I'm swapping in a rear I built with 3.42s instead of 2.73s. I've never attempted this before. Any advice that could save a head ache would be welcome. EX. what should I do with the break lines after I disconnect it? Will it leak all over and drain my master cylendar? I have no clue. I do know not to let the driveshaft down too far. HELP!!

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89 Formula 305 TBI
Flowmaster, 1/2 in. spacer,lowered 3 in, 84' ram air, performer tbi intake,hypertech chip, ultimate TBI mods, gutted cat, 86' GTA rims, 245/55/16 ft, 255/50/16 rear

 

I'm not sure what you mean by "not letting the driveshaft down too far"...? The procedure for swapping a rear axle (or, rather, removing the rear axle and re-installing it) is in the Haynes 82-92 Camaro/Firebird manual.

Basically, you raise the car safely, and place it on jackstands so the rear axle is allowed to hang free. Place a hydraulic jack under the center of the axle, and raise the axle from a "hanging" position to a "midway" position- make sure the weight of the car is still on the rear jackstands. Remove the wheels/tires.

1. Remove the track bar & rear anti-sway-bar end-links.

2. Clean the transmission end of the driveshaft yolk with a rag & new trans fluid. Unbolt the driveshaft from the axle, use a pry bar to force it towards the transmission; catch the axle-end so the u-joints don't smack into the garage floor. Place a piece of wood between the u-joints & floor.

3. Unhook parking brake cables from adjuster. Snip rear body-to-brake hose in half- you really should buy a new one for "safety" reasons. Screw a bolt into the end of the cut hose, this will keep the master cylinder from draining.

4. Remove the lower shock-to-axle nuts; you might need a back-up wrench on the opposite side to keep the bolt from turning. Raise/lower the axle until you can "lightly tap" the lower shock bolts out of the axle. Lower the axle slowly with the jack until the springs can be removed- dont' let the axle "hang itself" on the lower shock bolts.

5. Remove the springs, they won't be under tension anymore. Unbolt the torque arm. Raise the axle up and put the wheels/tires back on.

6. Lower the axle so the tires touch the ground. Remove the jack from underneath the axle. Remove the rear lower-control-arm-to-axle bolt/nuts. Pull the axle away from the car and let it roll on the tires. Take pictures.

It's a cake job. It took me an hour or so to switch axle assemblies; most of my time was spent fighting the brakes- but I changed my whole brake system. If you're keeping the same style of rear brakes on your car, then you don't need to play with anything ahead of the rear axle (as long as you plug that brake line with a bolt). Keep a check on the master cylinder levels in BOTH reservoirs, too.

And of course make sure you bleed the rear brakes when you're done with the job.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
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