is this a PITA? about how mutch does the set of springs cost? am a gonna screw the alighnment?

-Stell

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1988 IROC-Z 305TPI MINT!!
Mods= Accell SuperCoil, MSD 6A, Ported Plenum, No MAF Screans, K & N, SLP AirFoil,180 Thermostat+ Temp Switch, Relocated MAT, Cold Air. ,MSD Ignition wires and a few other misc goodies

1988 Pontiac Trans Am. 305 TPI Beyond MINT Condition. Dynomax Catback

 

PITA?- Can be.... Jack the front up as much as you can, support with stands under the frame. Remove wheel. Jack up the control arm about half of travel. Remove brake line from body, swaybar endlink, and nut from top of strut. This is the Dangerous Part...
With the control arm completely lowered, the spring MAY still have plenty of tension on it. If you have never done this before GET A SPRING COMPRESSER!
Installation is the reverse of removal....
This can be tricky for an inexperienced person, try to find someone who has done it before that can show you what to do. Or, as a last resort, email me and I'll gave you a detailed description on what to do.
(check with the guys at NE3G for someone close who can help)

Cost?- $200- $225 average

Alignment?- YUP, you will. Probably not bad enough to feel it, but your tires will suffer in the long run.

 

i am gonna do mine soon...

www.bmrfabrications.com has their springs on sale for $99.95...

i rented a sping compressor from autozone when i changed my A-Arms...

i used a floorjack and a set of jackstands...

one not when i put the springs back in i had to have someone sit on the hood for the extra weight to compress the springs enough to finish bolting everything back up...

later,
Chris

 

I didn't have any trouble doing the front springs, though the rear are easier.


I placed the car on stands, and stuck the jack under the control arm. I undid the lower part of the strut and slowly let the wheel down. It took a little tugging, but I got the spring out no problem. Since the new ones were a little shorter (1" drop), it wasn't too hard to get them back in either.

I jacked the lower control arm back up, and was done. The car needed alignment immediately. No springs shooting across the room either!

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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock with the exception of the Holley 750vac... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in...

-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

They're not too bad to change. I did mine myself on this car, and have done them on other cars too, much as the other posts describe.

I would recommend that if you go to all that trouble, put new ball joints, control arm bushings, and struts in it at the same time. Renew that whole part of the car. It makes a surprising amount of difference.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

You'll definitely want to do all of it, since any one job (most of them) requires removing the coil springs or control arm. This way you'll only have to do it once.

Most auto parts stores carry a spring compressor that you can rent, but the one I got was too long and hit the upper spring perch, so I had to cut a couple inches off of it (with Eibach Pro-Kit springs, not replacement springs; YMMV).

For me the hardest part was getting the control arm back into it's joint, but once I tried out the wonderous prybar, it was cake thereafter.

Rear springs take 10 - 15 minutes tops even for the complete idiot.