was to box my LCAs and go with a crossover-style SFC setup? would my front end feel 'slushy' in hard corners after i do all of those mods? I'm trying to figure out the best way to eliminate as much chassis-flex as possible..

thanks guys..
Colin

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Webmaster: www.IROC-Z.org

 

oh... i'll be designing my own strut tower brace.. (have access to a welder) but I dont want to make a 3 point because that entails welding to my firewall... would a really stiff 2 point work almost as good?

thanks again!

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Webmaster: www.IROC-Z.org

 

I too am designing my own strut tower brace, and I believe that a two point will be nearly as strong becaus from what I have seen the three point set-ups bolt to the firewall and I do not believe that is very substantial.
For the street, I believe that just about anything will be fine because you will not push the as hard as if you were on a racetrack.
I am planning on welding a flat plate to each end so I can bolt it to the strut tower though. So far the only material I have come up with for the pipe is 3/4" water pipe. I would rather use a little lighter pipe though, maybe I can find something at one of the local race shops.

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'84Z28/'92 305TPI
'92 complete rear suspension/PBR disc/Posi/3:42
Light weight 34.5mm stabilizer bar in front
23mm sta. bar in rear
rear lowered 1" by cutting 1 1/4 coils of '84Z28 springs
comp cam, flowmaster
TB coolantbypass/shutoff valve to heater core
MAT relocated
Ram-Air(home-made) gutted air-box
IROC ground effects/wheels GY245/50's
700R4 superior shift kit/ corvette servo(excellent shift kit BTW) Rebuilt engine and transplanted it myself. Love this engine!
LOW performance people should drive low performance vehicles!

 

i'm thinking of a boxed setup.. and i agree with you, i think that going with a 3 point is a little extreme... i just want to make sure that up front is going to be as tight as the rear... my brace will have brackets that bolt to my strut towers so i can just unbolt my strut tower brace if i need to... gotta love having access to a welder

 

Dont use plumbing for structural type things, it isnt made for it. Look in the yellow pages under steel or something. Tubing is not expensive for small projects. You can get 1" x 0.095 or 0.083 for less than $2/foot. It welds and bends much better and is a lot stronger than plumbing. Using the wrong materials is a waste of time IMHO. Also make some nice gussets where the tubing attaches to the plate, it will increase the strength about 2-3X.

 

hey merf.. i'll be using boxed steel for my SFCs and for my strut tower brace i'll be using tubular steel... what would be the best way to have it bent? Mandrel pressing puts those folds in it, right..?

 

I'm also thinking of welding up a strut tower brace. You guys need to go to Home Depot, right by the steel stock, they sell steel tubing, in a few different sizes & lengths. It's kind of expensive, but it's still much cheaper than buying a brace.

And I thought about that too, 2 point vs 3 point. I figure it like this- The 2 point's still going to make a difference. If it sucked, nobody would buy 'em.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
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