up with the aftermarket parts. I'll see what he did when I do mine, but that'll be a while from now. I may ask him what he used if I see him and remember to ask before then for you though.
I've seen people who have and who haven't had to clearance for the oil pan and those who have. My luck, I'll have to... lol. I'll probably see how much I'll have to do with the stock piece before I buy one though. I have a spare one from a Firebird I'm going to use, so it won't be costing me anything other than some time.
I've seen people who have and who haven't had to clearance for the oil pan and those who have. My luck, I'll have to... lol. I'll probably see how much I'll have to do with the stock piece before I buy one though. I have a spare one from a Firebird I'm going to use, so it won't be costing me anything other than some time.
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From: near chicago illinois
Car: have a 92 camaro rs...in pieces
Engine: none now...probably 383 stroker
Transmission: none yet
Axle/Gears: none
Re: front suspension package?
I'll see what he did when I do mine, but that'll be a while from now. I may ask him what he used if I see him and remember to ask before then for you though.
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From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: front suspension package?
Well, if you're starting from scratch, you'll need to go over this page. It's gonna be a pretty penny to get everything lol
Thread Starter
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From: near chicago illinois
Car: have a 92 camaro rs...in pieces
Engine: none now...probably 383 stroker
Transmission: none yet
Axle/Gears: none
Re: front suspension package?
It's gonna be a pretty penny to get everything lol
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 599
Likes: 1
From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1992 z28
Engine: 383 LT1 in the works
Transmission: T-56 in the works
Axle/Gears: 3.73 in the works
Re: front suspension package?
I am doing the same on my 1992z... COMPLETE suspension/drivetrain upgrade - nothing stock to remain, for the most part
. I am going with the front and rear coil over kits from SPOHN as well along with other UMI and Spohn parts. I plan to start a new thread on the entire build when I get everything in and started (hopefully in January). Pics of all parts will come when my Spohn order comes in
As this is expensive best way to get parts is to buy from the classifieds or when Spohn is having a sale. Everything I have purchased has been 10-15% off and also save even more buy buying new parts from board members that are not using the stuff and getting rid of it.
. I am going with the front and rear coil over kits from SPOHN as well along with other UMI and Spohn parts. I plan to start a new thread on the entire build when I get everything in and started (hopefully in January). Pics of all parts will come when my Spohn order comes in As this is expensive best way to get parts is to buy from the classifieds or when Spohn is having a sale. Everything I have purchased has been 10-15% off and also save even more buy buying new parts from board members that are not using the stuff and getting rid of it.
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From: near chicago illinois
Car: have a 92 camaro rs...in pieces
Engine: none now...probably 383 stroker
Transmission: none yet
Axle/Gears: none
Re: front suspension package?
thats cool..im probably gonna take my time through the winter and prep the car for paint...hopefully sometime in the middle of january ill have decided and purchased all the suspension components and rear end so i could get the car off the jack stands and back on the wheels so i could move it in and out of the garage if necessary. theres so many different options and i dont know what to go with..it doesn't help that i dont have much experience either. how often does spohn have sales? ill take into consideration your suggestion about the classifieds. id be curious to see how your upgrade progresses...hope it works out...keep me informed.
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 599
Likes: 1
From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1992 z28
Engine: 383 LT1 in the works
Transmission: T-56 in the works
Axle/Gears: 3.73 in the works
Re: front suspension package?
The best thing to do is to first decide what you want to get and be firm with it... because once you start buying parts and then if you decide to change something it may also cause you to change several other things and will just go downhill and seem like you are starting all over after spending so much money already and trying to sell stuff off.
I do not have that much experience myself but from reading the boards I just decided to go with this build and I am building this car only to be a weekend street car and a show car so that also plays a big role. I do plan to keep this car forever too (atleast I would like to) right now I am putting in a 383 LT1 but after I will upgrade with a procharger so my entire suspension will already be set so things will be easier in the future.
Everyone will have their opinion on different parts good and bad so you need to take what you read and go with what you believe. I may hate the coilovers.. who knows but we'll find out. Its impossible to find a car to test out with everything you want in it. I will def. keep everyone up to date on the build and things I come across.
I do not have that much experience myself but from reading the boards I just decided to go with this build and I am building this car only to be a weekend street car and a show car so that also plays a big role. I do plan to keep this car forever too (atleast I would like to) right now I am putting in a 383 LT1 but after I will upgrade with a procharger so my entire suspension will already be set so things will be easier in the future.
Everyone will have their opinion on different parts good and bad so you need to take what you read and go with what you believe. I may hate the coilovers.. who knows but we'll find out. Its impossible to find a car to test out with everything you want in it. I will def. keep everyone up to date on the build and things I come across.
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From: near chicago illinois
Car: have a 92 camaro rs...in pieces
Engine: none now...probably 383 stroker
Transmission: none yet
Axle/Gears: none
Re: front suspension package?
The best thing to do is to first decide what you want to get and be firm with it...
Everyone will have their opinion on different parts good and bad
I've heard it limits the size of the front tires you can run. Also, the front of the car isn't really designed to handle the weight of the car there. I've seen several people running them, so it must work.
Last edited by weaz4200; Dec 2, 2008 at 09:00 PM. Reason: grammer mistakes
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 599
Likes: 1
From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1992 z28
Engine: 383 LT1 in the works
Transmission: T-56 in the works
Axle/Gears: 3.73 in the works
Re: front suspension package?
Do a search on the front coilovers because I am almost certain I read that someone was able to run 275's without any problems with the coil overs which is plenty of tire for the front. If anyone knows otherwise please correct me.
Yea, I had the same issue as you are having now. It was taking me so long that I just took some opinions and started ordering. And when it comes down to it... if you have enough money to buy all this new stuff then you can afford to loose a couple dollars to sell some of this stuff if you end up not liking it. Atleast that is how I see it.
Yea, I had the same issue as you are having now. It was taking me so long that I just took some opinions and started ordering. And when it comes down to it... if you have enough money to buy all this new stuff then you can afford to loose a couple dollars to sell some of this stuff if you end up not liking it. Atleast that is how I see it.
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,491
Likes: 6
From: Cleveland, Ohio
Car: 89' IROC-Z
Engine: LO3
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-Bolt/2.73
Re: front suspension package?
Well this was a fun thread. Thanks to everyone for the reading...very informative...in all that i havent been at TGO in the past year (well I visited but thats it) so it was nice to come back and gain more info ever so easily.
IM BACK!!!
P.S. Great build and cant wait to see updates in the future.
IM BACK!!!
P.S. Great build and cant wait to see updates in the future.
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Posts: 475
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From: near chicago illinois
Car: have a 92 camaro rs...in pieces
Engine: none now...probably 383 stroker
Transmission: none yet
Axle/Gears: none
Re: front suspension package?
hey 91_5.7_TPI..do you think youd could spare some time and help me out as far as choosing the stuff i need to get a complete suspension...and maybe explaining some things as far as whats good and whats not..i just wanna get this stuff down on paper so i at least know what i need to order and how much i gotta save up. then once i know every part needed i can go down the list and choose what i wanna end up with. thanks.
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From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: front suspension package?
Sure, not a problem. What are you wanting to know? Give me a starting point.
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iTrader: (2)
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From: near chicago illinois
Car: have a 92 camaro rs...in pieces
Engine: none now...probably 383 stroker
Transmission: none yet
Axle/Gears: none
Re: front suspension package?
okay..hmm..well lets start with this...the coil over package.... http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...r-Package.html as far as the k-member material type what would you suggest? now the k-member braces and mounts...yes buy it or no dont need it? a-arm types..which would you go with and why? Coil-Over Kit Choices..with the choice of springs that offer....which ones do you suggest/why...would you know if i am limited to those springs...or would you look into getting different ones separately....as far as springs go...theres obviously many different brands to choose from...what do you suggest and why...what makes one spring superior to the other? i want the ride to be firm but i also dont wanna feel every little bump i hit either...now if i was to go with this package...then what else specifically would i need to order? i guess lets start with that for now...and bear with me as i will probably end up asking typical newbie questions..but i really wanna learn whats what and how and why it works. thanks...ROB
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 68
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Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: 406
Transmission: 350th
Axle/Gears: 373:1
Re: front suspension package?
First this thread has been a very informative thread! Thanks everyone!
weaz4200 it appears that you want to run stock tires on the car.
If that is the case, you probably will loose traction far before you feel the benefits of the sphon pieces you linked.
I would leave the kmember alone, or go with the sphon kit that uses stock springs.
The best springs for you're purpose is the Eibach Prokit. It is firm, and will lower your car, but it will not be too uncomfortable.
Koni Shocks are a must.
Good Luck with the build
weaz4200 it appears that you want to run stock tires on the car.
If that is the case, you probably will loose traction far before you feel the benefits of the sphon pieces you linked.
I would leave the kmember alone, or go with the sphon kit that uses stock springs.
The best springs for you're purpose is the Eibach Prokit. It is firm, and will lower your car, but it will not be too uncomfortable.
Koni Shocks are a must.
Good Luck with the build
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Posts: 2,820
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From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: front suspension package?
I've never been able to afford the Chromoly, but if you can swing it, I'm not aware of any reason not to use it.
I'd get the braces. The later 3rd gens came with the to act as a reinforcement.
The a-arm choice depends on how much you want to feel in the road and how much vibration you're willing to deal with. Personally, for a street driven car, I'd get the polyurathane.
I'm not sure on the spring rates, but since you're wanting to use the car for a cruiser, I'd say go with the lower or mid range springs (not the drag). But, I don't know what rear springs to match that with to balance the car. That's one reason I don't want the coil-over kit- not as much people with test and tune experience and results.
You can get springs to fit the kit after you get it if you want to play around with the spring rates. I think they are standard 2.5 or 3.5" coil springs. Brand (as long as they aren't cheapo bargain basement) isn't as important as the rates you choose. Nothing really makes on spring superior to the other as long as they are a quality spring from a reputable manufacturer as long as they fill the needs of the build and are safe. That being said, there are many options in the spring rate/sway bar combinations that lead to a car that handles/behaves in the way the driver desires.
If you were to buy that, you would need to buy all the stock pieces you are missing that I linked you to earlier. Also, you would need to buy some good shocks. I always reccomend KONIs. They are adjustable performance (thing handling, not drag racing) shock that come with a lifetime warranty. You pay for what you get though. Expect a complete set to cost in the neighborhood of $700. Good news is that the kit comes with strut mounts and the other major pieces you'll need. Also, if you don't have anything, you'll need spindles, brakes, hubs, etc.... I would reccomend ordering a complete brake kit from Ed Miller (ebmiller on here or go to his website to view his products). If you buy a complete kit, it will come with the spindle, hub, rotor, caliper, etc so you can just bolt it to the car and go.
Overwhelming the stock sized wheels depends on what tires you run. You can do alot with the right 245s. I know of a car that cuts a non-BS 1.07 skidpad on 245/50R16s. I think he used Goodyear Eagle GS-D3s. He doesn't have a k-member or anything else for that matter is why he is considering the kit from Spohn. It's not a good idea to say that one thing is the best for any one car. Every driver is differnt and likes the car to behave in different ways (hence almost no two cars are set up the same in any motor-sport). In addition, every car is different from differences in year to year production changes, different weights, different experiences during the cars life (in the realm of different stresses put on the car, wrecks, enviroment, etc).
But I agree, I would go with KONIs for the shocks.
I'd get the braces. The later 3rd gens came with the to act as a reinforcement.
The a-arm choice depends on how much you want to feel in the road and how much vibration you're willing to deal with. Personally, for a street driven car, I'd get the polyurathane.
I'm not sure on the spring rates, but since you're wanting to use the car for a cruiser, I'd say go with the lower or mid range springs (not the drag). But, I don't know what rear springs to match that with to balance the car. That's one reason I don't want the coil-over kit- not as much people with test and tune experience and results.
You can get springs to fit the kit after you get it if you want to play around with the spring rates. I think they are standard 2.5 or 3.5" coil springs. Brand (as long as they aren't cheapo bargain basement) isn't as important as the rates you choose. Nothing really makes on spring superior to the other as long as they are a quality spring from a reputable manufacturer as long as they fill the needs of the build and are safe. That being said, there are many options in the spring rate/sway bar combinations that lead to a car that handles/behaves in the way the driver desires.
If you were to buy that, you would need to buy all the stock pieces you are missing that I linked you to earlier. Also, you would need to buy some good shocks. I always reccomend KONIs. They are adjustable performance (thing handling, not drag racing) shock that come with a lifetime warranty. You pay for what you get though. Expect a complete set to cost in the neighborhood of $700. Good news is that the kit comes with strut mounts and the other major pieces you'll need. Also, if you don't have anything, you'll need spindles, brakes, hubs, etc.... I would reccomend ordering a complete brake kit from Ed Miller (ebmiller on here or go to his website to view his products). If you buy a complete kit, it will come with the spindle, hub, rotor, caliper, etc so you can just bolt it to the car and go.
Overwhelming the stock sized wheels depends on what tires you run. You can do alot with the right 245s. I know of a car that cuts a non-BS 1.07 skidpad on 245/50R16s. I think he used Goodyear Eagle GS-D3s. He doesn't have a k-member or anything else for that matter is why he is considering the kit from Spohn. It's not a good idea to say that one thing is the best for any one car. Every driver is differnt and likes the car to behave in different ways (hence almost no two cars are set up the same in any motor-sport). In addition, every car is different from differences in year to year production changes, different weights, different experiences during the cars life (in the realm of different stresses put on the car, wrecks, enviroment, etc).
But I agree, I would go with KONIs for the shocks.
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From: near chicago illinois
Car: have a 92 camaro rs...in pieces
Engine: none now...probably 383 stroker
Transmission: none yet
Axle/Gears: none
Re: front suspension package?
406z i dont necessarily wanna run stock tires on the car i just like the way the stock rims look,but the ones i have arent in the best condition anyways so im probably not gonna use them..just trying to find out what works man. okay now let me get my pen and paper ready...91_5.7_TPI...let me start with this...i dont want the coil over kit im just using it for reference since they dont have a kit for the stock spring layout. I'll probably order each part seperately. now here comes a barage of question... so if i go with k-member for stock springs (http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...C-BBC-LT1.html) with these options selected 4130n chrome moly material/stock springs type/motor mount pads sbc/bbd/lt1/with brace mounts and brace...now as far as the a-arms..(http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...ing-Boxes.html) same chrome moly/polyurethane bushings(which takes care of #1 #3 and #4 on the front suspension 101 list) then sway bar (http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...Front-Bar.html) (this takes care of #5 #9 and #10) then upper strut mounts with retainers (http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...ock-Style.html) and finally this rebiuld kit (http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...build-Kit.html) (so that should take care of #2 #6 #11 #12 and #13) leaving me with #7 pitman arm and #8 spindles..but you say getting a complete brake kit from Ed Miller will almost finish off everything i need..right? (so that would take care of #8.) so whats left then, as far as the front end...shocks and springs i think..right? so go through this and let me know if theres places that i can improve as far as better parts from somewhere else or if you know of other brands/companies i should look at as far as individual parts that would keep a couple of extra bux in my pocket..ill end on that for know..thanks for you help so far 91_5.7_TPI..and everyone else thats given me some good info. i appreciate it.
Last edited by weaz4200; Dec 6, 2008 at 07:55 PM. Reason: link was messed up..sorry
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,820
Likes: 5
From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: front suspension package?
I'd reccomend getting stock GM sway bars. They are cheaper, pretty easy to find and work just as well as the aftermarket pieces. The Spohn piece is good, but for the money you can get 2-4 GM bars to play around with when tuning the suspension. But, you'll have to buy bushings for each size bar you buy. The endlinks interchange with any bar.
Also, I'd go with the fabricated Spohn strut mounts if you are lowering the car. Or, I'd get the ones from hotpart.com. Both are superior to stock pieces and will last longer, offer more suspension travel allignment adjustment. The Hotpart pieces also come with a lifetime warranty (and they are cheaper than the comparable Spohn parts).
I also reccomend getting the KONIs (if you choose KONIs) from Hotpart. They offer the best prices I've seen.
You'll still need to find a pitman arm, but you can get that easily. The kit you buy from Ed will come with the complete brake package as well as new hubs and spindles, so you are set there. When choosing the brakes, pay attention to what you get. What size brakes you get will determine what size wheel you will have to run to clear the brakes. Some will fit in 16s, most within in 17s and some will require 18s.
Also, I'd go with the fabricated Spohn strut mounts if you are lowering the car. Or, I'd get the ones from hotpart.com. Both are superior to stock pieces and will last longer, offer more suspension travel allignment adjustment. The Hotpart pieces also come with a lifetime warranty (and they are cheaper than the comparable Spohn parts).
I also reccomend getting the KONIs (if you choose KONIs) from Hotpart. They offer the best prices I've seen.
You'll still need to find a pitman arm, but you can get that easily. The kit you buy from Ed will come with the complete brake package as well as new hubs and spindles, so you are set there. When choosing the brakes, pay attention to what you get. What size brakes you get will determine what size wheel you will have to run to clear the brakes. Some will fit in 16s, most within in 17s and some will require 18s.
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 475
Likes: 0
From: near chicago illinois
Car: have a 92 camaro rs...in pieces
Engine: none now...probably 383 stroker
Transmission: none yet
Axle/Gears: none
Re: front suspension package?
okay..so lets start with this...considering you didnt say anything about some of the other stuff... im thinking your giving those parts thumbs up. now as far as your last post..you say GM sway bars..how do you (I) decide what size bar i need? (whats the benefit). you talking about these strut mounts? (http://www.hotpart.com/shop/index.ph...ail&p=8)..look good to me..one thing though..you wouldnt know if they come with the retainers? KONIs..alright..ill take your word for it. pitman arm..well i got the stock one...i guess i could use that if it'll work. lastly as far as the complete brake package from ED..what would you recommend and why? to be honest i dont even know what size tire i want let alone what size would be the best option for what im doin. oh one other thing..a lot of you guys talk about springs to lower the car...im not saying that i wouldnt do it...but the camaro is already pretty low..i dont want it so low that depending on what headers i get they scrape up on the pavement... cause i had a guy put headers on my charger and one sticks down a little lower than the other..and he suggested i dont go too crazy if i decid to lower the car. dont know if there could be a problem with that....just puttin it out there. i know that ive already said this and its getting repetative..but thanks...hope you'll tough it out with me until i know 100% what it is im doin...cause when i was trying to figure out what to do as far as the engine...i had a guy help me out for a while and then he bailed cause he thought i was pullin his leg..that it wasnt possible that someone knows so little...so we parted ways... so yeah..i guess thats it for now...later.
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,525
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From: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 with Edelbrock ProFlow EFI
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt 3.73 Eaton posi
Re: front suspension package?
I also give those parts a thumbs up! I have them on my car as well (at least most of them).
The sway bar sizes you would use depend mostly on how you like the car to drive and what the power level of your engine is/how heavy your right foot is. If you have tons of power, go with a smaller rear bar so the back doesn't always want to pass you (oversteer). If you want to car to have oversteer, then go with a big rear bar. If you want the car to push/plow through turns (understeer), then get a huge front bar and a smaller rear bar. Many people go with the 36mm hollow front bar, and either 21, 23, or 24mm solid rear bar. All the previously mentioned bars are GM. I run the 36/24 combo and I'm thinking about going smaller with the rear bar... but then again I still have a few suspension mods to do before next season.
If you want a 36mm bar, I have one for sale... it's already painted, just need bushings and it's ready to install.
Yeah, those strut mounts are the thing to get. I have them on my car and love it. The retainers are included so you don't have to use the stockers.
Koni Yellows (Sports) are a gift from God.
Ahh... brakes... so many options...
It all depends on the wheel size (diameter) you will be using and what your budget will allow. For example the largest you can go with a 16" wheel is the Corvette C4 HD brake package... with 17" it is the Corvette C5 brake package and with 18" it is either the Corvette C6 or the Cadillac CTS brake package. the furhter along that list the more $ it will be. Personally, I will be installing the LS1 brakes (about equivalint to C4 HD brakes) in the Spring. They are a great budget brake upgrade ($500 or less for the fronts) and they are a ton better then the stock junk. Then again, I'm only limiting my brake upgrade because I can't afford a new set of wheels at the same time... I gotta start saving for college sometime soon.
I recommend either 17" or 18" wheels unless you will be doing a lot of drag racing. The 17"/18" wheels have the best selection of tires at the moment. I would also recommend going at least 9" wide for the wheels. This will allow a 275 to 295 tire. If you want, 17"x9.5" wheels with 275/40/17 tires will even fit all the way around without mods of any kind to the car.
The Camaro isn't really that low... unless your springs are sagging, but I'm still young and can crawl into vehicles easily so what do I know
. The only way your headers will scrap the pavement is if you buy long tube headers. Shorties will not be a problem unless you go crazy like a 4"-5" drop. Many people on these boards, including myself, have purchased the Eibach Pro-kit springs for use in our cars. It lowers the vehicle by 1" front and back but they are still stiff enough that the car won't bottom out, that is unless you pretend your the Dukes of Hazzard and you end up airborne... However, after buying the Pro-kit springs for my car, I wish I would have bought something stiffer. I think the front of my car still rolls too much, but then again I could care less about comfort since I only put about 2,000 miles on my car every year and I do a bunch of autocrossing.
Don't worry, there are plenty of people on this board to fall back on if one of us decides to leave you hanging.
Mike
Keep the questions coming... that's what we're here for.
The sway bar sizes you would use depend mostly on how you like the car to drive and what the power level of your engine is/how heavy your right foot is. If you have tons of power, go with a smaller rear bar so the back doesn't always want to pass you (oversteer). If you want to car to have oversteer, then go with a big rear bar. If you want the car to push/plow through turns (understeer), then get a huge front bar and a smaller rear bar. Many people go with the 36mm hollow front bar, and either 21, 23, or 24mm solid rear bar. All the previously mentioned bars are GM. I run the 36/24 combo and I'm thinking about going smaller with the rear bar... but then again I still have a few suspension mods to do before next season.
If you want a 36mm bar, I have one for sale... it's already painted, just need bushings and it's ready to install.
Yeah, those strut mounts are the thing to get. I have them on my car and love it. The retainers are included so you don't have to use the stockers.
Koni Yellows (Sports) are a gift from God.
Ahh... brakes... so many options...
It all depends on the wheel size (diameter) you will be using and what your budget will allow. For example the largest you can go with a 16" wheel is the Corvette C4 HD brake package... with 17" it is the Corvette C5 brake package and with 18" it is either the Corvette C6 or the Cadillac CTS brake package. the furhter along that list the more $ it will be. Personally, I will be installing the LS1 brakes (about equivalint to C4 HD brakes) in the Spring. They are a great budget brake upgrade ($500 or less for the fronts) and they are a ton better then the stock junk. Then again, I'm only limiting my brake upgrade because I can't afford a new set of wheels at the same time... I gotta start saving for college sometime soon.
I recommend either 17" or 18" wheels unless you will be doing a lot of drag racing. The 17"/18" wheels have the best selection of tires at the moment. I would also recommend going at least 9" wide for the wheels. This will allow a 275 to 295 tire. If you want, 17"x9.5" wheels with 275/40/17 tires will even fit all the way around without mods of any kind to the car.
The Camaro isn't really that low... unless your springs are sagging, but I'm still young and can crawl into vehicles easily so what do I know
. The only way your headers will scrap the pavement is if you buy long tube headers. Shorties will not be a problem unless you go crazy like a 4"-5" drop. Many people on these boards, including myself, have purchased the Eibach Pro-kit springs for use in our cars. It lowers the vehicle by 1" front and back but they are still stiff enough that the car won't bottom out, that is unless you pretend your the Dukes of Hazzard and you end up airborne... However, after buying the Pro-kit springs for my car, I wish I would have bought something stiffer. I think the front of my car still rolls too much, but then again I could care less about comfort since I only put about 2,000 miles on my car every year and I do a bunch of autocrossing.Don't worry, there are plenty of people on this board to fall back on if one of us decides to leave you hanging.
Mike
Keep the questions coming... that's what we're here for.
Last edited by racing geek; Dec 8, 2008 at 11:28 PM.
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iTrader: (2)
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,820
Likes: 5
From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: front suspension package?
Hey, I wasn't leaving him hanging...it's called finals lol.
If you want a performance shock that'll last, I reccomend the KONIs. They are a bit pricey, but I reccomend them if you like playing in the twisties any.
Unless you are planning to Auto-x/road race alot or competitivly, the LS1 upgrade would be a good idea. Pretty inexpensive and alot more effective than the stock junk.
If you want a performance shock that'll last, I reccomend the KONIs. They are a bit pricey, but I reccomend them if you like playing in the twisties any.
Unless you are planning to Auto-x/road race alot or competitivly, the LS1 upgrade would be a good idea. Pretty inexpensive and alot more effective than the stock junk.
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 475
Likes: 0
From: near chicago illinois
Car: have a 92 camaro rs...in pieces
Engine: none now...probably 383 stroker
Transmission: none yet
Axle/Gears: none
Re: front suspension package?
just some info on what im looking to do as far as engine and rear end...the engine.. a 383 stroker..dont know how much power...but im thinking somewhere between 450 and 500 HP. the rear end..well lots of people have suggested the ford 9" rear..spohn has a moser engineering 9" complete..so i was thinking of doin that..but i dont know what options to choose yet...one guy suggested 3.70 gears..but thats about it...so ill have to ask around still to find out what options would be the best for my build. now to the topic at hand... what exactly do you mean by oversteer/understeer. with the info i just gave you id wanna do what smaller rear bar/bigger front? im not gonna be takin crazy turns..mostly off the line. i think i said this earlier..but right now the car is gonna be a couple of times a week driver, if that...not racing or autocross..at least not right now..maybe sometime down the road,ill take it to the track and drag race...but im not thinkin that far ahead yet. okay then..so strut mounts..thumbs up..and the Konis too..now as far as the brakes...well i got a couple of questions...what do i do as far as the front and rear tires? do i want them to match size wise..or smaller and wider rear/taller and thinner front...or taller and wider rear/shorter and thinner front? so if i went with the the 9" rear from spohn..what would i choose as far as all the options they offer...i know thats more of a drivetrain part of the forum question, but ill ask anyways... it has options as far as wheel studs/rear brakes/ and sway bar install kit, so im thinking it is some what relevant in this case. (http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...-Complete.html) in regards to springs...i used to have a 92 camaro 7 years ago..totaled it..now i just got another one...and both are similar when driving..it seems like you could drive over the smallest rock or crack in the road and feel it alot... like its way to stiff. but also when i drove the first camaro on the highway and i hit a bump i could feel the car shift slightly..not too much..but enough to notice it...dont know what would cause that..just putting it out there...i guess thats it right now...cool..thanks...later.
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iTrader: (2)
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,820
Likes: 5
From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: front suspension package?
What transmission are you going to get? Since you are building the car from the ground up, you might want to look into LS1 or one of the LS family engine.
Oversteering is when the back of the car breaks traction first and comes around on you (whether it be under throttle or not). Understeer is when the front end breaks loose first and goes straight while you are trying to turn. Now, as for oversteer, there are two basic kinds- throttle over steer (what you get when you use too much throttle in a turn and the tires start spinning) and understeer from the suspension being unbalanced. If the car is prone to oversteer, it'll do it without throttle. These problems (problems caused by the car being unbalanced) aren't going to occur at any time- they happen when then the force of the car in the turn overcome the amount of traction provided by the tires. Whether you have over or understeer depends on how the suspension is set up. Most prefer the car to understeer, because this will allow (in most cases) to properly apply braking and bring the car undercontrol. Oversteer on the other hand is harder to control and braking usually won't work, at least in my experience. I have 36mm front and 24mm rear and I like how the car handles. Fairly nuetral and smooth for the kind of driving I do. I did have a 36/25, and it caused the car to oversteer and throttle really worsened the problem. The choice of bars depends alot on application. For drag racing/street use, the larger rear bars help in keeping the rear planted and even. This helps in off the line acceleration, but you'll loose ground in the cornering department.
If you're planning on maybe using the car for a corner carver, I'd get the KONIs now. If not, get something like TOKICOs. They don't have the warranty or performance of the KONIs, but they will do a better job than stock or stock replacements. I've made up my mind from the difference the KONIs made in mine that any car I buy will get KONIs ASAP, though.
The wheel tire size is alot of personal preference. But, a general rule of thumb (for stuff other than just looks) is to get the smallest wheel that'll fit over your brakes. Larger wheels are heavier, and that's not good. You want to minimize rotating mass and unsprung weight for any application. Personally, (because my car is a daily driver) I like to have the same size tires all around ( Set 1-245/50R16s Set 2-275/40R17s) so that I can rotate them. But, for drag racing, you might want two set (like I have). One for driving/street use and another for getting quater mile times.
I've covered the stuff about the rear end up above...
These cars won't ride 'well' no matter what you do. They are a sports car designed and built with nearly 30 year old technology. Playing around with shock/spring combinations is the best way to get a good ride. Combining a good ride with good handling isn't easy in these cars. It can be done, but it gets expensive. I would think by minimizing weight (especially unsprung weight) as much as possible would help. The lighter the car, the easier it is to control and softer springs and shock valving are required. That means a better ride, in theory at least. Ride is also subjective. I prefer the ride of my car (smooth and even, on the highway, but rough on bumps and bad condition roads) to cars that ride smooth (and bouncy).
Oversteering is when the back of the car breaks traction first and comes around on you (whether it be under throttle or not). Understeer is when the front end breaks loose first and goes straight while you are trying to turn. Now, as for oversteer, there are two basic kinds- throttle over steer (what you get when you use too much throttle in a turn and the tires start spinning) and understeer from the suspension being unbalanced. If the car is prone to oversteer, it'll do it without throttle. These problems (problems caused by the car being unbalanced) aren't going to occur at any time- they happen when then the force of the car in the turn overcome the amount of traction provided by the tires. Whether you have over or understeer depends on how the suspension is set up. Most prefer the car to understeer, because this will allow (in most cases) to properly apply braking and bring the car undercontrol. Oversteer on the other hand is harder to control and braking usually won't work, at least in my experience. I have 36mm front and 24mm rear and I like how the car handles. Fairly nuetral and smooth for the kind of driving I do. I did have a 36/25, and it caused the car to oversteer and throttle really worsened the problem. The choice of bars depends alot on application. For drag racing/street use, the larger rear bars help in keeping the rear planted and even. This helps in off the line acceleration, but you'll loose ground in the cornering department.
If you're planning on maybe using the car for a corner carver, I'd get the KONIs now. If not, get something like TOKICOs. They don't have the warranty or performance of the KONIs, but they will do a better job than stock or stock replacements. I've made up my mind from the difference the KONIs made in mine that any car I buy will get KONIs ASAP, though.
The wheel tire size is alot of personal preference. But, a general rule of thumb (for stuff other than just looks) is to get the smallest wheel that'll fit over your brakes. Larger wheels are heavier, and that's not good. You want to minimize rotating mass and unsprung weight for any application. Personally, (because my car is a daily driver) I like to have the same size tires all around ( Set 1-245/50R16s Set 2-275/40R17s) so that I can rotate them. But, for drag racing, you might want two set (like I have). One for driving/street use and another for getting quater mile times.
I've covered the stuff about the rear end up above...
Rear ends... I like the ones on women....
Haha. It should technically go in the drivetrain fourm, but I'll answer it here since you've already started this thread. I admit my knowledge isn't complete on the subject, but I'll help where I can.
Well, it depends on how much power you are planning to make with the engine. That will determine the number of splines you'll need I don't know alot about what power level requires how many spindles, but the design of the 9" is alot better than the stock 10 bolt. The stock also has either 26 or 28 spline axles. Also, if you are going to drive the car on the street alot, I'd reccomend not getting a spool. They are primarily for drag racing and if I recall correctly, they always rotate the wheels at the same speed. That's not something you want for turning corners.
The axle options are drilled or non-drilled. The drilled ones have the center of the axle drilled out. It makes them lighter.
At least I think this is what that means, but I'm not completely sure.
I don't know much about the flange options, so I won't tell you anything that might be wrong.
I would get the aluminum case if it were me. It's lighter and reducing unsprung weight is very important in most applications.
The gear ratio depends on the power band of the engine, what transmission you use, and your intended use. For instance, if you build an engine with a power range from ~1500-6000 and ran a six speed transmission, and planned a combination of street driving and drag racing, I'd probably use the 3.89 or 4.11.
The wheel studs are what the wheel's lug nuts are attached to. The longer ones will be required for certain wheel/brake combinations.
The drain/fill bunges are installed before they send you the rear end. The fill bunge will be on the top of the differential casing and will allow you easily put in differential fluid. The drain will be on the bottom and allow you to easily drain old fluid.
The sway bar installation kit will be what you'll need to install a rear sway bar. I don't think the stock pieces will mate to the aftermarket rear, so I'd probably buy a set from them. You'll most likely want a rear bar.
If you are using a stock or stock replacement driveshaft, you'll need the conversion U-joint.
If I were ordering, I would order with the lower control relocation brackets installed. It's a good idea to have the adjustability if you lower the car for both better handling and improved launch traction.
The finish is your option, but powdercoating will look alot better than the bare finish and lasts a good while.
Haha. It should technically go in the drivetrain fourm, but I'll answer it here since you've already started this thread. I admit my knowledge isn't complete on the subject, but I'll help where I can.
Well, it depends on how much power you are planning to make with the engine. That will determine the number of splines you'll need I don't know alot about what power level requires how many spindles, but the design of the 9" is alot better than the stock 10 bolt. The stock also has either 26 or 28 spline axles. Also, if you are going to drive the car on the street alot, I'd reccomend not getting a spool. They are primarily for drag racing and if I recall correctly, they always rotate the wheels at the same speed. That's not something you want for turning corners.
The axle options are drilled or non-drilled. The drilled ones have the center of the axle drilled out. It makes them lighter.
At least I think this is what that means, but I'm not completely sure.
I don't know much about the flange options, so I won't tell you anything that might be wrong.
I would get the aluminum case if it were me. It's lighter and reducing unsprung weight is very important in most applications.
The gear ratio depends on the power band of the engine, what transmission you use, and your intended use. For instance, if you build an engine with a power range from ~1500-6000 and ran a six speed transmission, and planned a combination of street driving and drag racing, I'd probably use the 3.89 or 4.11.
The wheel studs are what the wheel's lug nuts are attached to. The longer ones will be required for certain wheel/brake combinations.
The drain/fill bunges are installed before they send you the rear end. The fill bunge will be on the top of the differential casing and will allow you easily put in differential fluid. The drain will be on the bottom and allow you to easily drain old fluid.
The sway bar installation kit will be what you'll need to install a rear sway bar. I don't think the stock pieces will mate to the aftermarket rear, so I'd probably buy a set from them. You'll most likely want a rear bar.
If you are using a stock or stock replacement driveshaft, you'll need the conversion U-joint.
If I were ordering, I would order with the lower control relocation brackets installed. It's a good idea to have the adjustability if you lower the car for both better handling and improved launch traction.
The finish is your option, but powdercoating will look alot better than the bare finish and lasts a good while.
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 475
Likes: 0
From: near chicago illinois
Car: have a 92 camaro rs...in pieces
Engine: none now...probably 383 stroker
Transmission: none yet
Axle/Gears: none
Re: front suspension package?
ohh yeah..sorry..my bad...i forgot you replied to rear end question...i guess my minds all over the place trying to address every aspect of the build....all the info is getting mixed up along the way...the trans..well someone suggested i just get another 7000r4 since the car is already set up for it...i just like the fact that all i have to do is just pop it in and bolt...i dont really know how much work is involved in adapting a different trans to the car...you say LS1..why..which one where you thinking exactly? let me try to see if i got this...so oversteering is kinda like drifting your car? and understeering would mean you have enough control to where you basically wouldn't totally wipe out?(does that sound about right?)so you say 36/24..okay..but how much of a difference is there exactly between the 24mm and the 25mm? cant you do something in the middle..where it give you a balance between oversteering and understeering? yeah..konis..ill take your word for it and get some..you obviously know your stuff...and i could always change em up for something different if i want...its not like having to replace a cam or crank from the engine...one last thing...i probably didnt ask the question right...part of the question is..you suggested i check out ed millers site of brake kits..what do you think would be my best option?..and the second part of the question is...let say (for example) i go with the Corvette C4 HD brake package for the front...now the spohn site for the 9" rear give you the option of rear brakes(7th down in the list)... they got three options in particular..82-92 9 bolt disc brakes..82-92 10 bolt disc brakes..and other(spohn will contact)...now what i was wondering as far as that is..do i go with one of the first two options or try to talk with them and tell them i want the same brakes im doin with the front?... that is one option you skipped over. thats understandable..but i got a 74 charger magnum in descent condition and i really like the way the suspension handles.used to be my dads(hes gone now so i cant ask him what was done). but as far as the charger goes i dont think he did any major stuff to it...i think my uncle said it has shocks that can be adjusted with air...thats all i think he really did as far as suspension goes..and its a soon to be 35 year old car..but it could be like comparing apples and oranges..2 totally different cars...well thats all i got for now..thanks..be back soon.
Oversteering is when the back of the car breaks traction first and comes around on you (whether it be under throttle or not). Understeer is when the front end breaks loose first and goes straight while you are trying to turn.
These cars won't ride 'well' no matter what you do. They are a sports car designed and built with nearly 30 year old technology.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,820
Likes: 5
From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: front suspension package?
The 700R4 would bolt right in and work, but they aren't a very strong transmission. I don't know how it would hold up to the kind of power you plan to make. Using a T56 (six speed manual) is a good option. They are alot stronger than a 700R4, but you'll have to get a manual shift plate, install clutch pedals, etc. If you want to stay with an overdrive automatic, I would look into a newer design, like the 4L60Es. It's essentially a redesigned (internally) 700R4 with electronic shift control.
The LS1 conversion is really involved and there's alot of work to it. But, the benefits are great. They get alot better gas mileage than a convention Chevy carbed V8, they have really good horserpower per dollar (after the cost of inition install). I'm planning one for mine when I get the money.
Controlled oversteering is what drifters do, yes. But that's throttle oversteer. Both understeer and oversteer are considered loss of control, it just depends on which end does it first. Non-throttle oversteer is the result of the suspension being balanced toward breaking traction in the rear first. Understeer is the when the front lets go first. For most people, understeer is more controllable.
If I recall correctly and the information is correct, a 24mm bar is ~80% the stiffness of a 25. The 25 is was aftermarket and made of a harder steel. There's not really any middle ground, and the way the suspension interacts with the car depends alot on the other components of the car as well- weight, tire/wheel size, spring rates, shock valving, etc. The suspension is a system- you can't think of one thing on it's own, you have to consider each piece and how it interacts with everything else.
The 'best' option for the brakes is a tricky question. The 'best' he offers, in my opinion, is probably this WilWood kit. The C6 Z06/ZR1 kits are larger, but I've heard that the pads/rotors are expensive and they have multiple (more than the standard 2) pads per caliper. But, the question is, will you need that much brakes? Or, if you don't need it, do you still want it lol? I honestly don't know the technical differences between the different stock set-ups. But, I do know that the C5 caliper is essentially the same as the LS1 calipers except they have smaller pistons but are stronger due to the forging process. I would send ebmiller a PM and discuss your needs/wants with him for a better answer than I can provide.
As for the rear brakes, I would probably try to get the LS1 style (98-02) rear brakes. They are a stock piece, so parts will be easy to find. The 9 bolt (82-88 I think) rear brakes aren't as good as the 10 bolt (89-97) and the 98-02s are better than either of them. Or, if you're going with a larger than stock front brake, you might want to contact them to find out what WilWood they offer. Also, if you are going to run larger than stock wheels (17x9.5s) you'l most likely find them in 4th gen fitments. If you buy the same rear end from the 4th gen section, it'll be longer from end to end and you won't need rear spacers. I have a stock rear from a 95 in mine at the time being.
The LS1 conversion is really involved and there's alot of work to it. But, the benefits are great. They get alot better gas mileage than a convention Chevy carbed V8, they have really good horserpower per dollar (after the cost of inition install). I'm planning one for mine when I get the money.
Controlled oversteering is what drifters do, yes. But that's throttle oversteer. Both understeer and oversteer are considered loss of control, it just depends on which end does it first. Non-throttle oversteer is the result of the suspension being balanced toward breaking traction in the rear first. Understeer is the when the front lets go first. For most people, understeer is more controllable.
If I recall correctly and the information is correct, a 24mm bar is ~80% the stiffness of a 25. The 25 is was aftermarket and made of a harder steel. There's not really any middle ground, and the way the suspension interacts with the car depends alot on the other components of the car as well- weight, tire/wheel size, spring rates, shock valving, etc. The suspension is a system- you can't think of one thing on it's own, you have to consider each piece and how it interacts with everything else.
The 'best' option for the brakes is a tricky question. The 'best' he offers, in my opinion, is probably this WilWood kit. The C6 Z06/ZR1 kits are larger, but I've heard that the pads/rotors are expensive and they have multiple (more than the standard 2) pads per caliper. But, the question is, will you need that much brakes? Or, if you don't need it, do you still want it lol? I honestly don't know the technical differences between the different stock set-ups. But, I do know that the C5 caliper is essentially the same as the LS1 calipers except they have smaller pistons but are stronger due to the forging process. I would send ebmiller a PM and discuss your needs/wants with him for a better answer than I can provide.
As for the rear brakes, I would probably try to get the LS1 style (98-02) rear brakes. They are a stock piece, so parts will be easy to find. The 9 bolt (82-88 I think) rear brakes aren't as good as the 10 bolt (89-97) and the 98-02s are better than either of them. Or, if you're going with a larger than stock front brake, you might want to contact them to find out what WilWood they offer. Also, if you are going to run larger than stock wheels (17x9.5s) you'l most likely find them in 4th gen fitments. If you buy the same rear end from the 4th gen section, it'll be longer from end to end and you won't need rear spacers. I have a stock rear from a 95 in mine at the time being.