I rebuilt these things about a year ago before I stuck the 9-bolt into the car. One was bad when I got it, but I fixed it. It is the older style that ratchets the pads together when you pull on the hand brake.

Well, I haven't done it in a while (how often is it required?) because I have an automatic. It appears that I can pull the handbrake all the way up a few times and the car doesn't slow down when rolling in 1st.

Is this normal? I'm going to try parking on a slight hill, leave it in N, and see if the car rolls any. Any thoughts?

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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock with the exception of the Holley 750vac... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in...

-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

For best results, the handbrake should be applied every time you park the car.

Check <a href="http://www.isthq.com/~dan/1LEbrake.html#repair">here</a> for info on how to fix it permanently.

 

If you don't use the hand brake regularly, the rear caliper jack screws will gum up and not ratchet. Rather than take them apart, do this: Undo the cable adjuster. Clamp a visegrip on the e-brake counterweight. Now, look inside the hole on the outside of the caliper casting. Take a sturdy flat blade screwdriver and peel back the piston dust boot. Now, insert the screwdriver blade in the groove in the piston and pry the piston towards the rotor while jiggling the lever back and forth with the visegrips. This should free up the "ratchet" mechanism. Now readjust the handbrake lever cable so it comes on about 1/2 way up. I've never known the to actually be able to lock up the brakes when driving, but it beats putting a rock behind the wheel to keep from rolling downhill. After it's adjusted and working, use it or lose it!

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1985 Yellow IROC-Z 5.0 HO, T-5 3.73 Torsen, 4 wheel disks
PFCM pads, GTA wheels, Koni yellows, B&M Ripper, Dynomax

 

The guys are right. I have a 5-speed 85 IROC with rear discs. I use the handbrake VERY frequently, and I've never had difficulties.

JamesC

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