Proper Procedure for Wheel Bearing Replacement
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 544
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From: Aiken, SC
Car: 91 Z/28, 89 RS Race Car
Engine: 305 stock / ZZ4 AFR 195 9.7:1
Transmission: T5 / t10 / Jerico
Axle/Gears: 10blt w 3.42, 9 in w /3.80 DL
Proper Procedure for Wheel Bearing Replacement
My wheel bearing feel loose and am am getting serious pad knock on race track.
The front hubs are 1 LE rotors cut down to hubs to use an Ed Miller 13 in Wilwood kit.
I recently removed the bearings and thourghly cleaned them and repacked with Lucas Grease.
I overtightened the bearing on the advice of someone to try to take out the slack. I believe that I may have made the problem worse.
Pad knock is now worse. and I can feel slight movement in the wheel with the car on jack stands. I can not hear any roar nor do I feel any binding.
Anyway what is the best procedure for replacing the races and bearings and what is the best procedure for properly lubing and reinstalling and setting tension. I can not buy new rotors with new races as I now have hubs.
Also what is the best grease.
The front hubs are 1 LE rotors cut down to hubs to use an Ed Miller 13 in Wilwood kit.
I recently removed the bearings and thourghly cleaned them and repacked with Lucas Grease.
I overtightened the bearing on the advice of someone to try to take out the slack. I believe that I may have made the problem worse.
Pad knock is now worse. and I can feel slight movement in the wheel with the car on jack stands. I can not hear any roar nor do I feel any binding.
Anyway what is the best procedure for replacing the races and bearings and what is the best procedure for properly lubing and reinstalling and setting tension. I can not buy new rotors with new races as I now have hubs.
Also what is the best grease.
Last edited by SDIF; Dec 30, 2008 at 10:48 PM.
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From: East Tennesse
Car: 1991 RS Camaro
Engine: L03 (want LS1)
Transmission: 700R-4 (and T56)
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 3.23 posi
Re: Proper Procedure for Wheel Bearing Replacement
I'd check the races and bearings for damage since you think you over tightened. When you packed the bearings, did you work the grease all the way throught the bearings? I went to a local guy that builds race cars and things like that for a living when I installed mine. He showed me how to pack the bearings and install the hub on the spindle. He said you want to get the nut snug, but not tight enough to press the bearings into the races (enought to cause them to cut into the race).
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From: N. CA
Car: '85 TA
Engine: Aluminum Fuelie
Transmission: Mother of All Manuals
Re: Proper Procedure for Wheel Bearing Replacement
I've had a few auto mechanics tell me to snug the spindle nut (don't over-tighten, just snug it so that all the parts are pressed together, probably moderate hand torque), then back it off 3/4 turn and put the cotter pin through it. This is how I've done it over the years and I've never had any problems.
As far as grease goes, I use disc brake wheel bearing grease, as it withstands higher temperatures than regular wheel bearing grease. Get some gloves on and rub the grease in the bearings, rotating them around until they are packed, and then install the bearing. Once the bearing is in, spin it and push in some more grease, and then mount the hub.
As far as grease goes, I use disc brake wheel bearing grease, as it withstands higher temperatures than regular wheel bearing grease. Get some gloves on and rub the grease in the bearings, rotating them around until they are packed, and then install the bearing. Once the bearing is in, spin it and push in some more grease, and then mount the hub.
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