Does anyone know of a resource online to identify these rearends. I just picked up one for nothing from a family member and would like to build this for my '92 Camaro!



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1992 Texas DPS B4C 1LE FE2 5.0/5spd:
Intake and Plenum Ported
Fully Ported Corvette Heads
TPIS Tricks ,No Smog Pump, NOS FI Fuel Pump
K&N's Adj. Fuel Pressure Regulator
Alston SFC's, Energy Supension Hyperflex system
MSD 6AL, SLP 1 3/4" SS Headers
3.73's with 275/55/16's out back...blew those now 2.73 one legger
My complete back seat
encompases my RF tunes...

Currie 9" on the way with 3.70 gears

Adam

 

Identify it in what way?

 

what kinda car it came from, gear raio, you know general stuff that i could figure out on my own, but i also want to learn more about these rear-ends

btw could someone delete my duplicate post?


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1992 Texas DPS B4C 1LE FE2 5.0/5spd:
Intake and Plenum Ported
Fully Ported Corvette Heads
TPIS Tricks ,No Smog Pump, NOS FI Fuel Pump
K&N's Adj. Fuel Pressure Regulator
Alston SFC's, Energy Supension Hyperflex system
MSD 6AL, SLP 1 3/4" SS Headers
3.73's with 275/55/16's out back...blew those now 2.73 one legger
My complete back seat
encompases my RF tunes...

Currie 9" on the way with 3.70 gears

Adam

 

There's about a 1000 different types of factory 9" diffs out there. The smaller ones were under early mustangs and the widest ones were under vans. They have been mounted with coil and leaf springs. They came with 28 and 31 spline axles. They came with gear ratios from the 2.xx to 4.xx.

If you have a factory housing the first thing you need to do is find out how wide it is. If it came from anything other that an early mustang/cougar then it will need to be narrowed to fit under a third gen. All the mounting hardware from the third gen diff will have to be transfered over to the 9" housing. If you don't plan on running ladder bars or a 4-link, a torque arm mount will need to be purchased to install the torque arm. Spline count on the axles will have to match the center section and if the diff is narrowed, shorter axles are needed. Left and right side axles are different lengths. Ford wheel bolt patterns are different from chev. Ford truck axles have a very large bolt pattern. You'll probably have to run ford brakes so replumbing brake lines is required.

When you look at all the work involved in adapting a factory 9" diff under a third gen, the $2000 price tag for a complete aftermarket bolt in diff becomes reasonable. If you have a center section with the gear ratio that you want, the price can come down a lot more. You just have to make sure the new axles are the same spline count as the center section.

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Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
454 Big Block almost ready for the 2001 racing season

Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP based on power to weight ratio: 476.5
Best 60 foot: 1.662

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley

 

I'm not sure where you get your negative attitude towards doing it yourself, but I'm sorry you're in a bad mood. I know currie sells all the brackets to convert a 9" into a third gen. I'm just trying to find some real in depth information from a Publication.

 

If you're lucky, the tag is still bolted to the center section. The digits on the bottom line identify the gear ratio and posi if it has one. It would say something like 3L50, indicating a 3.50 ratio and posi. If there's no "L", then it's open. The availabilty of narrow type rears isn't limited to only Mustangs and Cougars either. All early rears were narrow, such as '57 Fords, and are very popular for street rods and other cars that don't want to spend the money to narrow them.