This is probably a dumb question, but I did a search, and couldn't confirm for certain. I'm replacing the tie rods, center link, and idler arm in my 87 Firebird. On the centerlink posts that attach to the idler arm and pitman arm, there were foam rubber rings. Are they supposed to stay on the centerlink when its installed, or not? I figure they are probably dust covers to keep crud from getting into moving parts, but they also kind of look like parts that could be there to protect parts in shipment.

My Haynes guide doesn't have install instructions, only torque specs, so I'm just guessing at this without confirmation from someone else.

 

Yes those foams things stay on. There are no rubber boots like on the tie rods and the foam things go in place of rubber boots.
You also need to adjust that center link.
Put a socket on the control arm bolt and a staright edge on the flat area on the bottom of the link. Measure the gap. Make both sides the same by moving the idler arm up or down.

 

Maby ive much too drank tonight but I could not follow that
pleasr elaborate

 

If you have been drinking then I certainly am not going to waste my time entertaining.
And if you're installing a center link just know that the foam seals stay on it and it should be adjust so its square with the rest of the car. It should be pretty self explainatory to most.

 

Before removing the idler arm, scribe around it with a pick so that you can put it exactly back in the same place, then there's no fiddling with measurements. Here's some advice from Sofakingdom that's good, I think:

"Easiest way to change the center link, is to change it, the tie rod ends, tie rod adjusting sleeves, and idler arm, all together as one unit. Odds are, if ANY ONE of those things needs changed, then all the rest have the same number of years, the same number of miles, the same number (or not ) of lube jobs, the same amount of wear, and so forth, and therefore are all in about the same condition. Not alot of sense in changing one part today, then next weekend change another, then the next weekend yet another, and so on; all the while suffering with a car that drives terrible and wears tires.

Scribe the frame around the idler arm's shaft first, so you can put the new one back on in the same spot. Take out the 2 idler arm bolts (especially since you now know how easy that is), the 2 tie rod nuts on the spindles, and the center link nut where it hooks to the Pitman arm. Se[arate the 3 joints, and remove all taht stuff as an assembly. Lay it on the ground. Assemble your new parts right next to it, adjusting the tie rods to the same length. Install as a unit. Drive to alignment shop."

You can rent a pickle fork and/or separator from AutoZone (I've never had a lot of luck with the pickle fork, but others seems to do well with them).

JamesC

 

Thanks for all the info. I tried to put the idler arm back where it had been when I swapped it out, but didn't realize getting things balanced as close as possible was critical. I'll take measurements and adjust it if need be. Thankfully, the engine/trans are out of the car right now, so getting to all these parts is pretty simple.

 

Its best to measure instead of scribing a line where the old one was. The simple reason being, what if it was not placed in there correct before. Its very easy to measure so why rely on what someone else did before.

 

If it weren't correct, the misalignment would lead to bump steer--and the driver would certainly be aware of that. Most have never been touched from the factory.

JamesC

 

No one can honestly say "most have never been touched". The latest of the third gens will be 18 years old. All new parts have gone into my 84 Z28 which had 54k on it when I got it in 97, my 91 and now my 89 with only 88k miles.
I can just as easily say most 18 year old cars will have a lot of miles and with that goes a lot of wear. That and when you go in for an alignment, techs like to upsell on parts so they make more money. Techs and the factory do not always do things correctly as well, just like most people.
Oh and many don't even know what bump steer is and just get used to it.

 

We'll have to agree to disagree.

JamesC

 

For sure,
Thats why either I or my brother only work on my car. I know it will be done right and not half-assed.

 

only real problem with scribing a line is that the new part may differ slightly from the original and the scribed line will be meaningless.

 

Not the only problem but one of them. Thats why I say measure. Its not hard and should not put anyone out. It may be easier than trying see look at a line you scratched into your paint. Also you can rest assured you know it was done right when you get finished.

 

what exactly are you measuring.