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Strut removal Question.

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Old Jun 27, 2001 | 10:42 AM
  #1  
91L98's Avatar
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From: Staten Island, NY
Strut removal Question.

Guys, will I be able to remove my struts without air tools?? I am about to change the struts but only have regular tools. Some people say I may not be able to do it. Need some advice. Thanks, Alex
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Old Jun 27, 2001 | 12:40 PM
  #2  
thunderstick's Avatar
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From: VA
Car: '91 Z28
Engine: L98 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 323's
As long as you have, or can get, a good breaker bar - a 1/2", not a 3/8". The bolts on the steering knuckle are the worse ones. Soak 'em with WD or something first...

KAM
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Old Jun 27, 2001 | 08:16 PM
  #3  
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Joined: Apr 2001
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From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
Another suggestion,

Use the Clench Wrench from Sears for the top of the strut shaft. I went to Autozone, Supertrak, etc., to find a special socket for them, but they said there was no such animal. Use the smallest Clench Wrench. Vise Grips will just crush the shaft and round it out. Trust me, I know. The second strut came off much easier by using that Clench Wrench. Learn from MY mistakes, like I do!

------------------
92 RS w/t-tops 305 TBI Auto.
170K miles and don't burn a drop o'oil
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air cleaner
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Old Jul 2, 2001 | 10:42 AM
  #4  
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Also rent a MacPherson strut spring compressor from a good auto parts store. It makes the job safer having the spring compressed already. It can't fly out and hurt you. Also using a floor jack will help as well. Here is a link to a tech article on doing the job. Good luck, Lon. http://www.sc3gfb.org/resources/springs.html

------------------
90 RS Convertible
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Old Jul 2, 2001 | 11:46 AM
  #5  
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From: This spot right here --->*
Car: 2002 SOM z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T-56
I guess my springs were shot because they didn't shoot out or anything. The aftermarket ones I put in (and plan to remove to cut another 1/2 coil off soon) were shorter and fit in with a little help.

One thing that I made sure to do... DO NOT remove that little cord thing that goes over the end of the strut and keeps it compressed UNTIL you have the bottom bolted on. Aim it towards the hole in the strut tower, cut the tape/cord thing, and FIRE! Actually, it doesn't shoot up really fast, just you'll never be able to compress it again if do cut that tape before you bolt it by the rotor...

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1984 z28 w/ a 357 cu in. monster engine which is looking like the posterchild for Edelbrock with the exception of the Holley 750vac... all the suspension stuff... 9-bolt posi disk is in...

-=ICON Motorsports=-
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Old Jul 2, 2001 | 06:21 PM
  #6  
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From: Union City, CA
Guys, we have Third gens, they dont have coil over setups, and therefore wouldn't need a spring compressor to safely take the spring out. Do this man, hella simple:

Make sure you got jackstands and atleast one jack. Jack up the front and make sure its supported. Take off the wheels. Remove the swaybar endlinks if you have any, hehe. Anyhow, place a jack under the a-arm near the rotor in a secure position and go ahead and jack it up so the a-arm comes up about an inch. Open the hood and pop the strut bolt caps off with a flat head screwdriver. Then use pliers and a vice grip, or two vice grips, or two pliers, whatever you choose. Use one to hold the stud of the strut, and the other to loosen the bolt. It's not too hard to get those off since they arent under pressure or torque. Now the tricky part, watch from the fender as you slowly lower the jack, guide the strut down and make sure you watch the brake lines. There isn't gonna be any springs or anything flying as long as you keep the jack under the a-arm. The spring fully extends before the spindle has even come all the way down. Anyhow, once it's done, do what you gotta do. Oh, and if the spring comes out of its seat, make sure you seat it properly before you put the assembly back in. Good luck!

------------------
85 2.8L Sport Coupe 5-speed.
Mods: Hpertech chip and powerstat, MSD 6A-L, Crane fireball coil, Accel Cap and Rotor, Dynomax hi-flow cat and catback system with a dynomax magnum race bullet muffler on the i-pipe, K&N filterchargers, Gutted Air Boxes, 8mm Wires, Eibach Sportlines and Tokiko springs/shocks setup, Global west sub frames, Suspension techniqs front and rear sway bars, and good ole 88 IROC wheels with Kumo Ecstas on em!
"It's not the ricers, it's those damn V8's!"

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Old Jul 2, 2001 | 10:25 PM
  #7  
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From: macomb Il
thank you so much. i wasnt sure on how to do this also, now i am gonna try. thanks for being so descriptive guys, and thanks 91L98 for making the post.

------------------
Jarrad
1990 IROC-Z L98 350 TPI
TH-700R4
G92- 9 Bolt Borg-Warner 3.27gears
Bright Red Hardtop/ Grey Interior


DAILY DRIVER: 1991 GREY S10 2.5L/5SPD -FOR SALE.
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