I am thinking of replacing my struts this spring. How difficult is it? Do I need a strut compressor? What other special tools/parts will I need.

I am going to put Koni's in. When I had them installed on my 87. The guy resused to read the directions (after several requests) and almost destroyed the valve on one of them. Not willing to run that risk again. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

William


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91 Formula 305 TPI Stock
88 Formula 350 TPI Stock

 

couple of sockets and a wrench or two and one BFH. it's pretty easy job to do really, except getting the bolts out of the spindle.

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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd

 

Thanks. Do you know what sizes. I might have to go out and buy them.



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91 Formula 305 TPI Stock
88 Formula 350 TPI Stock

 

10mm, 17mm, 3/4", 20mm, 22mm, i think, but it's been a while since i've done it.

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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd

 

And there's a special tool for removing the upper mounting nut you might want to consider getting and using unless you have an impact wrench (you don't need it, just makes life easier). One side was seized on mine and after rounding off the nut I ended up having to mangle it off with a high-speed cutoff wheel. The tool was only a few bucks and it's a sort of socket within a socket.
You can compress the strut yourself. I did mine in about 4 hours, but I cleaned and painted everything and did the starter at the same time.

PS Have fun.

[This message has been edited by Jza (edited January 13, 2001).]

 

You can compress the strut yourself. I did mine in about 4 hours, but I cleaned and painted everything and did the starter at the same time.

The strut doesnt have to be compressed for installation or removal.

 

Put jackstands under the x-member, not the a-arms; use a jack under the a-arm to relive spring press. Put steering away from the side your changing and a 15/16" open end and a 15/16" impact socket works well (Metric?)


A good set of vise grips is the special tool of choice to keep the piston rod from spinning while loosening the upper bolt. One car i did was so rusted I had to use a cutoff wheel on the top bolt. Mount the bottom then position the dust cover BEFORE cutting the fiberglass strap otherwise it'll be a ballbuster compressine it. Hook up the brake line retainer and enjoy. You don't have to remove the rotor, but it might make it easier if the bolts are stubborn (probably) Put the nut back on before you are tempted to start bashing the hell out of it. Alignment is not needed unless the old strut was bent when the car was last aligned. Good Luck!

 

ya, that top bolt can be a real PITA, it took me and my big a$$ neighbor to get that thing undone, everything else went fine though

 

I was not aware that I would not have to get the car realigned. I thought there was an excentric adjustment where the bottom of the strut tower bolts into the spindle.

If this exists, from the above post is there a way to aviod disturbing it?



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91 Formula 305 TPI Stock
88 Formula 350 TPI Stock