I am going to put on new wheels tomorrow and I need to know how much to torque them to.

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yellow 86 Camaro
LG4 700R4
Pioneer head unit
Kenwood speakers
Infinity Beta Digital 300 amp
2 Infinity Perfect 12s

Now KYB equipped!!

 

I think with aluminum wheels, is something like 80Ib/fts. Someone jump in if I am wrong.

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1989 IROC-Z 5.7L
NOS 5151 150HP kit
ProBuilt 700R4, PI Vigilante 2800 stall lockup
Baer Brakes 12" Sport System

 

anyone else know for sure?

 

75 #/ft factory spec.

 

80 ft. lbs is the spec in the owner's manual.

 

80 ft/lb.

 

Always put mine at 100 and haven't had a problem. Most information calls for 80.


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350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkin bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, current red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro

 

I too have always torqued them to 100ft. lbs.

The owners manual for my '91 (with 16" aluminum wheels) states, for both early and late 1991 models to torque the nuts to 100ft. lbs.

But then the GM service manual says 81 foot pounds.

All these years I've been tightening them to 100ft/lbs . I believe the service manual over the owners manual, so I'm going to start tightening them to 81ft/lbs. now though.

 

100 ft-lb is very common for aluminum wheels with the acorn style lug nuts.

 

I've seen 80 ft lbs for steel rims and 90 ft lbs for aluminum. Anywhere in the 80 to 100 range is probably fine though. The exact value is probably less important than just having them torqued the same.

 

well I torqued them all to 80 ft lbs. I'll check them again in 500 miles or so and maybe bring it up to 100.

 

When you go from 80 to 100, I'll bet the nut will move very little.

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350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkin bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, current red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro

 

That's due to stiction. I always try to make sure that I don't sneak up on the correct torque. i.e. that I am at least 20-30 ft lbs away so that I am going to be moving as the torque wrench clicks.

 

23year old thread....

 

Still useful information. Timeless almost.

 

I like to tighten them by hand until I feel I have just slightly exceeded the elastic limit then back off a quarter turn out of shame.