Suspension and Chassis Questions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?

build advice?

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Old Nov 14, 2008 | 11:36 PM
  #1  
flying89's Avatar
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From: Owensboro KY
Car: 1989 Camaro RS Drag Car
Engine: SBC 388 Stroker 93 pump gas
Transmission: Built turbo 350 3500 tci converter
Axle/Gears: Stock axles 4.10 gears
build advice?

Ok so im building a 89 t top car. Is goin to be a drag car maybe drove on street once in a blue moon. its going to have a 388 stroker and turbo 350 trans. has 4.11 gears with mini spool rear end. on DOT street slicks. wat suspension ideas does everyone have. its on a budget so try to think a lil on cheap side lol. thanks

Last edited by flying89; Nov 14, 2008 at 11:43 PM.
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Old Nov 17, 2008 | 11:47 AM
  #2  
Shagwell's Avatar
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From: Southwest Florida
Car: projects.......
Re: build advice?

You need to do utilize the search button and do some serious research.

First off, if it's going to be a 90%+ drag-race only use, why start with a t-top? That's extra weight and less strength to begin with.
Second, if any NHRA/IHRA track knew you were running a mini-spool they'd throw you out. Those things are designed/recomended for circle track only use for good reason. While we're on that subject, a mini-spool in our stock 10-bolt's are really great at helping break parts.

As for the actual suspension pieces, bolt-in aftermaket stuff works very well in these cars. Like I said, do some research. - Not trying to be harsh, hope I'm not coming off the wrong way.
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Old Nov 17, 2008 | 12:36 PM
  #3  
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From: Williamstown, NJ
Car: '98 Mustang GT
Engine: '03 4.6L
Transmission: T45
Axle/Gears: DK
Re: build advice?

Even though the T-top bodies do flex, a lot of guys build them into race cars anyway. I just prefer hardtops. You can always strengthen the car.
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Old Nov 17, 2008 | 01:38 PM
  #4  
Shagwell's Avatar
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From: Southwest Florida
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Re: build advice?

Originally Posted by Rich2279
Even though the T-top bodies do flex, a lot of guys build them into race cars anyway. I just prefer hardtops. You can always strengthen the car.
Strength wasn't my main concern, as you said, you can always strengthen the car. Why carry the extra weight of the glass tops and the mounting system? Even in a minimum weight class it's always nice to be able to add balast that way you can put the weight wherever it works best for you.
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Old Nov 17, 2008 | 02:07 PM
  #5  
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From: Bedford Tx
Car: 1991 Z28 1LE
Engine: 370CID GenIII
Transmission: 4l60e
Axle/Gears: 4.33 Moser 9inch
Re: build advice?

yeah as mentioned that mini spool is a bad ideah, in fact alot of power and sticky tires with that 10bolt rear end is a bad idea....i know u dont want to hear it but u need to buy an aftermarket 9inch or 12bolt rear. get it with a detroit locker if u want to drive on the street at all otherwise just get the full spool rear and have at. i also second the bolt on suspension mods, dont go coil over have fun.....
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 08:51 PM
  #6  
flying89's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Owensboro KY
Car: 1989 Camaro RS Drag Car
Engine: SBC 388 Stroker 93 pump gas
Transmission: Built turbo 350 3500 tci converter
Axle/Gears: Stock axles 4.10 gears
Re: build advice?

the t top car was free thats the reason i chose it. the mini spool is allowed at nhra tracks i know i have raced for 6 years and ran a car with one in it for 2 years. the car will need subframe braces and as for the body i dont know maybe a roll bar? the tops proly will be out and they arent that heavy
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 06:50 PM
  #7  
WIll36's Avatar
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Posts: 383
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From: NY
Car: 88IROC, 91Z28 + parts cars
Engine: 355, 408
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LS1, 9" w/ 4.56 and spool
Re: build advice?

quote:the tops proly will be out and they arent that heavy:
what track would let you run with T-tops out of a car? All the ones I've been to have it as a rule to roll up the windows before you get to the burnout box? I would also vote for aftermarket bolt in stuff. 90/10 drag shocks in the front for weight transfer and UMI or PA rear suspension stuff to start and keep it budget friendly and add more later on. Also definetly recomend atleast an 8pt role cage for 200 bucks it will make a notable difference, cause of how much it stiffens the chassis
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Old Nov 21, 2008 | 10:16 AM
  #8  
Shagwell's Avatar
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From: Southwest Florida
Car: projects.......
Re: build advice?

NHRA tech inspectors will not let you run if they know you have a mini-spool. That's not to say you haven't been down an NHRA certified track before, just that actual NHRA tech will not allow a mini-spool. Even the manufacturer's state that they are designed for circle track use only. - Either way, stock axles in these cars will not handle the load of a mini-spool, and as soon as you start spending money on axles and other parts to make it live you quickly spend more than the cost of a real rear end.

Depending on your speed, they may not let you run w/o the tops in. - Yes, if you plan on going fast, put a cage in it now. It's always better to have more chassis than required than to not have enough.
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Old Nov 22, 2008 | 12:29 AM
  #9  
flying89's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 28
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From: Owensboro KY
Car: 1989 Camaro RS Drag Car
Engine: SBC 388 Stroker 93 pump gas
Transmission: Built turbo 350 3500 tci converter
Axle/Gears: Stock axles 4.10 gears
Re: build advice?

lexan tops will be in place thats how the glass tops will come out.
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