I need some advice, I bought a car a while back and the steering was shot, and the car was lowered by heating the springs, no I am on a mission of restoring the car, I have rebuilt the front and rear end meaning,

Front:
New struts, and Moog Springs, New tierods (4), idler arm, steering box, Center link, Strut Bearings/bush, also the energy supspenion front lower control arms, swaybars bushings, end links, oh and new balljoints, all greased well and did the centerlink alignment adjustment. New inner/outer wheel bearings, adjusted to specs, new front pads,calipers, drilled and slotted rotors w/ceramic pads

Rear:
New shocks,spings and spring insulators, new energy suspention LCA, torque arm, and panrod bushings and end links

with all this replaced the front end seems loose on the freeway, like all over the road.

The ragjoint seems fine, but am looking on getting the intermediate shaft/rag joint from EBAY (new)

The car was aligned and no go, sway bars are 36 front and 24mm rear

hell everythings new and nothing is bent and nothing is cracked, like the frame, any advice

oh, the front right side upper strut mount is all the way to one side of the adjustment and the left is in the middle, but the alignment specs, are all green and normal.


???

might you frame be cracked were te steering box mounts? im guessing there is alot of flex in that area

Thanks for the advice, but as I said before, I have checked for stress cracks, or frame damage in general, and there is nothing, this is my 5th 3rd gen car and the first one I cant figure out. Does anyone have any feedback on the intermediate shafts on sale at e-bay, are they any good,??

Also my car does have the triangle frame braces at the front, and I did install a camaro wonder bar too, if this helps

I also did notice on the converts there is a bar at the top of the engine compartment going from the cowl to the strut bearings/bushings on both side that are missing, I fugure this is for the strut flex,but would it have anything thing to do with the wondering?

If one strut is adjusted all the way t one side & the other side is in the middle....The unibody MUST be bent somewhere. Invisible or not, something in the chassis is off.

A body shop shouldn't charge too much, for just a chassis alignment check. Although if it is already up there & hooked up, see what they would charge to straighten out, if it is off. Just get a printout of of all the before & after specs.

Thanks, I guess this weekend ill have it checked. the cars a pain in the ***, but will be worth it in the long run

me too man, my car pulls to the right, i rebuilt the steering box and p/s system, i adjusted the box perfectly, but still pulls. im going to replace the idler arm next. do i need an alignment after the idler arm swap? i already had an alignment after strut replacement, tie rods, bearings, etc

Well, you should ask for your money back from the place that did the alignment. Any decent shop is going to tell you that you have issues. Both sides should be symmetrical, or they should tell you whats wrong. If you go to another alignment shop (and I mean an Alignment shop, not some tire barn that doesn't know jack) and they fix the problem you have definite grounds for a refund from the first shop - even if they find damage and can't align it. The shop should have said there was a problem if it was there, that is why they are called an alignment shop. BTW, make sure your tires are at even pressures and even tread/wear - tires will effect alignment though they aren't part of it. (ie: the car should be aligned straight even if the tires make it pull)

As for the steering gearbox - if you didn't adjust the nut/shaft on the top of the box you will probably have issues, this directly effects steering! But do NOT arbitrarily mess with it as putting it to loose/tight will destroy your sector shaft(at least).

the alignment place i went to, used the in-fared system or whatever. however i noticed when the car was on the lift, he used on the obaord lift jack (not the lift but theres a jack on the lift) to raise the front k member enough to take the load off the front to make the adjustment, he didnt lower it and move it back and forth to see if the alignment was the same. The steering box i rebuilt is perfect, ( http://www.chevelles.com/techref/PowerStrgGear(4).jpg ) i used the torque values and theres no slop really. only thing i didnt change was the springs, idler arm, center link, sway bar, bushings control arms, im going to do that and get new tires. then ill get a real alignment and diagnose further. im leaning towards just and idler arm. btw i get what youre talking about the over center adjustment--i learned its input adjustments first, output adjustment second. easy to remember.