I can't get these freakin Iroc Wheels off the rear of my Firebird, its like they're welded on. can't pry on em they'll get mutilated. Whacked,kicked, and ranted. Then I loosed the lug nuts and drove it around the block, the most it will do is shift slightly back and forth on the studs with acceleration or brake. Anybody?

 

Keep spraying them with WD-40 for a week. Loosen the lug nuts and do some fast slaloms in an empty parking lot.

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1985 Yellow IROC-Z 5.0 HO, T-5 3.73 Torsen, 4 wheel disks
PFCM pads, GTA wheels, Koni yellows, B&M Ripper, Dynomax

 

Thanks eh. I took a more direct approach , gently caressing it with a wedged in four foot two by four. Prying on the rubber bit and rotating, it came off in a mere ten minutes and the WD helped. I think theres some sort of chemical reaction between the aluminum and the cast iron that causes a bonding corrosion. I wire brushed both surfaces and put on a light coat of bearing grease. Thanks again, tommorow I tackle the other wheel.

 

If you ever drove a toyota you would understand this. The aluminum and the steel stick together as with time. I had a a toyota 1/4 ton and the emergency brake lever in the backing plate was aluminum and the rest was steel. Didn't matter what you used, it always stuck and you had to get under it and beat on the lever to get the brakes off! USE ANTI SEIZE and lots of it HAHA.

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91 Z28 Camaro
305 TPI
Flowmaster 3" exhaust
700R4 with 2000 Stall and shift kit 3.42 rearend
Autometer shiftlight tach and B&M mega shifter
One sweet sounding system

 

Yeah, it sucks when dissimilar metals do that.