88irocz28

My IROC sits lower in the front than the back and I can't figure out if its the front springs that are worn or the struts. The suspension feels very solid on all 4 corners if I try to press the car or bounce it. In fact there is no bounce at all. But when I drive over railroad crossings or any place where there is a ridge about an inch high, the front end seems to dive a lot more than the rear as the car rolls off the edge of the ridge. Does this mean the springs are shot or is it the struts? I don't think worn out struts would affect ride height, or would they?

I need to know this because I plan on dropping the rear by an inch or so by cutting the rear springs. I don't have the cash for new springs so I'm just going the cheap way. If i screw up I'll end up buying a set of new springs anyway. What i don't want to do is get new struts AFTER cutting the rear springs only to find the front sitting at stock height again. Right now I don't know whether my front springs are stock or not. They could be different, because the car does have air shocks in the rear (Don't ask why, no air though).

Another thing and somebody please answer this one - can somebody give me a step by step guide to cutting springs properly? Any link or anything on the net that might be helpful? I know pretty much everything about it except how to flatten the spring where's it been cut to seat it properly. The only way I can think of is with a torch and that will damage the spring. I've been told that if it's not flattened to sit right, I might end up with a higher ride height than before.

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'88 IROC 305 TPI
Crappy 700R4 slushbox
Gutted airboxes
180 degree T-stat
Advanced base TPS voltage
Relocated IAT sensor
Momo steering wheel (gotta luv it)
Ram-air setup coming soon
Flowmaster muffler (puke)
Taylor SpiroPro wires
Accel cap and rotor
Kills: '94 Z28, Olds Aurora V8, bunch of Mustangs, T-birds, ricers, and others who assumed a 12 year-old car would be too slow.

88IROCARMY

You cut springs with a air grinder and a cut of disc or a chop saw. A torch will affect the springs structure and will ruin them.I wouldn't cut more than half a coil. FIRST check that they don't have a special end or pigtail on the ends of the springs. Both springs should be cut in the smae location(duh). I'm personally against cutting springs, our cars are already rough riding and this procedure will increase the roughness. I have a lowered and performance suspension equipped car and it can get rough.
Ohh have the spring in a vise if posible and don't allow the cutting wheel to bounce during cutting. As for the uneven stance could be mismatche shock strut comb. How many miles??? more 100K it might be time for replacement. Good luck

88irocz28

The front does sit a lot lower than other IROCs and Z28s. That's why it makes the rear look jacked up. I like the way it looks in the front, that's why I want to drop the rear also. What worries me it that the front suspension seems softer than the rear. Is it meant to be like that because of the weight dist. of the car?

As for miles, the speedo quit working before I bought it, so I really don't know. An educated guess would put it between 75 - 85k. I say this because the motor seems to be in perfect condition. No strange noises of any kind and virtually no oil consumption, except for a bad leak at the oil pressure sensor.

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'88 IROC 305 TPI
Crappy 700R4 slushbox
Gutted airboxes
180 degree T-stat
Advanced base TPS voltage
Relocated IAT sensor
Momo steering wheel (gotta luv it)
Ram-air setup coming soon
Flowmaster muffler (puke)
Taylor SpiroPro wires
Accel cap and rotor
Kills: '94 Z28, Olds Aurora V8, bunch of Mustangs, T-birds, ricers, and others who assumed a 12 year-old car would be too slow.

junkyarddog

'88,try tightening the TV cable on your slushbox 700r4.,best is to just save the cash and get a set of eibachs,why do all that work for stock springs?,struts and shocks can't affect hieght they only dampen.